DIY conversion from pistol to carbine

mcmatty

Active member
Exchange Privileges
Joined
Dec 11, 2022
Messages
101
Reaction score
114
Points
43
Location
Pacific Northwest
So I've been exploring the "add a brace/stock to a Glock" genre and haven't really been satisfied with what I see out in the market. Like everything else, each company's iteration has its own set of pros/cons. My main gripe is that they are usually specific to one gun and to use them on other pistols and calibers you had to buy a whole different system. Mostly, I was motivated to find something that would work with a PF45. About the only thing I could find was the Mechtech.com system and the thing is super-duper heavy. The Roni-type and Meta tactical systems that engulf the pistol are all ugly plastic nightmares (IMHO) and interfere with some aspects of the slide (optics, suppressor-height sights, etc.). I purchased a Recover Tactical system (with shoulder stock add-on) for my PF940C, because they are fairly cheap. I added a 16" Meta Tactical barrel to keep it legal for adding a stock. The Recover Tactical setup is pretty good, but it rubs against my Holosun leading to poor groups out past 50 yards, so I'm going to have to do some sanding. Plus, that didn't solve my PF45 problem, so I decided to build my own PCC conversion. This is what I came up with......
20221218_133403.jpg

20221218_133208.jpg

20221218_133237.jpg

20221218_133223.jpg


I need to get a plug to cover the hole at the end of the 30mm carbon fiber tube (above) as I do for the 1" (25mm) tube (below). It gives it a more finished (i.e. less ghetto) look. You'll notice that the 30mm tube that holds the stock offsets to the left of the pistol. I thought I would have to cut it and use another ring setup to bring it back behind the gun. Much to my delight, the setup shoulders perfectly where it is and makes for a great cheek weld and sight picture (iron sights or red dot). Also, I was surprised to learn that the diameter of a buffer tube is almost 30mm, so the lightweight minimalist type of stocks can easily be modified to fit.

20221218_133322.jpg
20221218_133306.jpg
20221218_133216.jpg

20221218_133253.jpg

Notice the two QD scope rings that attach the 1" carbon fiber rod to the pistol's pic-rail. The farthest one out from the trigger guard doesn't actually sit in a pic. slot, but does clamp the rail (see above and below). I set it up this way so that on my PF45, which has a longer pic-rail, it will have both rings running within the slots. This allows me to switch the system between guns without moving the scope rings. On both pistols, I wanted the 1" tube to butt up against the front of the trigger guard for added rigidity. It's hard to see that above with all of the black-on-black. I have a 10mm barrel on backorder with Meta Tactical.
20221218_133804.jpg


The front pic-rail works great for a light or a bipod. Below are some pics with it somewhat disassembled. The only connection to the pistol is at its pic-rail, so it's really quick to put on and clamp down with the QD screws. I was worried that the 30mm tube would make accessing the mag release and the slide release difficult. It doesn't if you train to use your off-hand to.... pull the loaded front mag out as you come off of the foregrip, hit the mag release, insert the fresh mag, and then activate the slide release (like hitting the bolt release on an AR). Your firing grip (right hand) and the stock (at the shoulder) can stay in place the entire time.

The whole setup is much more rigid than I thought it would be and is more stable than my Recover Tactical unit. The only flex I can induce is in the PF940C frame itself. If I really pull the thing into my body with maximum tension (like trying to make an offhand 100 yard shot with an AR), I can induce some flex just above where the front of the trigger guard meets the frame of the pistol. That fact is concerning, as I don't want to damage my frame or induce a stoppage during firing. I haven't shot this yet, so I'll have more on that later.
20221218_165909.jpg
20221218_165816.jpg
20221218_133527.jpg


The front magazine holder/vertical grip unit is from Recover Tactical. Meta Tactical makes something similar for 10mm Glock mags.
20221218_133622.jpg


My whole intent was to explore what's possible with a very lightweight system (see below). You sure as hell won't be battering someone in the head with the buttstock, but who knows...... having something like this in a backpack sure might significantly extend the capabilities of someone whose only weapon on-hand is a pistol. If you had an extra slide with the 16" barrel already installed, one could probably field strip the slide off of a sidearm and have this out of a pack and installed in under 30 seconds. Anyway, just a range-toy and tinkering project for now.
20221218_133151.jpg


This (above) is the total weight (pistol included) with the light (not bipod) installed and without magazines. I'm sure there's a way to design this to fold or telescope, but that will likely induce some flex. Also, a trigger cover/holster will be a necessary safety item to add.

Cost wasn't really the main goal here but money always matters. If it weren't for the barrel, this would be an inexpensive endeavor, but then it wouldn't be legal without a tax stamp because it would be an SBR. If I wanted to SBR it, I would go with a threaded barrel and add either a fake suppressor or a long blast can to keep the forward hand safer. It would make for a nifty compact unit. The various rings, carbon-fiber tubes, and end plugs are all from Amazon and come to about $100. The front grip from Recover tactical seemed expensive at $50 and the ones from Meta Tactical are the same price. I think the stock was about $30 - $40.

My accuracy goal for this project isn't stringent. Since the barrel isn't fixed and the optic isn't magnified I would hope that I can get 4-6 moa out of it, which at 50 and 100 yards is much better than I can shoot with a pistol, but I won't know until I get it to the range over the next couple of weeks. I'll post an update then. Please let me know if you have any suggestions.
 
Last edited:
This got my attention quickly, as I don't want anything that even smells illegal on the forum. So, I did a quick search. As long as the barrel is 16" AND the overall length is at least 26 inches.... it's legal. Not an NFA item.

1671417376780.png

Also this:
 
Very creative. Nice first step into the concept, I would also be concerned about the stresses induced into the front dust-cover area (pic-rail). I had a similar interest some time ago, wasn't a huge fan of the AR platform or the cost of a 10mm PCC variant, but definitely wanted a 10mm carbine. I liked the MechTech model, despite the weight of it. It is a solid, durable option, very cost-effective too (it comes with that 16-inch barrel!) when compared with the components necessary to constructing an alternative. Pat of the MechTech's weight is their use of barrel-blanks outer-diameter made for their largest caliber (45 ACP at the time), even when rifled for smaller cartridges (making for instance the 9mm barrels VERY thick-walled). Turning them down in a lathe would reduce that weight, or milling flutes into the barrel, just as a thought.
The MechTech has some other draw-backs besides just the lump-o-granite weight -for one, it has no manual safety (neither does a Glock though), and much worse, it isn't "Drop Safe". I considered machining in the componentry necessary to duplicate Glock's Striker Safety Plunger setup, but have so far opted to leave it unmolested in hopes of retaining a higher degree of reliability.

I think you have gotten some good steam on this one -I would be cautious about a folding design, particularly since it would likely function folded and there are regs on that *(aah, @Racer88 replied on that while I was typing, good show!)- and perhaps if you included a bracing back into the grip's back-strap cavity, it would be rigid enough not to endanger the frame's nose? Looking forward to seeing more here...
 
As configured, I'm at exactly 31". So, I think I'm OK as far as the verbose gobbly-gook of the ATF / NFA / DEA / FBI / IRS / NSA goes........man! Our government is so damn bloated.

GSW10, I share your concern about the stress at the front Picatinny rail/frame nose. The set-up of the carbon-fiber tubes is incredibly rigid. I noticed that if I concentrate all of the stress between the foregrip on the 1" tube and my shoulder, there isn't any flex at the pistol frame. If go with a lighter grip with my right hand and just focus on a good trigger pull, there is no stress on the frame. Doing that doesn't actually feel odd, it's just more relaxed than when I hold a pistol in a typical two-handed, thumbs-forward grip. Now, that observation of decreased frame stress is being made during dry fire. Live fire might change the equation. I may try to get a buddy to film me shooting it and see if we can slow down the frame rate enough to observe any flex in the polymer.

One way to telescope this without inducing more weakness/flex would be to have the ring at the front of the 30mm tube loosen to let the tube slide forward, but you'd have to come up with a quicker and more user-friendly way of loosening and tightening the scope ring allen screws. This also wouldn't fix the "fire while folded" issue.
 
This got my attention quickly, as I don't want anything that even smells illegal on the forum. So, I did a quick search. As long as the barrel is 16" AND the overall length is at least 26 inches.... it's legal. Not an NFA item.

View attachment 8056
Also this:
With my last post, I didn't acknowledge the time you had to spend to do that, sorry. I was aware this is a "walking near the edge" project, but I did my homework prior and your homework seems to confirm it. Thanks.
 
As long as the barrel is 16" AND ...
As configured, I'm at exactly 31". So, I think I'm OK

Not to harp at you, make sure your barrel is 16" minimum too - review the rules as if you have a removable flash hider then I think they consider length without the hider installed.
 
Not to harp at you, make sure your barrel is 16" minimum too - review the rules as if you have a removable flash hider then I think they consider length without the hider installed.
Correct, needs to be pinned or welded in order to be counted towards lengths.
 
16" without the flash hider - dowel dropped down to the bolt face, marked and measured.
 
GSW10,
Too bad I can't find a 16" barrel for the only steel frame pistol I own (CZ75 SP-01) A steel frame would take the frame-flex problem out of the equation. I don't actually own Glock OEM frames. Are they more rigid than the Polymer80s (i.e. be better suited for this project)?
 
Last edited:
I don't actually own Glock OEM frames. Are they more rigid than the Polymer80s (i.e. be better suited for this project)?
Stronger, yes, slightly. A little more flexible, a little less stiff, not sure which I would consider more 'rigid', as I think of that term. But even OEM Glock would not offer sufficient strength for any use beyond delicately-handled range-toy, IMO. Essentially, I would be worried about a Polymer 80 nose breaking off -but I would be concerned about a Glock Gen 3+ frame flexing enough to hamper RSA function and reliable cycling -something you already touched on. There is just too much leverage at the end of that shoulder-stock without at least one more point of contact to the frame. But I still feel you could successfully 'plug in' to the back-strap cavity in the grip with your design, and have a pretty reliable and light-weight carbine.
 
I still feel you could successfully 'plug in' to the back-strap cavity in the grip with your design, and have a pretty reliable and light-weight carbine.
I agree. It's a play off of the Endo adapter....
1671542545005.png

I actually bought one of those and tried to dremmel it to fit the PF45.......an exercise in frustration. I was able to get the grip plug portion to fit, but the backstrap connection proved to be my downfall. That one ended up in the trash. Bought another one on sale for $20 and may try it again or somehow incorporate it into this project to solve the problem in the manner you describe. Preferrably, I want to make a viable system with "off the shelf" parts that are easily obtainable from Amazon or similiar supplier.

As it stands, to get to the grip plug area I'll need to drop down from the 30mm tube in a way that won't interfere with my grip or with dropping the mag. There are lots of little turns and angles to make that happen. I'll be rolling this one around in my head for awhile.

Another thought was to have the first connection to the pistol be a picatinny riser (then attach the 1" scope rings to that). I might be able to design a rigid part that connects to the pic-riser and extends back along the right side of the pistol (no controls there except take-down) to rest under the beavertail - something that would comfortably sandwich between the hand and the beaver tail to provide counter-leverage to the force on the front of the pistol. The interaction between the shooters hand and the beaver tail part would be less critical than it is when shooting a pistol in the "non-braced" way, but it would obviously need to be unobtrusive and comfortable. Also, if that right side "rigidity strap" were adjustable up at the picatinny riser (front to back), you would preserve the ability to easily adapt to pistols of different lengths.

This project isn't really about designing something I would use in a real-world situation because it doesn't take much time to pull an AR upper and lower out of a backpack and put them together. I've never really felt PCCs were necessary and the Glock-to-carbine sub-genre always seemed somewhat silly and kind-of "mall-ninja-ish" to me. Having said that (and probably offended a few - sorry), there is something attractive about taking a 25 yard platform (max reliable distance under stress for my current skillset) and extending it to 50 or 100 yards. This is more about the process than it is the outcome.

Sorry my posts are so verbose. I apparently like to hear myself talk (type).
 
Last edited:
Another thought is to come right off of the 30mm tube to the beaver tail area and come up with some sort of clamp that will interact comfortably with the hand and not alter the firing grip too much.
 
If you zoom in on the 8th picture in my original post, you'll see that the 30mm tube seems to line up perfectly with the trigger housing pin. I wonder if that's a viable anchor point or am I asking for trouble?
 
If you zoom in on the 8th picture in my original post, you'll see that the 30mm tube seems to line up perfectly with the trigger housing pin. I wonder if that's a viable anchor point or am I asking for trouble?
:unsure:Hmm, that has me briefly thinking about specialty Pins for Trigger and Locking Block that have threaded ends, capable of interfacing with a small plate which in turn would attach to your side-mounted tube. ("Sidewinder"?;)) That would definitely take this out of the off-the-shelf parts range though. Easier and cheaper to have some replaceable model-specific back-strap inserts (I made one for a G26/G33 Sub-Compact to 'lock' in a Pachmayer magazine-sleeve to extend the grip, out of a 1/4" piece of acrylic scrap -worked fine) attach to some 'dog-leg' bracket, I would think.

As a note, I actually am fine with PCCs, I have had a 9mm PCC for a long time and find it effective, similar to a .223 carbine in performance and shootability, and I always liked the idea of ammo interchangeability between 'rifle' and pistol, but never cared much for the pistol 'conversion' accessories either, though I am warming to them a little -so we are on that same page... But I also have an interest in, 'how would you make this work?' puzzles like this, glad you brought this up.
 
I'm liking the backstrap &/or trigger pin route. The grip plug would totally work from a stability standpoint, but there are so many more angles to deal with going that way. Every additional connection and turn would introduce weakness into the system and also add bulk.

It might be time to pull out the heat gun and order some thick sheets of Kydex 👷‍♂️🧰🛠️☢️.
 
Last edited:
:unsure:Hmm, that has me briefly thinking about specialty Pins for Trigger and Locking Block that have threaded ends, capable of interfacing with a small plate which in turn would attach to your side-mounted tube. ("Sidewinder"?;)) That would definitely take this out of the off-the-shelf parts range though. Easier and cheaper to have some replaceable model-specific back-strap inserts (I made one for a G26/G33 Sub-Compact to 'lock' in a Pachmayer magazine-sleeve to extend the grip, out of a 1/4" piece of acrylic scrap -worked fine) attach to some 'dog-leg' bracket, I would think.

As a note, I actually am fine with PCCs, I have had a 9mm PCC for a long time and find it effective, similar to a .223 carbine in performance and shootability, and I always liked the idea of ammo interchangeability between 'rifle' and pistol, but never cared much for the pistol 'conversion' accessories either, though I am warming to them a little -so we are on that same page... But I also have an interest in, 'how would you make this work?' puzzles like this, glad you brought this up.
Toying with this idea now.....
(Bear with me, it's a bit verbose.)

A straight rod coming off of the 30mm stock tube that extends out and under the beavertail (see red dot below), would counter any downward force on the pistol grip that would induce stress on the front of the frame (see red X below). As of now, I don't see another way to provide a "brace" against flexing the front of the gun without getting complicated and having something wrap around the grip, insert through the trigger pin hole, or attach to the grip plug area. This rod wouldn't protect against upward pressure, only downward pressure (on the pistol grip). When you pull the stock into the shoulder (left hand pulling back on front grip), you would need to push down (not pull up) on the pistol grip with your right hand as you bring your right elbow into your torso to tighten your grip on the rifle (see red arrow below). Without this rod, the area of maximum frame flex (the fulcrum) occurs where the pic-rail meets the front of the trigger guard (see red X below). A rod extending from the 30mm stock tube under the beaver tail would essentially create a rigid square that would negate this downward flex (see second pic). Obviously, the "rod" would need to be shaped or wrapped to make it comfortable in the webspace of the hand.
20221218_133253.jpg

20221218_133237.jpg

I'm imagining this item (below) clamped to the 30mm tube (lower right-hand corner of the yellow rectangle above) with the tightening screw being long (& strong) enough to serve as the "rod" ("that's what she said").
1671763085557.png


As I alluded to in a previous post, I won't be using this "PCC conversion" to storm the beaches of any future Normandy. I just want a way to take a 25-yard platform to 50 or 100 yards in an easily deployable, lightweight, and "recoil hardy" manner. Not sure if this is it or not, but the wheels keep churning.
 
Last edited:
Range Update......

This will be a long post. I'm mostly using this to journal and organize my thoughts. I don't really expect that anyone will want to read all this crap.

I took a quick trip to the range yesterday morning - quick because it was Christmas Eve and, well, you know, family stuff. Anyway, it was enough time to learn a couple of things.

Primarily, the concern about the single point of contact (two scope rings between the pistol and brace unit) at the front rail is warranted, but what I ran into wasn't what I necessarily expected.

I started out firing the unit with most of the pressure on the 30mm tube (pulling into my shoulder with my left hand on the foregrip. My right hand merely stabilized the pistol (not gripping nearly as firmly as you would firing an unbraced pistol) and provided a smooth trigger pull. This seemed to work very well. I was getting 1" groups at 25 yards off-hand and a few same-hole shots with the bipod off the bench. I was working on re-zeroing my pistol optic with this unit (more on that below) when I suddenly started getting rapid double taps.

It turns out that the rear scope ring (the one closest to the trigger guard) came loose from the 1"tube (holds the foregrip & light/bipod) causing the pistol to slide back toward the shooter along the 1" tube (or the tube to move away from the shooter). The rear scope ring was still attached to the pistol, but the front one (the one that didn't have a lug engaged - see pics below) came off of the pistol. So, now there was only one scope ring attaching the unit to the pistol and there was obviously play between it and the 1" tube - the main point of contact between the pistol and brace unit.
1671990096528.png
1671989989615.png

The instability caused by all of this was likely allowing the excessive flex that GSW10 and I have been pondering above. That, in turn, was altering the slide's interaction with the rails and ultimately, the sear's interaction with the firing pin assembly.

Now, one may be tempted to say that if I solve the "detachment" problem (better rings, epoxy between ring and tube, etc...), I'm back at a brace unit that was functioning pretty well. That might very well be the case, but I had those rings cranked down to the max. What this first test confirms is just how much force is being focused at the pistol's pic-rail. My hypothesis is that by gripping the pistol more loosely, I was avoiding frame-flex due to the shooter's pressure on the unit, but I was allowing more of the force of the pistol firing and recoiling to be transmitted to the attachment point and THAT was inducing the frame-flex that resulted in double-taps.

So, where do I go from here? I now more firmly believe that my idea of a rod coming off the 30mm tube and resting under the beavertail will work. It will allow the shooter to firmly grip the pistol (avoid frame flex from firing/recoil) and place downward pressure on the rear of the pistol to level it with the front pic-rail attachment. The beavertail bar will also limit the extent of that downward pressure (avoid frame flex from the shooter's grip) by completing the rectangle formed by pistol/1" tube, scope rings from 1" tube to 30mm tube, 30mm tube itself, and the beavertail bar (see yellow rectangle below).
1671990895738.png


What I don't know is if I need the rod to attach to the beavertail somehow or if I can come up with something free-floating but rigid enough to just sit against it and then be a stable "stop" against the downward pull of the beavertail (during gripping and firing). The distance between the 30mm tube and the beavertail is pretty short, but there will still be a leaver-arm effect that might overcome any clamp-on way of attaching it to the 30mm tube. I might have to drill through the tube, but now I'm removing the ability to easily adapt the unit to pistols of different sizes. I guess I could drill a hole to correspond to each pistol I might use with the system.


Just a note on sights.....

This is an obvious fact for rifles that, for some reason, didn't migrate over to my thought process on pistols. When I took the standard-length pistol barrel out of the slide and replaced it with the 16" barrel, the POI had significantly shifted (duh!). So, hypothetically, If carrying your 10mm through the woods as a side arm you then decide to do a little hunting, you're not going pull out your 16" barrel, stick it in your slide, mount the brace, and have an accurate optic. If you want a longer barrel and an accurate optic, you need a dedicated slide/optic combo for that barrel.
1671989864541.png

Seems obvious, but I hadn't thought of that. It would negate a bit of weight savings of a packable unit. In a lawless environment, if you just wanted the increased capability provided by the brace, but weren't looking for an increase in muzzle velocity (or didn't want the decreased maneuverability of a 16" barrel), just adding a barrel extension (faux suppressor, 6" flash hider, etc) to a threaded barrel would be enough to provide additional safety to your hand on the foregrip. You would only need to carry the brace and muzzle device.

That's all for now. Merry Christmas!
1671988301569.png
 
Last edited:
Project update......

I think I'm actually nearing the finish line on this thing. I added the carbon fiber bicycle seat post clamp (see posts above) and it seems to work perfectly. It eliminates all flex at the pic-rail of the pistol frame when I shoulder the unit and grip the pistol firmly. See my pics below.....
20230113_211818.jpg

20230113_211828.jpg

20230113_211843.jpg


I wrapped it in some rubber tape that molds to itself and it is comfortable when gripping the pistol. I'll see how it feels when I take it to the range tomorrow.

20230113_212615.jpg


I made another improvement by adding a quick-release pic-riser between the 30mm tube's connection to the 1-inch tube. This allows me to detach the stock (30mm tube) quickly, move it forward, and reattach it further back on the 30mm tube to shorten the overall unit for storage.

20230113_212805.jpg

20230113_212924.jpg

20230113_212004.jpg

20230113_212932.jpg

20230113_212727.jpg


I'll post an update after I take it to the range tomorrow.
 
Cool. Glad to see you stuck with this. I am surprised you don't find any side-to-side frame distortion, since there is still little lateral support, but likely there are less forces in that plane and the front dust-cover is clearly more rigid against side-forces than vertical... Looking forward to your Range Report.
 
Back
Top