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"Sol-ved!" (in the voice of Inspector Clouseau)
Help! Patriot80Builder's troubleshooting thread.
- Thread starter Patriotp80builder
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@James Moore posted the correct way to fit the rear rails to your frame.
Most rear rails need to be worked on to get them to fit into the frame correctly. I had to clean up and sand most rear rails in all of the different builds I did over the years. Sometimes you get lucky and the rear rails fit without having to work on them.
One should never egg out or make the frame holes bigger in order to install the rails.
And yes you can get a bad rear rail where the rail portions are not bent correctly. That can be fixed if you are careful.
Most rear rails need to be worked on to get them to fit into the frame correctly. I had to clean up and sand most rear rails in all of the different builds I did over the years. Sometimes you get lucky and the rear rails fit without having to work on them.
One should never egg out or make the frame holes bigger in order to install the rails.
And yes you can get a bad rear rail where the rail portions are not bent correctly. That can be fixed if you are careful.
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I had to modify my holes as they were out of spec. I agree you need to fit stock p80 rails, yes. BUT I put rook tactical rails in and EVEN then holes didnt line up. That eliminated the rails as a variable.
The correct approach is to close the holes with JB Weld and redrill in proper location.
I'm thinking that won't bond to the existing frame plastic unless you "weld" the frame plastic with heat... like a soldering iron. I don't see that coming out well.
An alternative to JB Weld is super-glue & baking soda (I think). @Michele described such a technique here. Let me see if I can find it:
If it is black, graphite and super glue also works well and is a little more like a polymer when it dries.
You could try this stuff. Mask off one side of the hole and mince up the plastic and mix with the glue. It hardens quick but if YOU are quick that shouldn't be an issue.
If you squeeze the air out of the bottle when done it lasts a good long time and doesn't harden in the bottle like regular superglue. I've used it for all sorts of stuff including re-glueing a Freedom Wolf rail back on. At least 300rds through it so far with no issues or looseness. Vibra-TITE 38828
If you could find an FDE colored powder, you could mix with the superglue. Maybe FDE powder coat would work.
I think they make a clear version although I only have experience with 388. LINKIthat Vibratite Black Max! Unfortunately the frame in question is FDE,
Will the gun be on display? Is John Wick a potential buyer?
Chances are any repair is going to be hidden by your hand and is only going to be 3mm or 4mm large. Maybe use touch-up paint? Then put the gun back in the case/safe where no one will see it... 
@Alex
If you need a chunk of the rail snip from a FDE P80, I probably have one I can can throw in an envelope and send it to you. I'll have to look but I probably still have the snips I saved from my builds for exactly such a purpose.
When you get the chunk, rub it against a metal file to create about 1-2 cm³ pile of powder on a piece of cardboard. Get the frame ready to accept a liquid glue/epoxy in the hole by cleaning, then sealing the backside of the hole with tape. On a piece of cardboard next to the pile of powder, dispense about 1-2 ml³ of glue next to the powder, mix thoroughly and apply before the glue sets. Read the instructions on the glue first. I save old utility blades to use for the purpose of a spreader for this purpose.
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Understood. I'll run this build and if the pins decide to walk out on me, I'll close the holes and redrill.
Also, is it OK for me to use my Rook Tactical rear rails with my stock P80 locking block? Has it worked smoothly/safely for you? Concerned that there may be different tolerances.
I don't see why not.
Remember when filling in holes you should put a chamfer on both sides of the hole being filled in. This will help keep the fill-in, glue or JB-weld to stay in under stress from removing pin for cleaning.
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I will be another one to state that the correct method is to fill in the holes and redrill them in the correct location.
You should never oversize or egg out any of the pin holes in the frames or rails.
If the P80 and Rook rail holes did not line up with the holes in the frame then the frame needs repaired and re-drilled.
That won't properly bond to the frame.
I have fixed a few frames by taking a soldering iron and the tabs that I removed to fill in the holes. That way the color will match. I have not had any frames fail after welding the holes up with a soldering iron and the cutoff tabs.
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Are you using an OEM Glock barrel?
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Yep. Everything is OEM.
You can remove material from the hood of the slide or the locking block. I actually prefer to remove from the slide since it is the strongest part and the locking block is MIM and the weakest link of the two. Maybe try the locking block as Glock slides are known to rust when the protective coating is removed and the locking blocks are not very expensive to replace.
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Yeah, I chose to remove from the locking block as its cheaper to replace than glock parts