Tip! Getting the Most From a Battery

[no4mk1t]

Back when I managed an auto parts store many years ago, the battery company rep gave us some tips on making your battery last. This was not too many years after Low Maintenace/Maintenance Free calcium hybrid batteries came on the market. Some things he mentioned that no longer applied were that the new batteries didn't like "fast" charging like many service stations used to advertise, charging your battery in 30 minutes etc. And "jumping off" a dead battery and then thinking the alternator will charge it while you drive around for a couple hours wasn't going to work anymore. At best you get a surface charge, but it's not going to bring the battery up to 100%.

The other thing he mentioned that was important was that when you buy a new battery, it may have sat on the shelf for a few months and lost some charge. Not dead, but not 100% either. He said always charge the battery up to 100% before you put it in service. Since then, I have followed that advice and gotten good service from auto batteries. So today I had to replace the battery in one of the vehicles and looked at the date I bought it. It lasted 7 years, 8 months. The most I have ever gotten was 8 years and the average person who does not do anything special to maintain a battery gets maybe 4 years.

So, I just got it installed and hooked the automatic charger to it. I'll leave it charging overnight and call it good. The charger cuts back to 2A once it senses full voltage, so leaving it overnight will ensure it comes up to 100% if there's one cell that lags behind the others.

5 years ago, I bought a new riding mower. Previously, I never had those small riding mower batteries last more than 2-3 years. When I bought the mower, I bought a small battery maintainer that keeps the battery up over the winter. I switch it between the golf cart and the mower and haven't had any issues with either so far.

Also, look at the rating of the factory battery that came in your car, or look it up on the net. It will be rated in either Cranking Amps (CA) @ 32F, or Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) @ 0F. If the factory battery was rated at 450 CCA, you don't really need a replacement battery with 700+ CCA. To get that higher rating, the manufacturer crams more plates into the battery. (Remember, the physical size of the battery stays the same) To do that, the plates are necessarily thinner and spaced more closely together. This is a double edge sword. Yes, you get more cranking power from the battery, but if the battery is low and you try to start a cold car in winter, you run the risk of warping a plate. if it touches an adjoining plate, it will short the cell.

With the price of auto batteries through the roof, with some of the new cars topping $200 for a battery, it's worth your while to maintain it for best possible life.

 

[no4mk1t]

Forgot to add.
I have been using these anti corrosion battery terminal washers for years and they work much better than the spray IMHO.
They are made from felt that is treated with a chemical and go over the post on top post batteries, and between the cable end and the battery on side post batteries. I've seen red and green, both red, both black, and red and black. Don't think the color really matters. The center is perforated so the center can be cut out to fit side post batteries. For top post, use as they come out of the package.
These cost $1 at Walmart and auto parts stores and are worth it.

Clean the battery and the cables really good. Use a tablespoon of baking soda in a cup of water and pour on the battery terminals. Likewise, you can soak the cable end to get all the corrosion off.

 

[no4mk1t]

We have four vehicles in the family.
The wife drives the newest one, (of course) and the other 3 each sit for 2 weeks at a time. (I drive each one for a week at a time to work)
After it's 2 weeks off, the car with the 5 year old battery turned over just a wee bit slower than normal, so I put it on the charger, but due to rain in the forecast took it off after 6 hours. After 6 hours, it still wasn't fully charged, so after the rain quit the next day, it went back on for overnight. Now it's back to its former cranking speed.

While I had the charger out, I put it on the 7 year old battery overnight as well.
I'm going to start putting them on the charger at the end of their 2 week hiatus and see how much longer I can get them to last. Being I only live 3 miles from work, the alternator is never going to have the chance to put back the electrons used to start the car and then power the lights, heater, and wipers, etc.

So, the morale of the story is that just because you can start the car, doesn't mean the battery is fully charged. If your kids leave the inside lights on and draw down the battery and you think your GTG because you could still start the car, think again.

 

[no4mk1t]

Ha!!
Saw this and it brought back a funny memory.
When I had the auto parts store, we had this crusty, grumpy mechanic who ran an auto repair shop next door. He was a Vietnam Vet and other than his grumpy demeanor, was a good guy.

He buys a battery from me for a car he's working on.
His shop is poorly lit, and he relies mainly on an incandescent shop light for under hood work.
Anyway, he calls on the phone raising hell about the battery he just bought and how it's dead and won't even make the inside light come on.
OK Charlie, I'll bring you another battery, just chill.
I arrive with the second battery and upon inspection, this is what I see. He missed it in the poor light.
In his defense, the battery vendor had previously only put a red cap on the positive post but had recently started parting a black cap on the negative post as well.
We still ribbed the hell out of him...

 

[Bobster]

Here in FL, it is uncommon for a battery to last more than 4yrs. After 3yrs, they can die just like that for no apparent reason. The heat just kills them. Last battery I bought (H6) about 6mnts ago was an Exide from Home Depot of all places. Think it was $130 compared to $160 minimum from the auto part stores...

I'll trickle a battery if I think about it and the car will be sitting for a few hours. Just to top it off.

I'll take a red Sharpie and color the top of the (+) terminal. Helps everyone make the right connections.

I haven't had a problem with corrosion on any of my batteries lately. When I did, I would clean and dry the terminals then spray with some clearcoat if I had it . Fucking assholes putting grease on a battery terminal I'd punch them in the dick!

I got a gel battery for my kickstart motorcycle (small 12v) and that sucker has lasted over 5yrs now. I could never get more than 2-3yrs out of a lead-acid. Battery only powers the lights and horn, separate coil for the head light...

 

[USApat]

I drafted this yesterday, and it was so long that I almost didn't post it here. It's a lenghty post, but if you want to save yourself some grief with replacing and funding car/truck batteries, please read on. It is such a long post, because I want to save you time and money by convincing you to buy a Deka. No, I do not work for them and I'm not affiliated in any way.

A 2 amp slow boat charge for many hours on batteries that have been sitting awhile is a good thing and necessary thing to do. Sitting awhile is 2-3 weeks like stated above. Modern cars suck more phantom power than older vehicles.

I will share a little secret with y'all about batteries. Replace it with a Deka.
Why?
Because they last an incredibly long, long time. I bought their premium version for my box truck which has a stout battery over a decade ago and it still performs better than any car battery I own or have ever owned in my life. I charge it and it pumps out 12.6-12.7 volts and maintains that level for a long time on the shelf or with no load attached.

How long?
Get this. I forgot about the battery once and couldn't find the bastard. I found it stored under some cardboard boxes after 2-3 years. I thought for sure it was toast. I charged it appropriately for a battery that has been sitting for awhile and guess what? It held the charge rock solid. at 12.6-12.7 volts after not being used for years.

I bought another Deka about 4-5 years ago for another vehicle. It was not the premium version they sell, but the one just below it. I think they have three different versions of batteries. It has also performed well, but it doesn't quite hold the charge like the box truck battery. This one is about 12.5 volts when topped up.

Fuck Interstate. They turned to shit a long, long time ago and I never looked back ditching all Interstates. I do not own one at this point and I have many vehicles. It took awhile to ween the vehicles from Interstate. They will fry easily in hot climates. Heat kills a lot of modern batteries. They have gotten quite susceptible to heat failure. Look that up. Most people think the cold is bad, but heat on the modern POS battery you buy at retail level is the death knell to it.

Deka. Look 'em up. They typically have a wholesale warehouse type scenario servicing shops mainly. But, you can go in and buy retail from them and you don't need a resale number or have to be operating a shop for them to sell to you. And, here's the kicker. They are typically cheaper than buying a POS at Autozone, Walmart or other retailers. I haven't had to buy a Deka in a few years, because all of mine are still working fine, so they may have gone up in price over the other suppliers. But, if they have, it's worth the extras money. But odds are they're still cheaper than buying from the auto parts stores or Wally World and you get an exponentially better battery.

BTW, a lot of shops, auto parts stores and mechanics do not know about Deka batteries. If they try to say to avoid them, ask them why. Odds are, it's because they know nothing about them or have never used them. Mechanics are picky about their tools and batteries. Once they form a habit of use for either one, it is difficult to ween them. A friend of mine runs a dealership parts department for over 30 years and I still can't convince him to buy a Deka. He knows it all I guess. Meanwhile he just had to replace some of his own batteries this past year and what did he use? The same POS factory battery that failed him repeatedly in various vehicles in the past.

So how did I learn about Dekas? A friend of mine ran an auto repair business for three decades and had to continuously warranty the dead Interstates he was supplying to his customers. He ditched them and started using Dekas. I was resistant to his suggestion to buy a Dekas at first. But, it has been the best decision I have made in my life when it comes to batteries. They just fucking last and they work.

Remember the name and thank me later in about five to ten years. My auto repair friend told me about them in 2010-ish when I bought that box truck battery.

 

[Racer88]

I drafted this yesterday, and it was so long that I almost didn't post it here. It's a lenghty post, but if you want to save yourself some grief with replacing and funding car/truck batteries, please read on. It is such a long post, because I want to save you time and money by convincing you to buy a Deka. No, I do not work for them and I'm not affiliated in any way.

A 2 amp slow boat charge for many hours on batteries that have been sitting awhile is a good thing and necessary thing to do. Sitting awhile is 2-3 weeks like stated above. Modern cars suck more phantom power than older vehicles.

I will share a little secret with y'all about batteries. Replace it with a Deka.
Why?
Because they last an incredibly long, long time. I bought their premium version for my box truck which has a stout battery over a decade ago and it still performs better than any car battery I own or have ever owned in my life. I charge it and it pumps out 12.6-12.7 volts and maintains that level for a long time on the shelf or with no load attached.

How long?
Get this. I forgot about the battery once and couldn't find the bastard. I found it stored under some cardboard boxes after 2-3 years. I thought for sure it was toast. I charged it appropriately for a battery that has been sitting for awhile and guess what? It held the charge rock solid. at 12.6-12.7 volts after not being used for years.

I bought another Deka about 4-5 years ago for another vehicle. It was not the premium version they sell, but the one just below it. I think they have three different versions of batteries. It has also performed well, but it doesn't quite hold the charge like the box truck battery. This one is about 12.5 volts when topped up.

Fuck Interstate. They turned to shit a long, long time ago and I never looked back ditching all Interstates. I do not own one at this point and I have many vehicles. It took awhile to ween the vehicles from Interstate. They will fry easily in hot climates. Heat kills a lot of modern batteries. They have gotten quite susceptible to heat failure. Look that up. Most people think the cold is bad, but heat on the modern POS battery you buy at retail level is the death knell to it.

Deka. Look 'em up. They typically have a wholesale warehouse type scenario servicing shops mainly. But, you can go in and buy retail from them and you don't need a resale number or have to be operating a shop for them to sell to you. And, here's the kicker. They are typically cheaper than buying a POS at Autozone, Walmart or other retailers. I haven't had to buy a Deka in a few years, because all of mine are still working fine, so they may have gone up in price over the other suppliers. But, if they have, it's worth the extras money. But odds are they're still cheaper than buying from the auto parts stores or Wally World and you get an exponentially better battery.

BTW, a lot of shops, auto parts stores and mechanics do not know about Deka batteries. If they try to say to avoid them, ask them why. Odds are, it's because they know nothing about them or have never used them. Mechanics are picky about their tools and batteries. Once they form a habit of use for either one, it is difficult to ween them. A friend of mine runs a dealership parts department for over 30 years and I still can't convince him to buy a Deka. He knows it all I guess. Meanwhile he just had to replace some of his own batteries this past year and what did he use? The same POS factory battery that failed him repeatedly in various vehicles in the past.

So how did I learn about Dekas? A friend of mine ran an auto repair business for three decades and had to continuously warranty the dead Interstates he was supplying to his customers. He ditched them and started using Dekas. I was resistant to his suggestion to buy a Dekas at first. But, it has been the best decision I have made in my life when it comes to batteries. They just fucking last and they work.

Remember the name and thank me later in about five to ten years. My auto repair friend told me about them in 2010-ish when I bought that box truck battery.

I have actually never heard of them. Go figure.

I'll have to look if they're available in my area next time I need a new battery.

 

[USApat]

I have actually never heard of them. Go figure.

I'll have to look if they're available in my area next time I need a new battery.

I would not have posted such a long post if I did not believe in them 100%. I think you will be happy, if and when, you need a replacement. It has gotten cold here, so I have gone and hauled in my spare batteries in the shop which amount to 4-5 of them. I put them inside in a closet. LOL. Kinda redneck I know, but I didn't want them to take a hit with the cold because the costs have gotten crazy. I don't need a $500-$1000 bill if the cold takes a hit on them when I want to start some things in the spring summer.

Learning how batteries charge and the various phases they go through and the importance of charging in the various phases with a quality charger or charger(s) is a good thing to learn about. There are three distinct phases for charging and maintaining batteries. It is beyond the scope of this thread, but do a search and read about it and it is a good thing to know how to do. It can save you some cash and frustration if you own multiple vehicles or home power off the grid.. Most people off the grid partially learn and know what to do because of the significant investment they have in batteies.

In general, iIt is not enough to just slap a charger on any 12 volt battery hen it is low and call it a day. You will fry them early and not be maximizing the life. If you have deep cycle too with an RV, golf cart, or home/shop solar power, they have their own charging processes too. The deep cycle voltage levels don't vary a lot when they are charged fully. If it is reading 12.3 or 12.4 volts on a deep cycle, you need to charge it. It is low. And you need to charge it with a smart charger that will take it through the three phases a deep cycle needs in order to stay healthy for a long time.

Batteries can be a PITA! Like a high maintenance woman. LOL

 

[no4mk1t]

Here in FL, it is uncommon for a battery to last more than 4yrs. After 3yrs, they can die just like that for no apparent reason. The heat just kills them.

Yep, this is true.
If you can insulate the battery from the engine compartment heat, that will help. Not much room in some small cars to do this, but if there is room, make a box around the battery of foam board insulation, or wrap the battery in Saran wrap and spray it with aerosol foam. Then trim it as needed after it dries.

 

[svt-bansheeman]

I usually get whatever the battery is warrantied for in my daily which is 2-3 years.

Speaking of, my alternator needs to be replaced. It's only charging 11.6v right as of yesterday. Hopefully it last another weeks since it's in the 30's outside right now.

 

[One Ping Only]

Deka makes a very good battery, and makes them for many other brands. I’m not saying they make them to the same spec as their own, however. And I don’t know who they are making batteries for today.

This is a great subject thread!!. And yes, the parasitic load on today’s car batteries are far greater than those in the 70’s. Today’s modern auto computers that control subsystems are always “on”. That means there is always a draw. And battery tenders are more common with new car sales (especially upscale/luxury autos) for that very reason.

One thing you want to keep in mind when purchasing an auto battery…regarding 36/48/60 “month” batteries. Many people think you are paying for a better battery..some brands even go so far as to change case colors on the plastic case with varying warranty period labeling so they “look” different. The dirty secret here is that you aren’t paying for a better battery within the same brand pool.

What you ARE paying for, is the better warranty coverage. Internals remain the same. There may be exceptions here and there, but it’s all too common for the most part.

Cleanliness of those clamps and terminals can’t be understated.

Before we had the closed gel cells of today, it wasn’t uncommon to see Dodges and Fords really load up the terminals with that blue mess of corrosion. (Corrosion often occurs when sulfuric acid fumes from the battery react with moisture in the air, forming corrosive sulfuric acid.)

Zinc cable clamps are also more resistant to corrosion than copper or lead, and Zinc is a superb conductor.

One thing I like to do with a clean post and terminal clamp is to use some grease ((lightly applied). White lithium, a dedicated battery grease, or even axle grease makes a great barrier, and is still conductive so it’s good to put a very light coating on the battery jugs as well.

Dielectric grease is good if you ONLY apply it to the outside of the clamp once it’s on the dry, clean terminal.

That being said, I think due to the nature of side post batteries not being as exposed to the aforementioned sulfuric acid fumes as top posts are, they seem to generally be less prone to corrosion. While I’ve encountered exceptions to that, they aren’t common and only rarely do I use grease on those, fwiw.

 

[gandrfab]

Another vote for Deka, had a few marine electronics installers rave about them.
Have seen them on a few hard use and mostly trailer queen kept boats, yet to hear a complaint about Deka's.

 

[Bcichlid]

One of mine was giving problems during the cold freeze we had recently, had to jump start it and after confirming with a tester had to get new battery as well (was 6yr old).
I forgot i had a tester in the garage, otherwise should have tested it sooner before winter came.
Its been very mild winter so far only one arctic blast for few days.
In my area with -20 F temp lots of cars didnt start up last week, many places sold out of batt.
Ordered new EverStart max group 35 from walmart, got new batch made 12/23 will see how long it lasts.

 

[Peepsight]

I have installed on both vehicles a battery maintainer. My F150 is on it's 3rd batt. I am of the opinion that I don't go far enough for the battery to get a good if not full charge. So my truck which is outside all the time gets plugged in 98% of the time and my Escape gets plugged in less often. It's crazy that a 2014 truck has needed 3 batteries already. My son just replaced his battery in a 2013 Subaru oem batt., 13 yrs for a battery is insane but he drives 38 mi each way every day which goes to my theory of miles and charging.

 

[no4mk1t]

Another thought came to mind when Ping mentioned parasitic drain...
You need to keep the top of the battery clean. If the battery gets dirty, especially if it stays moist, it will conduct between the posts. This can be measured with a volt meter. Top post batteries are affected more, but it can happen with side posts if the grunge is thick enough and goes over the edge near the terminals.

Battery maintainers are great, but use them in concert with a charger if your maintainer is only a maintainer. Don't expect them to charge the battery if it is low. The currently available chargers may also have a maintainer function. The new one I just bought has this.

 

[no4mk1t]

So, my riding mower battery crapped out. When I bought the mower new in 2018, I bought a battery maintainer and kept the battery on it whenever I wasn't mowing. This is a U1R mower battery that previously I could only get 2-3 years out of. And here we are at 6 years.

 

[Bobster]

We got a battery for our Craftsman rider a couple months ago. I got tired of having to "jump" the old one. 2 years out of a LM battery is to be expected--with maintenance during the off months they will last longer.

Semi-related is that I got a GEL battery for my XL350 Honda dual-purpose bike. Got it over 5 years ago and it is still going strong. Wasn't much more than a lead-acid, maybe $10?--$50 at the time. Little guy about 1/3 the size of a LM battery, I was lucky to get 2 years out of a lead-acid even with careful maintenance. As the bike is kickstart-only, the battery only powers the turn-signals, horn, tail and brake lights. The headlight is powered by a coil in the engine case and is only on when the bike is running.

 

[Peepsight]

I put a battery maintainer on the mower at church and also on both cars. My truck has had 3 since '15. My theory is we don't drive far enough to get a full charge. My son just replaced his in his car and it was 13 yrs old but he drives 40 mi to work. I don't plug cars in all the time except for really cold or if I find the meter saying they're very low. Cold is my biggest worry.

 

[no4mk1t]

FB post.
Really? Really?
Pay to register your battery so it lasts longer? BS!!
Can you say, "A fool and his money are soon parted."

 

[Bobster]

FB post.
Really? Really?
Pay to register your battery so it lasts longer? BS!!
Can you say, "A fool and his money are soon parted."

I think what they are talking about is to "register" (code) the battery in the PCM which requires the special tools and extra time which costs extra money...