New! Happy Birthday To Me! Sig P322 Coyote TACPAC (.22LR pistol and accessories)

[Bobster]

Happy Belated Birthday To Me! Sig P322 Coyote TACPAC (.22LR pistol, holster, three 20rd mags and accessories) This wont be much of a review as you can go to the previous link and get details straight from Sig and/or read many online reviews and watch plenty of guntoober videos. Overall, the reviews are positive. Plus, I haven't even shot it yet--range day tomorrow!



I've been looking for a .22 pistol to "compete" with in my monthly Action Steel shoots. Not only to save money on ammo, but to also have something my kids/their friends can use to compete/plink with if they choose. I had a KelTec P17 that I used for one competition and the gun's (my) performance was less than stellar. In another post here ($200 "Race" Gun), I outlined the "mods" I did to it such as smoothing sharps and adding grip tape. I sold it to my dot's BF for $200 because (1) he is a good kid, (2) I can use it whenever I want, and (3) I have first option to buy it back for what he paid. The only extra I bought was a mag loader from debay for $15, after FFL the gun stood me $205. ($220 total) It is/was a good little plinker but just too ganky for me to want to keep. It was very accurate and fairly reliable and I would recommend it if you are looking for an inexpensive beginner gun/gift for someone.



Then I got interested in the Taurus TX-22. I was leaning towards the Competition model despite its "weird" appearance because it had some features I was interested in and was well-rated. They range in price from $250 for the Compact model to $400+ for the Comp. In a gun store buying my Rock Island M206 .38 snubnose revolver for $200 BF deal (proceeds from the P17) I handled the TX-22 and I just didn't like the "hump" in the back so that gun was off the table. I DID handle the Sig P322 and decided that would be the next .22 pistol I research.



Researching the P322, I have discovered that markdowns are discouraged by Sig. So everyone seems to be selling them for the same amount. Inventory is also sporadic. I settled on the Coyote TACPAC (CTP) because I like the look and it includes a holster and 3 mags instead of 2. I was also considering the basic black without holster and only 2 mags for $100 less. The going rate for the CTP on GB was $500 free ship. Add to that 6.5% sales tax ($32.50) and $25 FFL fee. The best "deal" I found locally for a CTP was $435 for an "older" stock gun (about a year old) plus 7.5% tax ($32.63) +$5 FFL and I would have had to travel over 2hrs each way and like $50 fuel. If shipped, that would have added $30 + $25 FFL. A black gun "base" package was "On Sale" at a store about 45min away for $400 + $5 + $26 tax. A black/green slide TACPAC was at another store 45min away for $449 + $5 + $31.50. I wasn't crazy about the color combo so that one was out.



While at the Sig website, I noticed they had NRA Instructor discounts and having just become a RSO, I looked at what the CTP would be from them. My price was $390 + $30 S/H + $25.35 tax so about $445 then $25 FFL, total about $470 in my hands. Ordering was fairly effortless, fill out a form, provide instructor #, they called later that day and got CC info, gun shipped out the next day and took about 5 days including the weekend. The holster and spare mag are worth $30 each. They sell a 25rd mag for $40. Some of you probably wouldn't have gone through such motions but part of the thrill of purchase is the hunt...

Some optional models are the Comp and Romeo Zero Elite. I toyed with upping the spend which was $121 and $40 respectively but the optics models do NOT come with the rear sight and I wanted a tan gun so no regrets. All of the P322s are optics-ready, BTW... Sig allows 2 pistol and 2 rifle purchases a year on the discount so maybe I'll get the Comp eventually if I outgrow the Coyote.



Getting ready for the Action Steel this weekend, I determined the included holster will not fit on my cheapie "TEMU" belt. I could make an adapter so it would fit my Safariland knockoff clips ($8?) but I'll do that at a later date. For now I'll use the tan holster I already had for a Glock. TEMU gave me a credit for it because it would release the magazine. You can see where I modified it but it holds the 322 OK. Another issue is the lack of mag pouches for it--I looked and looked and found NOTHING, even on the Sig website! I use the random nylon double-pouch for now. Pushing the clip into the pouch tightens it a little--I have another generic pouch on order. The 322 mags just fall out of the Glock pouches...

 

[Bobster]

UPDATE: I picked up the 322 a week ago Wednesday. Took it to the range Thursday after a dental hygiene visit since I was already halfway there. Brought a variety of ammo to try with it: Aguila, Automatch, M-22 and Mini-mags. Set up some targets and burned about 200 rounds though it in quick succession to "break" it in. There were some issues...

Firstly, the trigger was not returning properly. I could use my off finger to push it forward to get it to reset but that is not conducive to fast shooting. I juiced it up with RemOil which helped a little but the gun was not dry from the factory so I only lightly lubed it initially. It got better after another 100rds.

Secondly, one of the mags was kicking the last round up and out stovepipe-like. While I DID mark the mags, I lost track of which was giving me issues and I also took better care loading the mags and the issue disappeared. As I found out later that evening, there is a specific way to load the mags so they function flawlessly so I will attribute the stove-pipe to user error. These are 20rd mags and will take all 20 with little effort and you will still be able to put a full mag into a gun with closed slide no problem.

Another "issue" was that it was "loud" to me and I opted for my full muffs versus the behind the ear plugs I started with.

It also ejected rounds briskly and well away. They all ended up about 6' to the right and 3' back, all grouped fairly close together.

I found Automatch to work decently so settled on it to be the round I use with it, mainly because I have a couple 1000rds and the local WM usually has it in stock. Accuracy was OK but they all seemed to be going a little left so I adjusted the rear sight a tiny bit. In hindsight, I almost wished I would have picked up an optics-equipped version as the rear sight is plastic and seems flimsy. Plus, the screw to adjust windage uses a tiny allen key that "locks" the sight down. My caliper measured it at 3/64". It is only a matter of time before it strips... My "old" uncorrected eyes were getting used to an RDS...



A man and his father showed up to shoot and we talked quite a bit, looked at each others guns and they tried out the 322 and DaggerWolf. The gun was mostly broke-in by then although the son did experience the trigger hang once. He complimented me on the trigger of the DW which made me happy. I shot his S&W M&P 10mm once which was a first for me. At $1/rd, we agreed I wouldn't be doing a mag dump. Very 45ACPish with a little extra "kick". Also shot his Stribog (whatever that is ) and Ruger Mk4 .22. Good conversation and "extra" shooting easily added an hour to my range time.

I figure I/we probably put 400rds total through the 322 Thursday. I've not the discipline to keep an accurate count as Racer88 does... The gun goes through the 20rd-ers fairly quickly and reliably as long as they are loaded properly.

Later that night I took the time to inspect the 322 and clean it up. I remember now what I didn't like tan guns/slides and that is that they can look REAL dirty after a range event. The schmutz wipes off easily but between the extra RemOil and rounds, the gun got dirty. I think I'm going to install the included threaded adapter to kick the gases a little further away. I'm pretty sure I have an extra thread protector I can use with it. I added a couple chunks of grip tape to give it a better feel but it DOES have plenty of texture.
PS: if you look carefully, you can see one of the flutes in the chamber which eases extraction and improves performance.



The slide is "light" compared to a 9mm. I thought it would be interesting to compare to a Dagger slide. 328g/11.55oz vs 131g/4.6oz for the 322.



I'll create another update on the Action Steel performance and some real nice 45' targets...

 

[Racer88]

Happy birthday! Sounds like a fun time at the range.

 

[Bobster]

UPDATE 2: So no better way to "test" a gun than to throw it into competition, which I did last Saturday at the Action Steel. My previous rear sight adjustment was off as witnessed by my shots hitting the berm which I was then able to make adjustments to my aim and hit the steel. The gun ran fine with only maybe one or two feed issues out of 150ish rounds. Not quite as dirty as the first range trip, but a little...



A BIG problem I had was inadvertently putting the safety on during mag changes. I'd drop the mag, insert a new one, then drop the slide, press the trigger and it wouldn't move! The first time I"m like "WTF?" and I re-rack a round and same thing then I see the safety lever is up... This happened to me maybe three times? I caught the first incident on video with me saying "FUCK!" 4-5 times.

If you look at the "schmutz2" pic above, you can see how far the ambi safety (and slide stop) levers stick out. While easier to manipulate, this also makes them easier to inadvertently apply. The slide stops didn't give me an issue although they are stiff to release probably because the gun is new. I usually pull the slide back to release it and chamber a new round anyway.

Anyhow, I've half a mind to CUT the safety lever off , at least on the left side. DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME! This will no doubt void the warranty and make it a little more difficult to manipulate the safety on or off with the right thumb. If I can get a replacement lever from a Sig "armorer" to put back at a later date, I might just do it. Parts for these guns (and Sigs) are not like Glockish clones and available on every street corner. They have to be ordered from Sig and/or an armorer.

BTW, the 322 is a hammer-fired, single-action-only gun similar to a 1911. Loaded "Safe" is considered "condition 1" as the safety lever cannot be applied unless the non-exposed hammer is cocked by racking the slide.

I had a cap bill mounted video cam (InstaGO360) I used for a few of the stages that showed fairly decent runs for me aside from the occasional miss and the "safety" issue. I think I did OK considering the "new" to me gun. My goal is to not come in last and I was about #50 out of 60. I think my last match I was about #40 out of 60. There always seems to be a stage that I have a snafu that throws my overall score into the dumps. But I AM having fun and look forward to the matches each month. A couple/few stages here and there I've actually come in 1st or 2nd within my group of 10-12 and fairly high in the combined scores, say #20 out of 60.


I'll update once again with the most recent range outing...

 

[Racer88]

UPDATE 2: So no better way to "test" a gun than to throw it into competition, which I did last Saturday at the Action Steel. My previous rear sight adjustment was off as witnessed by my shots hitting the berm which I was then able to make adjustments to my aim and hit the steel. The gun ran fine with only maybe one or two feed issues out of 150ish rounds. Not quite as dirty as the first range trip, but a little...

View attachment 19666

A BIG problem I had was inadvertently putting the safety on during mag changes. I'd drop the mag, insert a new one, then drop the slide, press the trigger and it wouldn't move! The first time I"m like "WTF?" and I re-rack a round and same thing then I see the safety lever is up... This happened to me maybe three times? I caught the first incident on video with me saying "FUCK!" 4-5 times.

If you look at the "schmutz2" pic above, you can see how far the ambi safety (and slide stop) levers stick out. While easier to manipulate, this also makes them easier to inadvertently apply. The slide stops didn't give me an issue although they are stiff to release probably because the gun is new. I usually pull the slide back to release it and chamber a new round anyway.

Anyhow, I've half a mind to CUT the safety lever off , at least on the left side. DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME! This will no doubt void the warranty and make it a little more difficult to manipulate the safety on or off with the right thumb. If I can get a replacement lever from a Sig "armorer" to put back at a later date, I might just do it. Parts for these guns (and Sigs) are not like Glockish clones and available on every street corner. They have to be ordered from Sig and/or an armorer.

BTW, the 322 is a hammer-fired, single-action-only gun similar to a 1911. Loaded "Safe" is considered "condition 1" as the safety lever cannot be applied unless the non-exposed hammer is cocked by racking the slide.

I had a cap bill mounted video cam (InstaGO360) I used for a few of the stages that showed fairly decent runs for me aside from the occasional miss and the "safety" issue. I think I did OK considering the "new" to me gun. My goal is to not come in last and I was about #50 out of 60. I think my last match I was about #40 out of 60. There always seems to be a stage that I have a snafu that throws my overall score into the dumps. But I AM having fun and look forward to the matches each month. A couple/few stages here and there I've actually come in 1st or 2nd within my group of 10-12 and fairly high in the combined scores, say #20 out of 60.

View attachment 19667
I'll update once again with the most recent range outing...

What is this "safety" you speak of?

 

[Alex]

A BIG problem I had was inadvertently putting the safety on during mag changes. I'd drop the mag, insert a new one, then drop the slide, press the trigger and it wouldn't move! The first time I"m like "WTF?" and I re-rack a round and same thing then I see the safety lever is up... This happened to me maybe three times? I caught the first incident on video with me saying "FUCK!" 4-5 times.

If you look at the "schmutz2" pic above, you can see how far the ambi safety (and slide stop) levers stick out. While easier to manipulate, this also makes them easier to inadvertently apply.

The S&W M&P 2.0 has the same issue x3, the safety paddles are GIANT! After shooting a bunch of Glock clones without safeties the M&P became practically non-functional to me as I was constantly bumping the safety up. I had several flavors of that line and sold all but one, but not before shuffling around sear housings to make my favorite subcompact 3.6 inch 9mm into non-manual safety gun. That is something that would never have thought to be an option before learning to make a gun from scratch. There is so much standardization of guns, if you are inclined we have the ability to create a gun that nobody manufacturers.

 

[Bobster]

What is this "safety" you speak of?

Yeah, I know... I have TWO built-in safeties--a right and a left index finger. I forget who I was shooting with at the range, we had the 15-22 out and I load a magazine then go to shoot and nothing then I flick the safety off and exclaim "Who the fuck put the safety on in this gun!"

Just so you know I'm not being a weenie, here is the bottom and top view of the left-side safety and slide stop levers. It is nearly impossible NOT to hit the safety lever with an upward sweep of the thumb. It is too far forward IMO... I'll try to learn the manual of arms for this gun but I've sold guns for less grievous defects...

 

[Bobster]

UPDATE 3: Continuing chronologically, the day after the Action Steel was "Public Day" at my range where I RSOed in the morning, then I took the opportunity to check sighting of the 322 after noon. I only got about a 1/2 hour in before the rain started coming down but I did what I needed to do...

As suspected, the sights were off, so I dialed them in at the 7yd range until I was getting fairly consistent 3-round groups. Then I moved to the 15yd range and was happy with the results. As I have at least a few 1000rds of Automatch, and as it is (currently) available at WM, that will be my "go-to" round for this gun for the time being. Any group sloppiness is purely on me, my eyes and my impatience. I think the gun will do its job if I do mine...



The "EcoSpeed" target was 5rds of German Norma ammo. At 1706fps and 24gr, I bought 500rds "on sale" for less than $0.10/rd to try it out. I figured it might be able to function in a semi-auto but I was mistaken.

Another big "issue" with this ammo is that it is absolutely fucking slimy! Not just a little lubricant, but enough that, being prudent, I feel the need to wipe EVERY round off which is tedious at best... I've been trying to give it away here and there, I think I'm down to 300rds...



Back to not running in a semi-auto, I think I was getting maybe 50% cycling out of the S&W 15-22. Enough FTFs that I didn't even finish a full mag before emptying out. Keep in mind that any EcoSpeed rounds that have entered any of my guns have been wiped clean. Back to the 322, ES effectively and reliably turned it into a single-shot. No stovepipes, no double-feeds or anything. Fire a shot, manually rack the slide ejecting the spent case and feeding another from the mag, then fire another shot. I WAS quite impressed with its performance at 15yds! (see target above) Again flyers are on me... It would be a great round for a bolt-action, maybe even a precision rimfire.

PS: I donated a box of ES tonight to be given away as one of my club's monthly meeting door prizes. Guy sitting next to me happened to choose it as his "prize". He had been wanting to try it in his bolt gun and I certainly let him know how it was on the slimy side. I had also added a message to the side of it as well ("accurate, not for semi, clean b4 shooting"). I won a bottle of RemOil.

 

[Bobster]

UPDATE 4: I took a couple more pics of the safety. I think I can cut it/reduce the size "in place" after taping up openings and such so grit doesn't enter the gun. I NEED to see if I can get a new one ordered so I can return the gun back to stock down the road. There is a guy on gootoob, "The Sig Guy", that has a very thorough, if not lengthy VIDEO on how to disassemble/reassemble the 322. I don't necessarily want to take it down far enough to remove the safety lever because it is "deep" in the chassis. I DID push a couple pins out to remove the chassis but that is as far as I went. I don't really want to "disable" the safety lever, just make it less obtrusive and able to be flicked on pushing in and up in the groove. I would even consider a small drop of weld to make a "nub" but no way I'd do that with the lever installed for fear of heat migration into the trigger assy.



Holsters: I used a "free" warranty (don't return) holster from TEMU and a rando KCI double-mag-pouch I had which worked OK in the Action Steel. Meanwhile, I had ordered some goodies from TEMU which came Monday after my last range trip (and Public Day). Interestingly and coincidentally, every item was $5.48. Total with tax/free shipping was about $24. The dump pouch is pretty nice and I'll probably get a couple more down the road. I bought a couple more of the belts and I'm going to set one up for my son so he can compete without having to readjust any of MY belts which would drop down to his ankles due to my increased girth... The 322 mags fit in the pouch well and should not fall out if I decide to do any jumping jacks...



In my quest to keep a clean muzzle area, I figured I'd install the included suppressor/compensator adapter on the end of the barrel to keep gases further away from the slide. Since I didn't want to leave the 1/2-28 threads exposed, I looked in the AR parts bin for a thread protector and happened to find a lightly used $5 3-prong "wire-cutter" flash hider and installed it. Keep in mind the barrel is fixed. Either way, with thread-protector or flash hider (or comp or can) tools will be needed to remove the adapter to get the slide all the way off. The flash hider adds welcome weight and I don't think it will affect point of impact . The gun was dragging a tiny bit coming out so I DID have to relieve the end of the holster a little and since the stone really wasn't doing anything, I left it in place and heated the end of the holster with a heat gun to expand it. Now the gun goes in and out fine. I may weld up the bottom opening of the flash hider and "clock" the top "ports" by sanding down the washer a little. By clocking at 60 and 300 degrees maybe I'll end up with a po' man's compensator?



I'm not using the included Sig holster because it will have to be adapted to my rig (my belt is too wide). If and when I DO put a RDS on this gun, I will take the time to adapt it. They DO make a competion holster for this gun but it is like $70 and I don't know if I'm that dedicated yet... That is the 3rd pic below.

 

[Bobster]

I may weld up the bottom opening of the flash hider and "clock" the top "ports" by sanding down the washer a little. By clocking at 60 and 300 degrees maybe I'll end up with a po' man's compensator?

UPDATE 5, Ghetto Comp:
Thinking how EASY it would be to fill the flash hider opening with weld, I sanded the crush washer to get the FH to clock where I wanted it. I rubbed it back and forth about 10 times on the (stationary) horizontal belt sander platen, 120grit belt installed--it didn't take much. This part was way too small to try to sand on a moving belt nor did it need that much material removal. Pic shows the 1/2-28 thread adapter included from Sig. The barrel normally just has a small threaded cap on the end with a couple flats for a wrench which retains the washer and recoil spring.



I sanded most of the coating off in the opening I would be filling in. I marked with silver Sharpie so I would know which one to fill in. Since normally Fe won't weld to Al, I jammed a 1/4" Al rod into the opening. Several small welds to fill around the rod without welding ON it which produced spatter--oops! The Fe DID melt into the rod a little but it was easily pried away.



A little outside work with a flap disk, then the purple disk and a minor amount of filing on the inside. Some Cold Blue to make it less obvious and there it is. I'm going to say this is about 10-15min start to finish. I could have spent more time welding and finishing but this is an "experiment". If it works--GREAT! It may not even work and/or affect accuracy then it is coming off. I think the welds will hold out fine against the massive pressures of .22LR. I'm sure they would even survive with 5.56 but what is the worst that would happen if they didn't?

 

[Racer88]

I know nothing about Sigs. But cool!