FrankenRuger

FrankenGlock

FrankenGlock

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Built a total of 4 of the FrankenRuger RXM’s. I’ve used some different parts to do so such as front rails from a PSA Dagger, P80, and my own using the RXM locking block. For the rear rails, I’ve used PSA Dagger rails, P80 rails, and some generic rails for printed Glocks. For the other ones I made, one has a GPT, another has a Timney system I modified for the stock Ruger trigger housing (Timney is now making a drop in system for the RXM and that would have saved me a ton of time), and one with a Gen 4 trigger housing but will be replaced with a GPT the next time I order some.

For this build, I wanted to create my own version of the G49 based on one of my FrankenRuger RXM’s. This one has a Gen 5 ambi slide stop, Lone Wolf trigger shoe, minus connector, Ruger RXM trigger housing, Gen 4/5 Alpha slide, NDZ Gen 3 to 4/5 RSA, VDI billet firing pin and VDI billet extractor, Gen 5 G17 threaded barrel from AIM, OE Glock firing pin safety/spring, spring cups, channel liner, spacer, and extractor depressor plunger assembly. As you can see, it also has an aluminum magwell and Holosun red dot.

None of the ones I make have the Ruger FCU assembly as it is not needed to make this a working firearm. Also, all of these run best with Magpul magazines, imagine that.

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I’m glad I was able to find your thread on here about these. I had the exact same idea because I like a challenge and like a lot of the aspects building one of these provides! I have some decent building experience and I had wondered about the RSA channel and the front most pin. Does the grip modules come with the proprietary shaped pin for the front rails/locking block? If not where can one find a source of these? And are there any other parts that I’ll need that aren’t already in the lower/upper parts kits I will be using anyway?

Before I found your page I was curious of this grip will fit into my jig I have from BenchyMade, which is a awesome jig btw! Was the jig you used a regular P80? Was it a perfect drop in fit? No mods needed to the jig itself?

I had thought about just adding a second pin to the rear housing to prevent the forward pivot of the trigger housing, but i also like your custom wall. What are your thoughts on a permanent or removable pin precisely placed between the trigger housing and rear mag area?

I notice these posts were from last year have you done anything new since? Have you tried the front rails using a freedom fighter rail for 3d printed frames? I was thinking this might be the way to go in the RSA channel and then using something like a daggers locking block and rear rails.

Im definitely on a budget myself as always and I like to DIY everything I own so despite the difficulties that might come with doing this Im still going to do it because giving up is not an option once I commit to it!

Thanks for your contribution to the community and inspiring other people to do something that may be thought to be impossible! Great post!
 
You can buy everything through Shop Ruger. Make your own rails on the front and use whatever you can fit for the rear. Yes, I have thought about an additional pin as that would keep the Ruger trigger housing from rotating forward. You could also clearance a small pin rod like the size of a mag release spring in front of the housing between the walls and front of the Ruger trigger housing so it is not visible from the outside. You could also drill through the side of the rear rails and attach with a screw or rod. There are many ways to accomplish what you want to make it work.

I haven’t messed with the RXM for some time.
 
FrankenGlock said:
You can buy everything through Shop Ruger. Make your own rails on the front and use whatever you can fit for the rear. Yes, I have thought about an additional pin as that would keep the Ruger trigger housing from rotating forward. You could also clearance a small pin rod like the size of a mag release spring in front of the housing between the walls and front of the Ruger trigger housing so it is not visible from the outside. You could also drill through the side of the rear rails and attach with a screw or rod. There are many ways to accomplish what you want to make it work.

I haven’t messed with the RXM for some time.
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I’m looking around the shop ruger site now, I’m noticing some parts I’ll of course need but I was under the impression the grip comes equipped with the mag release spring and the magrelease right? Long story short I have a full 19 slide ready to put on one of these i just want to go ahead and buy everything to build the bottom without using the fci (much like an advanced version of a p80 mixed with a g80) Exactly like you did pretty much. I’ll work on the frame for several weeks or months before I will feel satisfied with my work so I already know some frustration will be involved but that is part of the fun doing things like this. But one of the most appealing factors is the price point. If for some reason I could beat the price point with another route that fulfills the pros this route provides particularly price and non serialization I’d go that route, but the p80 and a lot of the gun building methods that are unserialized are appearing to become more and more extinct every day, as to be expected from a company no longer producing the parts, but with a little work and something like this it provides a little hope for future projects or just simply the availability of replacement parts when needed. Or just the light of the future project being possible by availability of the components.

My goal was to use as many gen 3 parts as possible for the lower on one of these, can you comment on your frankenruger method about the parts that was required from shop ruger versus the gen 3 counterparts? I know I’ll need that take down pin to make it look right and I don’t mind getting things like the trigger housing, ejector, locking block . But if it’s easier to go with others to make it lock up or go into battery without higher risk mods then I’d like to keep it looking the best when it does work if that makes sense.
 
Tekpros said:
I’m looking around the shop ruger site now, I’m noticing some parts I’ll of course need but I was under the impression the grip comes equipped with the mag release spring and the magrelease right? Long story short I have a full 19 slide ready to put on one of these i just want to go ahead and buy everything to build the bottom without using the fci (much like an advanced version of a p80 mixed with a g80) Exactly like you did pretty much. I’ll work on the frame for several weeks or months before I will feel satisfied with my work so I already know some frustration will be involved but that is part of the fun doing things like this. But one of the most appealing factors is the price point. If for some reason I could beat the price point with another route that fulfills the pros this route provides particularly price and non serialization I’d go that route, but the p80 and a lot of the gun building methods that are unserialized are appearing to become more and more extinct every day, as to be expected from a company no longer producing the parts, but with a little work and something like this it provides a little hope for future projects or just simply the availability of replacement parts when needed. Or just the light of the future project being possible by availability of the components.

My goal was to use as many gen 3 parts as possible for the lower on one of these, can you comment on your frankenruger method about the parts that was required from shop ruger versus the gen 3 counterparts? I know I’ll need that take down pin to make it look right and I don’t mind getting things like the trigger housing, ejector, locking block . But if it’s easier to go with others to make it lock up or go into battery without higher risk mods then I’d like to keep it looking the best when it does work if that makes sense.
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I’ve built them every which way. With their locking block, PSA Dagger rails/locking block, P80 subcompact rails and locking block, P80 sub-compact locking block. Really depends on what you want to use. If you use the Ruger parts, you will need the large front pin, locking block pin as it is a different length and size, P80 joined rear rails work best, and the rest can be Glock parts.

The Ruger frame comes with mag release and mag release spring, slide lock spring, and spring that holds the front pin in place. Everything else you have to source. Now that the Gen 6 Glock is out, it would be easiest to adapt that trigger housing assembly as it sits lower than a standard Glock and would require less work.
 
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FrankenGlock said:
I’ve built them ever which way. With their locking block, PSA Dagger rails/locking block, P80 subcompact rails and locking block, P80 sub-compact locking block. Really depends on what you want to use. If you use the Ruger parts, you will need the large front pin, locking block pin as it is a different length and size, P80 joined rear rails work best, and the rest can be Glock parts.

The Ruger frame comes with mag release and mag release spring, slide lock spring, and spring that holds the front pin in place. Everything else you have to source. Now that the Gen 6 Glock is out, it would be easiest to adapt that trigger housing assembly as it sits lower than a standard Glock and would require less work.
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Great info my friend thank you!
 
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