76% Guidance

ItsWAWGaming

ItsWAWGaming

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Made it to this far on the pocket, any good ways to get the remaining amount out?
20250201_173113.jpg
 
It looks like you've done a good job of being careful and going slowly. I haven't done a "76%" frame. But my thought would be to use a rotary tool, such as a Dremel with a small diamond bit that can reach those recesses.... and go very lightly and slowly.
 
Yaumirr said:
How did u get it out?
Click to expand...

ItsWAWGaming said:
wire cutters
Click to expand...

Thanks for joining the forum and participating by posting! When you get a chance, please write up a quick “introduction” (or RE-introduction if you were a former MGB forum member) of yourself over in the Introduce Yourself! section. Tell us about yourself, your building experience, and how you found the forum.

Jump into other threads, too! Come on in... the water's fine! 😊
 
Racer88 said:
It looks like you've done a good job of being careful and going slowly. I haven't done a "76%" frame. But my thought would be to use a rotary tool, such as a Dremel with a small diamond bit that can reach those recesses.... and go very lightly and slowly.
Click to expand...
Yeah I got just the thing, a small rotary tool with a diamond cylinder bit and a sharp drill bit that im using to clear it away, almost got it out now.
 
Use caution with rotary tools down on that area. The frame is very easily damaged. Bits also are not long enough to get down in there. I don’t recommend using them once the top area is cleaned out. Remove the plastic out by hand cutting the best you can then sand or file to bring out the details required. A hot blade to cut the grid worked best for me.

Take a look at how I did my 1st frame

Building the new Bridge (76%) frame ?

I'm still awaiting my new tools. Fully excited to get going on this project to tackle this new challenge. I plan to share my experiences here. So far this is my plan. Tools: 1) I'll be using the standard tools recommended in the MGB videos to complete the frame. Click on more under the video...
www.patriotgunbuilders.com www.patriotgunbuilders.com

Then the 2nd frame which came out pretty good

Building the new Bridge (76%) frame ?

I'm still awaiting my new tools. Fully excited to get going on this project to tackle this new challenge. I plan to share my experiences here. So far this is my plan. Tools: 1) I'll be using the standard tools recommended in the MGB videos to complete the frame. Click on more under the video...
www.patriotgunbuilders.com www.patriotgunbuilders.com
 
Michele said:
Use caution with rotary tools down on that area. The frame is very easily damaged. Bits also are not long enough to get down in there. I don’t recommend using them once the top area is cleaned out. Remove the plastic out by hand cutting the best you can then sand or file to bring out the details required. A hot blade to cut the grid worked best for me.

Take a look at how I did my 1st frame

Building the new Bridge (76%) frame ?

I'm still awaiting my new tools. Fully excited to get going on this project to tackle this new challenge. I plan to share my experiences here. So far this is my plan. Tools: 1) I'll be using the standard tools recommended in the MGB videos to complete the frame. Click on more under the video...
www.patriotgunbuilders.com www.patriotgunbuilders.com

Then the 2nd frame which came out pretty good

Building the new Bridge (76%) frame ?

I'm still awaiting my new tools. Fully excited to get going on this project to tackle this new challenge. I plan to share my experiences here. So far this is my plan. Tools: 1) I'll be using the standard tools recommended in the MGB videos to complete the frame. Click on more under the video...
www.patriotgunbuilders.com www.patriotgunbuilders.com
Click to expand...
1738473699441.png

Actually ended up turning out well so far using a drillbit and diamond cylinder on it, the drill got to the bottom, now I would imagine it's just clean up work on the extra bits left and then the sides
 
ItsWAWGaming said:
View attachment 28685
Actually ended up turning out well so far using a drillbit and diamond cylinder on it, the drill got to the bottom, now I would imagine it's just clean up work on the extra bits left and then the sides
Click to expand...

Looks like you perforated through? :( I don't know if it matters functionally. Looks like it could use some sanding, still.
 
Racer88 said:
Looks like you perforated through? :( I don't know if it matters functionally. Looks like it could use some sanding, still.
Click to expand...
Nothing punched through the wall, made it down there nice and clean, just needs sanding and the sides removed.
 
ItsWAWGaming said:
Nothing punched through the wall, made it down there nice and clean, just needs sanding and the sides removed.
Click to expand...
I was referring to the bottom. But yeah.... the wall between the pocket and magwell looks intact, so that's good.

1738504351006.png
 
Racer88 said:
I was referring to the bottom. But yeah.... the wall between the pocket and magwell looks intact, so that's good.

View attachment 28697
Click to expand...
I have a long blade hobby saw now that I have room to use to widdle the sides away, that little center hole is what MGB recommended I do, work from the center then to the sides.
 
ItsWAWGaming said:
Also is best to leave all of tabs intact for a 940v2 cause theres no dld main jig for it?
Click to expand...
Sorry, I don't think I understand the question. Leave the tabs (that must be removed) intact? How will you assemble the frame?
 
Racer88 said:
Sorry, I don't think I understand the question. Leave the tabs (that must be removed) intact? How will you assemble the frame?
Click to expand...
MGB Mentions that the tabs on the frame are left intact till drilling the holes on the original jig system, which you have to use on the 940V2 bridge cause DLD never made a jig for the 17 trigger, block and rear housing holes, I was just curious if it's still best to follow this cause I'm doing a 940V2
 
ItsWAWGaming said:
MGB Mentions that the tabs on the frame are left intact till drilling the holes on the original jig system, which you have to use on the 940V2 bridge cause DLD never made a jig for the 17 trigger, block and rear housing holes, I was just curious if it's still best to follow this cause I'm doing a 940V2
Click to expand...
Oh. I remember with the original P80s, he recommended drilling the pin holes first. Then remove tabs.

I don't know that it really matters which you do first. But I left the P80 (80%) frame in the jig and drilled the holes first. Then to remove all the tabs (rail tabs and RSA channel block), I did all that free-hand outside the jig.

I'm not familiar with the DLD jig. Someone here will know and chime in.
 
ItsWAWGaming said:
MGB Mentions that the tabs on the frame are left intact till drilling the holes on the original jig system, which you have to use on the 940V2 bridge cause DLD never made a jig for the 17 trigger, block and rear housing holes, I was just curious if it's still best to follow this cause I'm doing a 940V2 I jut released a
Click to expand...

Racer88 said:
Oh. I remember with the original P80s, he recommended drilling the pin holes first. Then remove tabs.

I don't know that it really matters which you do first. But I left the P80 (80%) frame in the jig and drilled the holes first. Then to remove all the tabs (rail tabs and RSA channel block), I did all that free-hand outside the jig.

I'm not familiar with the DLD jig. Someone here will know and chime in.
Click to expand...

If ya need one, I just released a reusable all in one jig for full size frames.

Code: pgb10 will get you 10% off 😁.

 
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