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[marsbase]

The green rubber bits do a good job of smoothing out plastic on the 80% frames.

Are you using a polishing compound with these on polymer? Amazon.com

JG suggests Flitz Green which I think is the same as the Water Based version. He is using that with felt polishing heads. BTW, JG does NOT suggest Flitz for metal work. For that he uses Dialux.

 

[FrankenGlock]

I just use the green rubber bits by themselves on the plastic to smooth it out. No cutting agent used. Seems to do a decent job. More of a final polish once the scratches are gone.

 

[FrankenGlock]

Also, make sure you read the fine print as there are different grades of these and some are as rough as 100 grit.

 

[USApat]

Also, make sure you read the fine print as there are different grades of these and some are as rough as 100 grit.

Do you have a link to the proper green ones? A brand name, or something else.

I bought some from Amazon and you are correct, I was not impressed with them for polishing. I am pretty certain I got the wrong ones.
My channels look pretty decent, but they could use that final bling bling because they are finished out pretty good right now.

 

[FrankenGlock]

It's been many years since I purchased, and I don't remember where I got them.

 

[FrankenGlock]

Amazon.com

One of the reviews says these work great on Polymer 80's. I have not used this brand. If they work, let me know because mine are almost down to the shaft.

 

[Michele]

Note on green polishers
Here’s some
Amazon.com
When purchasing green polishers check the material- get rubber , not Silicon Carbide or Aluminum Oxide or any that show course. Soak them in water, keep the area wet while using.

 

[USApat]

Note on green polishers
Here’s some
Amazon.com
When purchasing green polishers check the material- get rubber , not Silicon Carbide or Aluminum Oxide or any that show course. Soak them in water, keep the area wet while using.

@FrankenGlock @Michele

I saw a comment on Franaken's link suggesting to soak it for a few hours before use.

I used a little water when using these things, but not a whole lot. It would make sense that more water would help. Although it is rubber, the water must act like lubricant does for wet sand paper when sanding paint on a car. If you don't use water and keep the sand paper wet, it just doesn't work very well. Must be the same with these rubber Thingamajigs .

I say this, because I looked at my purchase history and I bought the "rubber" ones. So, I may go back and soak them and use a lot more water to see how it works before buying different ones.

Thanks for yall's input!

 

[MikedaddyH]

Note on green polishers
Here’s some
Amazon.com
When purchasing green polishers check the material- get rubber , not Silicon Carbide or Aluminum Oxide or any that show course. Soak them in water, keep the area wet while using.

That is a great tip !!

 

[Racer88]

I use mineral oil as the lubricant.

 

[Bongo Lewi]

I use mineral oil as the lubricant.

I'll bet you do.

 

[Bongo Lewi]

Note on green polishers
Here’s some
Amazon.com
When purchasing green polishers check the material- get rubber , not Silicon Carbide or Aluminum Oxide or any that show course. Soak them in water, keep the area wet while using.

I started using the rubber polishing tools after going thru a gazillion of the felt type. I found no reason to not use Flitz vs. more elaborate polishing compounds. Then again, the only parts I devote time to polishing are small trigger-related components and feed ramps.

I once polished a Miata head cover and swore I'd never do that again. Advances in coatings since those days make it unnecessary. Ceramic chrome coatings look just as good and dont take a year to complete - or a wheelbarrow full of money if you send it out. This Honda valve cover coating was sprayed on and baked. Suitable for a firearm? Maybe not. Depends on the part.