Gun Photography! A primer.

Racer88

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I've been a "serious" amateur photographer since I got my first fully-manual SLR (Pentax Spotmatic 1000) in 1973 when I was 10 years old. I still have it! Though it doesn't work anymore. This is the camera (not my photo).

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Back on the MGB forum, there was a thread where a member wondered why his gun had a green cast to it in his photo. I pointed out that it was on a green background and the sunlight reflecting off the green background would affect the color of the gun in the photo.

I also explained that the background color can affect the exposure compensation in a camera (including a phone camera) with automatic exposure and automatic white balance. I decided to do a little experiment / demonstration.
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I did this in my back yard. Natural light - sun behind clouds (which is ideal). Phone camera on auto exposure. Same angle and same distance for each photo. All photos were taken within seconds of each other - just enough time to switch the background. So, lighting angle and intensity was the same for each.

These images are cropped. The camera was further back than would seem the case (before the cropping), so the metering / exposure would be influenced most by the various colored backgrounds. I cropped most of the background out, so the guns would be more visible in this demonstration.

I used two different colored guns to give more than one reference to the various backgrounds. Cool, eh?
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The gray background will render the most accurate exposure and color rendition. This background is a "neutral gray" made for use in the light box I have. Photographers use a "gray card," which is "18% gray" or "neutral gray" for this very purpose.

The white background (upper left) looks almost identical to the gray background (lower right) in the photo, right? That's because the camera's exposure system is trying to make the white into "neutral." In doing so, it lowers the value (brightness) and chroma (color intensity) of the subject (guns). Look at the difference in the apparent color of the guns in the white (top left) vs gray (lower right) backgrounds, but the backgrounds appear to be identical in the photos.

But, with the neutral gray background the camera's exposure computer doesn't have to compensate. That's why it renders the most accurate exposure and color of the subjects.

I love doing stuff like this! #ScienceBitches!

I used my phone for these shots of my recently completed P80 Build #2 (G19 clone). Also used a light box with a white background and a white gun stand. The key to good photos (of any kind): LIGHTING!
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You'll notice that the pistol stand sort of "disappears" in most of the photos. I did this by cranking up the exposure in Photoshop, which served double-duty by lightening the underexposed gun. Alternatively, if raising the exposure level isn't enough or isn't desired, I can "erase" the gun stand base using Photoshop's "spot healing brush." Works a charm!

When shooting a small dark subject on a light background, the auto-exposure on the camera is going to read the overall light background and shorten the exposure. This turns the white background (below) to a neutral gray. This results in the dark subject being rendered even darker, which can obscure the details.

So, in Photoshop (or other photo enhancing software), you can crank up the exposure to bring the dark subject "UP." This will cause the light background to "burn out." In this case, the background (including the pistol stand) are of no interest anyway. So, it's a benefit. I hope that made sense! Here's a before & after photoshop.

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You'll notice that the pistol stand almost disappears (burn-out). That's OK! Who needs it in the photo, anyway?? But, the details of the gun are better / more visible.

This can also be done on the camera with manual exposure settings, if you're so inclined.

Taking it a step further, I can use photoshop to get rid of what's left of the pistol stand showing in the photo, creating a "floating" gun:
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Having a little fun screwing around in photoshop. Don't be afraid to experiment!
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Of course, a light box "studio" is not necessary. Even if you do have one, it can be boring and resemble commercial marketing photography. One reason I like the light box shots is that there is no distracting background. The viewer can really focus on the details of the gun itself.

That said... Guns in other "natural" environments can make photos interesting. In this one, I used photoshop to crank up the colors and create a "halo" effect. I took this photo out on the patio on a wood table with the sun setting behind me and to my left.
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Just play with it and see what you get! Play with lighting. Play with angles. Play with backgrounds. There are plenty of photo editing programs besides Photoshop. Most computers (and even phones) come with basic editing software.

Just remember... Lots of light! And, sharp focus!

Hope you enjoyed and maybe learned something!
 
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Thanks for the share! Very informative. I could get lost playing with effects in photoshop. I almost feel like my pictures and designs are never finished. There is always another setting or perameter adjustment that makes it look even cooler.. šŸ‘šŸ¼
 
Thanks for the share! Very informative. I could get lost playing with effects in photoshop. I almost feel like my pictures and designs are never finished. There is always another setting or perameter adjustment that makes it look even cooler.. šŸ‘šŸ¼

Yeah... just re-edited the last photo (red) by brightening up the gun.
 
Here's a link to the "photo light box" I use. They come in different sizes.

 
First time I'm seeing this thread--good stuff! (y) :)

Here's a link to the "photo light box" I use. They come in different sizes.

So did you set up a kiosk in the mall taking pictures of people's guns to recoup what you spent on the light box? :unsure: :D
But I WILL say with the number and quality of photos you have posted here, it was money well spent! :)
 
First time I'm seeing this thread--good stuff! (y) :)



So did you set up a kiosk in the mall taking pictures of people's guns to recoup what you spent on the light box? :unsure: :D
But I WILL say with the number and quality of photos you have posted here, it was money well spent! :)
All of them aren't expensive. The low end of the one @Racer88 links to is around $20 (the bigger ones are a lot pricier). I bought a light box a while back and paid $40 with shipping/taxes. It has served my purposes well so far.
 
So did you set up a kiosk in the mall taking pictures of people's guns to recoup what you spent on the light box?
Well that's a thought for a "side hustle!" šŸ˜†

But I WILL say with the number and quality of photos you have posted here, it was money well spent! :)
Thanks! Good clear photography helps communicate ideas, techniques, etc. It also shows flaws very effectively! Ha!
 
Wow , quality work here. Now I know where the bar is. I have a couple of old Miranda 35mm cameras and a bunch of lenses. Got to get back into the old hobby.
 
Wow , quality work here. Now I know where the bar is. I have a couple of old Miranda 35mm cameras and a bunch of lenses. Got to get back into the old hobby.
All done with an old galaxy s9 phone. The camera doesn't really matter. The lighting is the most important thing.
 
Wow , quality work here. Now I know where the bar is. I have a couple of old Miranda 35mm cameras and a bunch of lenses. Got to get back into the old hobby.

All done with an old galaxy s9 phone. The camera doesn't really matter. The lighting is the most important thing.

Mike:
Like Racer, I have a Galaxy S9+ and I think it takes adequate photos and videos for MY use. Introduced in 2018, there is no bleeding-edge technology for us boys... ;) What kind of phone do you have?

I'd not bother with a 35mm at this point. The inconvenience of having to develop film and whatnot... Who has that kind of time and money? (and/or patience) :unsure: My daughter went on a trip to Peru a few months ago and she STILL has three Kodak "Funsaver" cameras that need to be developed. :rolleyes:

I had an Olympus 10x optical zoom digital camera I carried for a while in my briefcase. About a 2" dia. built-in telescopic lens. Used Oly's xD cards for storage and (4) AA batteries. Instead of extra film I carried extra rechargeable batteries. It took GREAT photos until the CMOS developed a few bad pixels. :rolleyes: I actually repaired the LCD of another one with parts off debay and used IT until it too developed bad pixels. The model was a 940 or something. At this point, cell phone camera technology was much better and I think about the time I got my first Galaxy, an S3. Also have an S5 (on-off button is bad) and still have an S7 as the biz phone.

The wife DOES have a Canon Rebel SLR I got her for Christmas over 10yrs ago that she NEVER uses... :( Takes Compact Flash cards which shows how "old" it is. (sitting here wondering if she would notice if the camera wasn't in its case... :unsure: :D )
 
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Just a thought, If I can find a digital camera with the same lense adapter as my Miranda Lenses I would be golden.
Phone ~ Nokia , IDK the model number.
 
Just a thought, If I can find a digital camera with the same lense adapter as my Miranda Lenses I would be golden.
Phone ~ Nokia , IDK the model number.
Most phone cameras are fine for this type of photography.... unless you're getting paid for it. It's all about the lighting.... which can be done cheaply, too.
 
Great tips, Racer88! I too am a photog buff. I miss my Nikons- though today's technology's made leaps and bounds since 2006 when I sold my 35mm's and the DSLR.. Lighting is SO important, and natural lighting is indeed preferable. I used to photograph my guitars- and the BEST of those photos years ago, came from cloudy/diffused natural sunlight indoors thru/by a window. One of the blessings of digital photography is instant results, so you can adjust accordingly whilst you're learning. One simple rule of thumb for me has always been, to "see" the picture with my naked eye, and then capture that in the viewfinder- making whatever adjustments necessary, aside from post-processing later.

IMO- Ichiro Negata was a true artist with gun photography, IMO.
 
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the BEST of those photos years ago, came from cloudy/diffused natural sunlight indoors thru/by a window.
Yep. That's the best lighting, especially for portraits (of people).

One of the blessings of digital photography is instant results, so you can adjust accordingly whilst you're learning.
True. Back in the film days, I'd burn a roll just to get one shot... like this:
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Or this:
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One simple rule of thumb for me has always been, to "see" the picture with my naked eye, and then capture that in the viewfinder- making whatever adjustments necessary, aside from post-processing later.
Yeah... I advise people to LOOK AROUND the viewfinder. Don't just "bullseye" the photo with the main subject centered in the viewfinder. The "rule of thirds" is a very good starting point.

IMO- Ichiro Negata was a true artist with gun photography, IMO.
Admittedly not familiar.
 
FWIW, Mr Nagata did many photoshoots for ā€˜American Handgunnerā€™, and other publications for many years. Just sublime firearms photography with a masterful use of lighting, colored lighting, etc, and other ways to accent & photograph without clutter. He had a certain Panache to his work that was immediately, to my eye anyways, identifiable. There are other greats in that field I do not mean to denigrate.
 
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