Question Has anyone added serial numbers to their builds.

[Michele]

you must have posted as I was writing. Wondering if the other methods mentioned are deep enough. I know there is a ATF recommended dept and such, I know I read it on some forum, maybe on here somewhere, I can't remember.

Etching works great. Warm the metal plate before applying (of course not too hot as to melt the frame) Carefully press down to ensure contact especially at the edges. The stencil will stick to the plate better. Can apply electricity in a dabbing motion (do not rub) long enough to get a deep etch OR fill the area with solution and let that do the work. Submerging the stencil method allows everything be evenly etched at the same time. Really doesn’t take that long using either method.


Some members here have used both methods with good results.

Here’s a photo of a stainless slide I etched, it’s pretty deep. Think that was 10 minutes, maybe. For comparison to .003, common copy paper is .004. (PS- for future ref: current regs (depth) is linked on the pg racer offered on etching serial numbers)

 

[brian]

I went to an ffl/ gunsmith in my area, small one guy with a family operation. He engraved 10 frames for $100. Some might think it high but I got it done in a little over an hour. Considering how much I have invested in my builds $10 apiece wasn’t bad.

There are a couple of FFLs around me who have an engraver. I had one of them engrave a flamethrower for me and they even let me behind the counter to watch it. I guess if we wanted to have an identifying mark put on it w/o being entered in the books we can do it before making a modification to the frame/while it is still in 80% or 76% status?

 

[no4mk1t]

There are a couple of FFLs around me who have an engraver. I had one of them engrave a flamethrower for me and they even let me behind the counter to watch it. I guess if we wanted to have an identifying mark put on it w/o being entered in the books we can do it before making a modification to the frame/while it is still in 80% or 76% status?

Even a factory firearm taken to a gunsmith for work is not entered into his bound book if the work is done while you wait...

 

[brian]

Even a factory firearm taken to a gunsmith for work is not entered into his bound book if the work is done while you wait...

Understood. Not sure how some of the places would feel about engraving a completed 80% even while you wait given the current environment.

 

[no4mk1t]

Understood. Not sure how some of the places would feel about engraving a completed 80% even while you wait given the current environment.

That's why it's best to get them engraved first.

 

[Bobster]

no

 

[seniormoment]

There are a couple of FFLs around me who have an engraver. I had one of them engrave a flamethrower for me and they even let me behind the counter to watch it. I guess if we wanted to have an identifying mark put on it w/o being entered in the books we can do it before making a modification to the frame/while it is still in 80% or 76% status?

What I was told is that unless it stays overnight they don't need to enter it into their inventory. I believe that is with any gun repair.

 

[Bongo Lewi]

I cant get the depth 'recommended' with my laser rig but the number is visible and permanent. You cant eradicate the number off the gun without it being obvious.

The possibility of one of my guns being stolen is pretty remote, but I suppose it could happen. My main reason doing it is for my own record keeping, insurance, and also to eliminate any objections or reluctance on the part of a buyer if I decided to sell it. Also, brokers wont touch a firearm that has no S/N. Unless it is certifiably an antique without a serial number. BTW: I have 100+ year old guns with serial numbers. Applied long before Uncle Sam required it for licensed manufacturers. Its false guns didn't have serial numbers until the US government made it mandatory in 1968. Anybody who repeats that nonsense is incorrect. Going back to the American Civil War, weapons like the Springfield 1861 had serial numbers. These were sometimes referred to as 'production numbers'.

 

[no4mk1t]

Its false guns didn't have serial numbers until the US government made it mandatory in 1968. Anybody who repeats that nonsense is incorrect. Going back to the American Civil War, weapons like the Springfield 1861 had serial numbers. These were sometimes referred to as 'production numbers'.

Well, kinda.
Low cost 22's and shotguns often didn't have serial numbers prior to 1968. I have two 22 caliber rifles that do not have serial numbers. It was a cost saving measure by the manufacturers.
Marlin's flagship rimfire lever gun was the model 39A. It has always had a number. In the 50's, Marlin introduced the model 56 as a lower cost option for a boys first rifle. The two rifles mentioned above are model 56's. The very early production model 56's did have numbers. The Marlin bean counters saw a way to save some money and quit numbering them as it was not required by law. I've also seen several single shot 22's from the first half of the 20th Century that had no numbers as well.

 

[Bongo Lewi]

@no4mk1t I did not say all guns and you are correct. The 22LR is an interesting example. The perception of the rimfire was different not that long ago. The 22 was a gun that was a fixture in rural households and 12 year olds were given them as gifts. An upgrade of sorts from bb and pellet guns. A lot of kids (like me) learned about firearms with a rimfire. There were more refined and higher priced rimfire guns like the Marlin, but cheap 22s were ubiquitous. Mail order guns. Same goes for small pocket pistols. There were cheap ones and not so cheap. The small Beretta "cats" have always had a number. Some of the cheap imports and even US made junk before '68 didn't.

My only point was serial numbers are not something the government invented for guns. Manufacturers of all stripes saw the benefit of being able to identify in what run a product was made since Abe Lincoln was President. I've read comments from online paranoid gun owners who believe serial numbers represent something recent and sprang from a mandate by T-men or Atee Eff as an infringement.

For a pistol or rifle you build yourself... if some choose not to serialize personally I don't care. No law says you have to. Good luck selling it. Or leaving the problem of what to do with unserialized guns to your executor. We are all going to die someday.

 

[Racer88]

For a pistol or rifle you build yourself... if some choose not to serialize personally I don't care. No law says you have to. Good luck selling it.

No plans to sell any. I've never sold any of my guns. It's against my religion!

Or leaving the problem of what to do with unserialized guns to your executor.

Simply not worried about that. I'd be leaving them to my children. My dad has several old guns (pre-1968) without serial numbers. No worries about passing them on to me and my brothers and sisters. It's simply not an issue. Legally or otherwise.

 

[serger]

I have had some of the 80% 1911's I built lasered
by the frame peddler when they sold them to me.
There is also a trophy guy who engraves. I had him
mark the barrels of a couple hunting rifles I built
with the calibers of the rifles. He could do plastic
P80's all day.

I thought of embossing my Glock clones with the
serial numbers of the slides but need to practice
doing it so the alphanumeric's don't look bad.

The biggest problem people have with safes I've
seen is they make them conspicuous. Locally, on
the weekends you can drive around and see safes
in peoples garages. They don't put them in hidden
locations because good safes are heavy and hard
to move. I have always put mine in back rooms or
basements so theft from them would be hard.

Most B&E types want to get in, get the stuff, and
get out quickly. If you keep you mouth shut those
folks won't show up at your house with a grinder
and cutting torch to peel your safe because they
want to get in and do their thing without getting
caught. Since YOU didn't blab to anyone, they
don't know you have a safe.

Being gray is a thing some people for the life of
them can't do......... Everybody here knows the
"See Me, See Me's" who brag about what they have.

Thieves have ears too.

 

[GuitarmanNick]

I took one AR and 4 Glock clone lowers into a local gunsmith. He engraved them and entered them into his bound book to comply with the BATFE rule that required them to serialize any "gun" encountered. He used a laser engraver.

When he gave them back to me, he told me they are now transferable under federal law which was surely not the intent of the new BATFE rule.

I only did this so I could carry any of my builds legally in my home state of Marylandistan.

My other AR lowers are serialized using unique numbers that I provided and were registered with the state as required by their law. It is unconstitutional, but if I want to shoot them in the state, it is best if they are engraved with at least one method.

In any event, they are all uniquely identifiable if stolen.

 

[Chwillbill68]

Etching works great. Warm the metal plate before applying (of course not too hot as to melt the frame) Carefully press down to ensure contact especially at the edges. The stencil will stick to the plate better. Can apply electricity in a dabbing motion (do not rub) long enough to get a deep etch OR fill the area with solution and let that do the work. Submerging the stencil method allows everything be evenly etched at the same time. Really doesn’t take that long using either method.


Some members here have used both methods with good results.

Here’s a photo of a stainless slide I etched, it’s pretty deep. Think that was 10 minutes, maybe. For comparison to .003, common copy paper is .004. (PS- for future ref: current regs (depth) is linked on the pg racer offered on etching serial numbers)
View attachment 18891

So does the etching works on all metals? I assume they have to be bare, like I would need to remove the black on the side of my AR lower, where I wanted it at?

 

[brian]

I thought of embossing my Glock clones with the
serial numbers of the slides but need to practice
doing it so the alphanumeric's don't look bad.

I've used custom ordered stencils from Dogfight Ink to etch an "identifying mark" to match the Glock S/N for builds using OEM uppers.

 

[Bobster]

So does the etching works on all metals? I assume they have to be bare, like I would need to remove the black on the side of my AR lower, where I wanted it at?

I think any etching, chemical or fiber laser, if it will remove aluminum, will also remove anodizing. Anodizing is technically aluminum-oxide.

 

[Michele]

So does the etching works on all metals? I assume they have to be bare, like I would need to remove the black on the side of my AR lower, where I wanted it at?

Yes it works on all metals. You are correct it must be bare metal. If it’s painted or sealed with adhesive of some sort that area will not etch. Thus, use of stick on stencils to etch. As mentioned by Brian, dogfight ink sells stencils. They have AR specific items. AL etches quickly.

 

[GrowleyMonster]

I won't be putting any serial numbers. However, to assist in potential theft recovery, I might put cereal numbers instead. Like CountChocula001 or PostToasties007EssentialVitamins or CapnCrunch88 and so on. I have used electro-etching on razors I have made, and chem etching, but recently I bought a 20w laser engraver and I am spoiling for an excuse and the time to break it in. I'm not big on stamping. I don't care to beat my guns up with hammers. CNC routering/engraving is another option but I have not tried that.

 

[Racer88]

I won't be putting any serial numbers. However, to assist in potential theft recovery, I might put cereal numbers instead. Like CountChocula001 or PostToasties007EssentialVitamins or CapnCrunch88 and so on. I have used electro-etching on razors I have made, and chem etching, but recently I bought a 20w laser engraver and I am spoiling for an excuse and the time to break it in. I'm not big on stamping. I don't care to beat my guns up with hammers. CNC routering/engraving is another option but I have not tried that.

Froot Loops for me!

 

[Bongo Lewi]

Lucky Charms for me