How Many Lowers is One Router Bit Good For?

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I know the answer can vary due to aluminum type, plunger depth, and skill, but I am asking for information to see if there's a consensus.
Any advice?
 
It will last a long time. But you will have to sharpen in after every use. A HSS bit dulls down cutting aluminum, even when lubed and cooled during the cut. So, if you want to do a lot of aluminum, get used to sharpening the bits after every use.
 
It will last a long time. But you will have to sharpen in after every use. A HSS bit dulls down cutting aluminum, even when lubed and cooled during the cut. So, if you want to do a lot of aluminum, get used to sharpening the bits after every use.
Are you referring to every item that comes in a drilling/routing kit, or just certain ones? I was mainly referring to the main cutting bit that attaches to the router and don't know if that's what you were speaking of.
 
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The end mill that comes with the 5D Tactical jig is carbide. When I asked this question at the time the jig was purchased, they told me "about 4 lowers". But they also recommend using WD-40 for a lubricant.
If you use a good lube, and make light cuts to keep from getting the end mill too hot, it will last longer.
I use Tap Magic for aluminum and have cut 7 receivers so far. Still making clean cuts.
 
Are you referring to every item that comes in a drilling/routing kit, or just certain ones? I was mainly referring to the main cutting bit that attaches to the router and don't know if that's what you were speaking of.
All of them. HSS (High Speed Steel) is typical of the type of steel used to make the cutting edge of the router bit. You take out of the package it is already sharp. As soon use start using it to cut, it starts to dull. After milling out a AR, it is probably still fairly sharp, but I would take a sharpening stone to it before doing another one. Same goes for drill bits.

Carbide bits are a bit more brittle, but you can sharpen then as well.
 
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Replacement end mill from 5D is only $28. You can extended life of end mill using lubricant. If your doing more than few then buying extra end mill might be good investment.
 
I've done six with my original bit with no perceivable change in performance, so I'd guess it's good for 10? Maybe more, but I dunno. I've used only spray silicone/teflon oil applied for each depth increment. Good idea to have an extra end mill on hand.
 
You have to do 10 lowers to justify cost of the jig right?

The question should be...

"One end mill good for 10 AR lower?" :unsure:
 
A carbide end mill should be good for more than 30 lowers. The only way to sharpen carbide is with a diamond grinding wheel. Aluminum is very easy for carbide to cut. HSS will become worn quickly. FWIW, I'm a cutting tool Engineer.
 
If you are slow and careful AND wait for the router to come to a complete stop before lifting it, they will last for quite a few lowers.
If you get impatient and lift the router while it's still spinning down, thinking "I can lift it straight up (Hint, you probably can't), they don't last as long.

Or, if you find that the depth setting changed after you locked it in and end up with the mill trying to cut more than it should be and try to just power through it you will quickly need a new replacement end mill.

Please don't ask how I know these things. 🤣🤣🤣🤣
 
If you are slow and careful AND wait for the router to come to a complete stop before lifting it, they will last for quite a few lowers.
If you get impatient and lift the router while it's still spinning down, thinking "I can lift it straight up (Hint, you probably can't), they don't last as long.

Or, if you find that the depth setting changed after you locked it in and end up with the mill trying to cut more than it should be and try to just power through it you will quickly need a new replacement end mill.

Please don't ask how I know these things. 🤣🤣🤣🤣
^^^This^^^
Light cuts.
Plenty of lube.
Let the mill cut. Don't force it to cut faster than it can handle.
Wait for the router to stop like Karl said. If it touches the jig while still spinning, you will break a tooth off...if you're lucky.
Ear and eye pro mandatory.
 
A foot switch for the router is a good (and relatively low-cost) idea.
 
I'm on #5 with my 5D end mill. Seems to cut as good as it did on the first one.
 
80% Arms Gen 2, Makita Router, harbor freight vice mounted on bench to clamp it in. I'm on my second jig in 8 or 9 years, and typically avg 8-10 lowers per router bit.
 
At 7 aluminum and 3 polymer lowers on current carbide end mill on Gen 3 Easy Jig from 80% Arms. Hope to get a few more before replacing. I have learned to slow down, lots of lube (have used both WD40 and some stuff from Harbor Freight for thread cutting), take smaller cuts, and let the jig come to complete stop before removing. With my initial Gen 1 Easy Jig, I was lucky to get 4 lowers. But as others said, it is all in how careful you are with it.
 
I've been thinking of getting (2) 1/32 inch feeler gauges to set the depth for each pass as sometimes the marks on the Gen 3 jig seem too far apart.

I'd put one feeler gauge on each side of the jog and lower the router down till the mill hits the aluminum and then move it to the starting hole
 
I'm about to tackle some JamesMadisonTactical (polymer) lowers and these posts are great timing. We have the 5D tactical Pro jig setup, Makita router, and I think a foot controller is a VERY good idea. Any suggestions for one in particular? Thanks!!
 
I've been thinking of getting (2) 1/32 inch feeler gauges to set the depth for each pass as sometimes the marks on the Gen 3 jig seem too far apart.

I'd put one feeler gauge on each side of the jog and lower the router down till the mill hits the aluminum and then move it to the starting hole
If you don't trust the depth marks on your router, or if somehow your router doesn't HAVE a depth gauge, then on the Gen 2 or 3 jigs just run the mill at half-steps instead of full steps. Taking your time IS the key on this, as it seems most here already know, so it doesn't take much to eye the router base adapter against the jig before setting the end-mill in the center-hole just to be sure it isn't going to cut too deep. A feeler gauge is definitely a way to make certain those cut-depths are consistent, but if you are careful and paying close attention to the router's gauge and the jig's depth-marks, that should be plenty good enough, and 'consistent' isn't really important for end-mill longevity, it only matters for OCD purposes... Which I am sure NONE of us here suffer from (I suspect most of us love every minute of it, it is probably our SPOUSES who suffer from our OCD! :ROFLMAO: ).

Another suggestion is running a router with a 'soft start' option, that spools up to speed quickly, but not instantly. This is beneficial mostly since the end-mill will be in at least light contact with the receiver at start-up, and initial torque is likely to pull the router and the end-mill into the material before it is up to speed and potentially with some force (I love the foot-operated switch suggestion -at least that way you can have both hands on the router at start-up without fiddling for the switch). The 'soft start' reduces or eliminates that initial torque-reaction.
 
On the subject if end mills, who has a good source for replacments for easy jig gen3? 80% arms is showing out of stock on all jigs and jig parts and all tooling for AR jigs. I'm hoping this doesn't mean they are no longer selling them...
 

Found this one, may go for it.
 
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