Corys’ Method How to get a great channel

Michele

Michele

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Michele submitted a new resource:

How to get a great channel - Glock Build Educational Material

This is how I get a great channel
Contribution from Cory Sapeda
Published with permission​

Now the reason I’m really writing this is to show you guys a bit I stumbled onto a while back. I
wanted to see how it worked on my channel, so I tried it and it worked out great! So I began
using it permanently and was always happy with the turn out. I wanted to show you guys the
way I was using the bit. So after using the bit I was sanding...
Click to expand...

Read more about this resource...
 
okay i seem to like this channel method just a little lost. what speed is his dremel at when removing the channel for shaping? does the wipes do the polishing and finishing cause he didn't quite say what wipes are use of in tutorial. just wondering
 
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buckbeez said:
okay i seem to like this channel method just a little lost. what speed is his dremel at when removing the channel for shaping? does the wipes do the polishing and finishing cause he didn't quite say what wipes are use of in tutorial. just wondering
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Use a Dremel speed you feel comfortable with. The faster it goes the faster material is removed. Use the same bit or (115) straight bit to do the rails. Accomplish sanding using grits per the article then finish with the wipes to get the shine. It’s cerakote. If you are not aware of what cerakote wipes are here’s the info 👇
 
buckbeez said:
what speed is his dremel at when removing the channel for shaping?
Click to expand...

Michele said:
Use a Dremel speed you feel comfortable with. The faster it goes the faster material is removed.
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Another factor is PRESSURE. The Dremel motor has a fair bit of torque. That means even when you press hard, it keeps going. It doesn't stall easily.

So, if you press too hard, even at low speed, the friction will generate HEAT very QUICKLY. And, you'll melt and gouge the plastic.

The answer? Whichever speed you want to use, use LIGHT PRESSURE. Of course, the higher the speed, the faster it will generate heat if you use too much pressure. So, it's speed AND pressure that are factors.

Light brushing strokes. Slow and steady wins the race when it comes to finishing and polishing plastic.
 
MIchele & Cory that's a good tip! FWIW, I've used the Cerakote headlight restorer kit on our 5 series, and it really did a great job restoring and protecting the lenses. This seems like a very nice idea for polymer frames. Thanks!
 
Racer88 said:
Another factor is PRESSURE. The Dremel motor has a fair bit of torque. That means even when you press hard, it keeps going. It doesn't stall easily.

So, if you press too hard, even at low speed, the friction will generate HEAT very QUICKLY. And, you'll melt and gouge the plastic.

The answer? Whichever speed you want to use, use LIGHT PRESSURE. Of course, the higher the speed, the faster it will generate heat if you use too much pressure. So, it's speed AND pressure that are factors.

Light brushing strokes. Slow and steady wins the race when it comes to finishing and polishing plastic.
Click to expand...
I'll take contemplating my navel & margarita sipping for 1000!!

But seriously, love these tips and I hope peeps pay attention. Another nice tool (and I think you'd suggested it months ago) was that nifty Micro-Mark sander. it will get into spots that the Dremel can be a precarious venture. Just used it tonight again, fwiw.
 
I've always found that a very light touch is best if you're trying to get a nice smooth finish on plastic. High speed to cut with minimum chattering, medium speed to polish.
 
no4mk1t said:
I've always found that a very light touch is best if you're trying to get a nice smooth finish on plastic. High speed to cut with minimum chattering, medium speed to polish.
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Yep... super-light touch. It takes more time, too, of course.
But, if you want that "FTQ," slow and light will get you there.
That's what she said! :ROFLMAO: :outta here:
 
Yes but how is the sandpaper used for example like with a tool or he used his finger? just slight confusion
 
Timmknox9 said:
Yes but how is the sandpaper used for example like with a tool or he used his finger? just slight confusion
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Some wrap it around something that approximates the same diameter as the channel. A wooden dowel, for example.

I used a micro-sander that is pretty nifty:

Tutorial - Using a Micro-Sander for P80 Frame and Channel Finishing

This is a really nifty tool I discovered. I got it from MicroMark. https://www.micromark.com/MicroLux-Micro-Sander I made a video of how it can be used for frame and channel finishing: Edit to add: Woohoooo! We can now embed Rumble videos!
www.patriotgunbuilders.com www.patriotgunbuilders.com
 
Racer88 said:
Some wrap it around something that approximates the same diameter as the channel. A wooden dowel, for example.

I used a micro-sander that is pretty nifty:

Tutorial - Using a Micro-Sander for P80 Frame and Channel Finishing

This is a really nifty tool I discovered. I got it from MicroMark. https://www.micromark.com/MicroLux-Micro-Sander I made a video of how it can be used for frame and channel finishing: Edit to add: Woohoooo! We can now embed Rumble videos!
www.patriotgunbuilders.com www.patriotgunbuilders.com
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Thanks that is all I asked @Racer88. Sounds good ✌️
 
OP, what are you using to sand the channel with? Just your fingers and the sandpaper? Or, do you have a special technique?

I've always had trouble using sandpaper in the channel area, even using a dowel, so I switched from diamond files to the micro-sander Raccer uses, but I haven't tried it yet.

The TLDR version is:
Rough cut channel w/ Dremel bit #117
Then, used sandpaper on channel from 120 gr to 1000 gr.
Finished appearance with Cerokote wipes.
 
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