I might be among the first

NavyVet83

NavyVet83

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So I'm building a second upper for my primary duty carbine. I'm doing a 11.5" Rosco Bloodline barrel, and topping it with a 6.15" XM177 flash hider from www.Charlie'scustomclones.com. I'm gonna pin/weld it to make it a legal carbine length. Covering it with a OdinWorks Rune 12.4" free floated handguard. And finishing it off with some Troy Flip Up Battle sights. Problem is, I cant find any pictures of a free floated handguard over a xm177 flash hider online. Will I be the first or at least among the first? I'm sure it'll be a interesting setup but damn...
 
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I'm about to put a 6" KAK flash hider( looks very similar to the xm177) on my 10.5". Curious, are you going to pin and weld it yourself? Didn't think I would like it but it looks good on the pistol soon to be rifle.

I ordered some 3mm SS pins that I hope will work. It appears they can be attached with pin and can use 1100 degree silver solder. I'm not sure how difficult it will be.
 
Yes. I'm doing it myself. Im a 21 year Master Automotive Technician So I have all the tools/equip needed to do it myself. I'm actually planning to thread the hole on the flash hider with a tap, then thread a small screw into it, and tac-weld over it. Make it easier to remove later yet still legally "pinned/welded".

The Silver Solder way works well. I've seen others do it. Just make sure your soldering gun gets hot enough or use a small "mini torch". Whichever route you go will work fine. Just don't burn your fingertips off. Lol
 
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So the idea here is to install the flash hider as one normally would. Then thread the screw into it slightly cutting into the threads of the barrel. Once it's secure, cut off the excess screw with a cutting wheel, sand/grind it down flush with a Flapper wheel, then put a tac-weld over it. I'll take pictures of the whole process. But if someone with more knowledge of how it supposed to be done or reasoning why I shouldn't do it like this, please chime in
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Interesting approach. Think the rule is 1250°+ on solder. Which ia basically silver. Plumbers solder- watersafe lead free silver solder is around 475° -550°. With a harden pin - ? Capable of withstanding 180 ft lbs +..?? May be off of torque spec, but its ALOT. Seen 1 that they " tested" and they rung off the threads- sent back saying it passed. Dicks.

Ive just drilled dimple pass depth of threads a 32nd + in barrel, used a broken drill bit and mig welded a spot over the 2/ FH & Pin. To remove dremel or die grinder the blob and wa laa it off.
If you dont turn up the heat on welder and FH is cold/ room temp. It harden steel so min penetration. Couple Ive removed to swap FH were maybe 1/16 deep on weld. Min damage to FH and pin fell out after weld removal.
Practice on a axle or spindle. Not trying to crap on your idea, I like it, but those guys just dont play.
Love the XM FH and that Odin handguard should LOOK AWESOME!!! Can't wait to see it together.

This is the 2nd time this FH has been installed, done with flux core wire. Lil pocky lol but it permanent. I filed it flat thinking I would change it again. Drill out this time, then weld in pocket.
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Some parts came in tonight. Kind of test fitted it tonight just to see how far the flash hider will protrude from the handguard.
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Not turning out horrible. Everything is mocked up for right now. Bring the upper to work with me Tuesday, to pin/weld the flash hider. Definitely gotta get the rattle can and make it match my lower, but it's pretty light. I think I'll be happy with it.
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So I got it assembled. I ran some rounds through it in the back yard and it feeds really rough. To the point that it'll jam up the charging handle on occasion. I used some steel mags, Magpul p mags and a Troy Battle mag. Same issue matter what. It looks like the ramps are lining up correctly, but any suggestions/knowledge. Yes I know I need to clean it now. I'll do that Tuesday once the flash hider is pinned and welded
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would be greatly appreciated
 
Is that metal shavens? Did you oil it?
Its on a proven lower? 1 that works well different upper.
 
Yes, that is shavings from the ammo. It's oiled for surem if anything, it's to wet. The lower is a 80% I built several years ago and have had at least 5 different uppers on I can think of/remember. When you try to rack a round and it jams up, you can look in and see the tip of the round is on the feed ramp in what appears to be a correct manner/angle.
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I'm thinking Tuesday while I have it at work, I'll take a Dremel to the ramps and smooth em out a bit and maybe widen em them just a cunt-hair. Unless there is a reason I shouldn't? I've never had this issue before. Even with the cheap BCA upper that sits in my closet.....
 
Thank you sir. After watching this, I pulled my upper out, and check it as instructed. Definitely a pretty good bit of overhang. I'm take care of this Tuesday exactly as instructed in hopes that it fixes my issue.
 
Definitely need to polish up the feed ramp issue. If you dont have issues with that lower Id say no chance of mag being out of alignment or too w/e. Most likely sharp edge catching the brass and creating issues.
 
So I drove the screw into the barrel carefully so I went into the thread but not through the barrel with the self tapping screw, then sanded down the head so that it's almost flush with the barrel. Once I get all these cars out the shop for the day, I'll clean it up and tac-weld over the "pin". And wa la, permanently attached and a legal 16.15" barrel. I'm not to happy about using 2 crush washers, but the way it would clock when tightening down on just the one, I just couldn't get it to line up correctly. Using two, I was able to get proper torque spec and lined up perfectly. I figure between torque and the pin/weld, it's not going anywhere. Lol. Besides, I'm setting this thing up to train with and beat on, not look pretty in a show/safe
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Damn, my barrel is 10.5". If you only got 16.15" from a 11.5 i'm going to have to go another route.
 
It's welded. I left it ugly on purpose in case some letter boy has a issue. Lol. I know it's not the right way to measure it, but it gives a good idea of barrel length. I may have been off. Might be a little longer... I'll double check once I assemble it. I know it's cringefully ugly. I'm doing so on purpose I plan to beat the snot out of this thing doing classes, so it's gonna get pretty nasty anyway.

Kind of using PGR as a for sure way to save documentation showing it was actually "permanently attached" as well. I hope it's ok Racer!
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