New Money pit

Stephen G

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Picked this up yesterday, ya know because maybe 1 day the doctors will actually release me drive IN WRITING.
130k miles 4.6L 4x4. Has a skip but runs and stops. We'll see where it goes from there.
1st on the list is front and rear glass.
20230130_141441.jpg
 
Mines a 98 aluminum intake, 4x shift factory floor
 
Looking forward to your build....I have a 2000, I bought new. 5.4 4X4 still running all the original light bulbs in that thing....
 
"has a skip"...plug wire grounding-out maybe? probably a simple fix.
 
"has a skip"...plug wire grounding-out maybe? probably a simple fix.
No plug wires on a Triton engine, direct coil-on-plug. BUT, the 'boot' between the two is a potential problem. FAR more likely the coil itself. Ford is on something like their 7th Generation epoxy formulation for those coils. Unfortunately, when the coils fail, they have a slim chance of back-feeding secondary (high voltage) voltage back into the computer and frying it. In this case though, it is most likely that one of the coils has failed in the more common way, and is simply not firing properly anymore. Cheap enough fix, but one or two of them are a bitch to get out unless you have a flex-head 7mm ratcheting-wrench because of the placement of the fuel rail and lines.

At the same time, replacing the plugs while you are swapping out a bad coil(s) is a good idea/bad idea... Some years had too many threads on the plugs and they tended to snap off inside the heads during replacement, the other years had too few threads on the plugs and were known for blowing the plugs out and stripping the heads, requiring a Helicoil insert to fix them. Very difficult considering half the engine was crammed underneath the windshield in that truck. So, a lot of owners that might otherwise have maintained their F-150 properly instead ride those plugs into the ground.

...Not that I know anything about Ford engines, mind you.;) Not a thing...
 
No plug wires on a Triton engine, direct coil-on-plug. BUT, the 'boot' between the two is a potential problem. FAR more likely the coil itself. Ford is on something like their 7th Generation epoxy formulation for those coils. Unfortunately, when the coils fail, they have a slim chance of back-feeding secondary (high voltage) voltage back into the computer and frying it. In this case though, it is most likely that one of the coils has failed in the more common way, and is simply not firing properly anymore. Cheap enough fix, but one or two of them are a bitch to get out unless you have a flex-head 7mm ratcheting-wrench because of the placement of the fuel rail and lines.

At the same time, replacing the plugs while you are swapping out a bad coil(s) is a good idea/bad idea... Some years had too many threads on the plugs and they tended to snap off inside the heads during replacement, the other years had too few threads on the plugs and were known for blowing the plugs out and stripping the heads, requiring a Helicoil insert to fix them. Very difficult considering half the engine was crammed underneath the windshield in that truck. So, a lot of owners that might otherwise have maintained their F-150 properly instead ride those plugs into the ground.

...Not that I know anything about Ford engines, mind you.;) Not a thing...
You're correct. I've never changed plugs in a box truck that I bought for the very reasons you state. 1998 5.4L Triton. Most people who own these engines and are DIY mechanics often don't know the pitfalls with what first appears to be a straightforward job. Caveat emptor buying a used Ford and pray as you turn that wrench counter clockwise to loosen the plugs!

Snap-on sells a specific kit for this spark plug problem that is well known among shops. Includes taps, helicoils, special Loctite for the extractors and proper length extensions and extractors to do the job if you ever need to do it. I would suggest not buying an Autozone kit and bust out and buy the Snap On version if you're confronted with this issue. My friend owned a shop for 25 years and this is his suggestion. I also have a pretty deep automotive past. You don't want to have to remove the cylinder head if your cheapo tool doesn't do the job. This is not a time to skimp. You also want to ensure that you grease up your taps very well to catch shavings as best that you can. Follow it with a good vaccum and try to seal everything tight as you can while vaccuming the hole after the tap job to remove the shavings. There's a whole process that Ford posted on their TSBs about dealing with the fix.

In a box truck (a 1-ton van chassis basically), half the engine is submerged deep under the firewall overhang covering a majority of the spark plug holes. My truck has a doghouse, but it's still super tight to the valve covers and the head. Who wants to pull an engine because you can't get to a broken spark plug or stripped, blown-out hole. Perhaps it can be done without pulling the engine in the worst case scenario with a couple of holes having poor access.

If someone does decide to do plugs on a Triton, I would suggest installing the best plugs you can buy if you plan to keep the truck for a long time. You want plugs that will give you a shit ton of miles. It's also a good idea to ask a prior owner if they ever had the plugs changed before buying a vehicle that has a Triton. Depending on how many miles have passed, you may not want to risk pulling the plugs. You could also ask them if they put the copper anti-seize on the plugs when they replaced them. It goes without saying that you want to use anti-seize whenever replacing ANY spark plugs, not just these. The upside is you can use anti-seize on gun stuff too. Like the grooves on a P80 upper slide. You don't need much on the slide and it can make a mess if you use too much.

Amazon product ASIN B000HBM8HU
View: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-09128-Copper-Anti-Seize-Lubricant/dp/B000HBM8HU
@Stephen G Not trying to scare you about some issues, but the spark plug problem is a real issue and wanted to let you know about it if you were unaware of it. You may want to read this article.


It's accurate about dealing with the removal of the plugs. The part about using carb cleaner mid-way and letting it soak into the threads is good advice. Also, the advice about tightening and loosening the plugs slightly once you have it loosened a bit. I have read the TSB's years ago and I recall a similar process described in my friend's automotive software in his business.

I don't know if the AllData subscription for consumers may have the TSB's listed and further advice, but if you subscribe to it, you may want to read up on the TSBs for spark plugs on Fords during this era.

 
No plug wires on a Triton engine, direct coil-on-plug. BUT, the 'boot' between the two is a potential problem. FAR more likely the coil itself. Ford is on something like their 7th Generation epoxy formulation for those coils. Unfortunately, when the coils fail, they have a slim chance of back-feeding secondary (high voltage) voltage back into the computer and frying it. In this case though, it is most likely that one of the coils has failed in the more common way, and is simply not firing properly anymore. Cheap enough fix, but one or two of them are a bitch to get out unless you have a flex-head 7mm ratcheting-wrench because of the placement of the fuel rail and lines.

At the same time, replacing the plugs while you are swapping out a bad coil(s) is a good idea/bad idea... Some years had too many threads on the plugs and they tended to snap off inside the heads during replacement, the other years had too few threads on the plugs and were known for blowing the plugs out and stripping the heads, requiring a Helicoil insert to fix them. Very difficult considering half the engine was crammed underneath the windshield in that truck. So, a lot of owners that might otherwise have maintained their F-150 properly instead ride those plugs into the ground.

...Not that I know anything about Ford engines, mind you.;) Not a thing...
Yup, das boot & wiring. They can and do break down from heat. I remember when they switched to that setup. It does make for a cleaner arrangement under the hood. Been working on cars since I was 13 and have seen so many changes. That engine crammed under the cowl is akin to changing plugs on 68 firebird….not fun….did fleet maint for a PUC for two decades before transferring to another dept and worked on all sorts of equipment from trailers, Dollie’s and forklifts to heavy trucks and everything in between. I don’t miss it. Lol got away from it in 2000.
 
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Theres a few years they had issue with the Triton engines but mostly 5.4L. Plowing plugs out, locking up due to coolent leaks due to shit engineering of the crossover and swap to plastic intake. Think around 2002 they went to coil over on plugs. This has a coil pack (2) with wires.

Ive got 8 super dutys 96 to 2005 that have up to 300K miles with aluminum intake or swapped to. Make that 7 my work truck is 2foot shorter and twisted in the middle now lol.
Most issues with 4.6L came in the Lincoln.
Biggest issue with these were the freaking plug grommet.Next to impossible to reseat once you pull them, that and debris getting down ther then falling into cylinder when changing plugs.

Swapped plugs and wires, running on all 8 like a scalded ape. I have 2foot closet dowel and rubber mallet to seat the grommet in the head.

Looks like cyl 3, 6 an 7 didnt have the wires seated correctly and #8 had never been changed at all. #6 plyg wire was remove with 1 finger so I know it wasn't firing smh.
 
Theres a few years they had issue with the Triton engines but mostly 5.4L. Plowing plugs out, locking up due to coolent leaks due to shit engineering of the crossover and swap to plastic intake. Think around 2002 they went to coil over on plugs. This has a coil pack (2) with wires.

Ive got 8 super dutys 96 to 2005 that have up to 300K miles with aluminum intake or swapped to. Make that 7 my work truck is 2foot shorter and twisted in the middle now lol.
Most issues with 4.6L came in the Lincoln.
Biggest issue with these were the freaking plug grommet.Next to impossible to reseat once you pull them, that and debris getting down ther then falling into cylinder when changing plugs.

Swapped plugs and wires, running on all 8 like a scalded ape. I have 2foot closet dowel and rubber mallet to seat the grommet in the head.

Looks like cyl 3, 6 an 7 didnt have the wires seated correctly and #8 had never been changed at all. #6 plyg wire was remove with 1 finger so I know it wasn't firing smh.
Oops -sorry -I read @Secret Squirrel 's post about having a 2000 and mixed that up, thought that was yours. They had C.O.P. in 2000.
Glad you got it sorted out.(y)
 
We have a '98 Expedition with the 5.4.
There's a little more room to get around with the 4.6 engines, but the plugs can still surely be a bear.
Patience was the greatest tool when I changed the plugs in our truck, accompanied by the frequent curses upon the families of the cubicle-dwelling, Barbie-handed engineers that designed such a set up.
We've had one plug blow out about 5 or so years back. Plugs tend to blow because the "tech" installing them gets in a hurry, doesn't make sure the plug is threaded appropriately, and cranks them in with a ratchet pulling the threads. Particularly the back two plugs.

They are solid engines if taken care of, so I'll probably just cuss and continue to change them myself until it dies.

/K
 
Think 2015 they went coil over only in the F series trucks. They had tons of issues with Lincoln car, navigator and couple others.
But that goes for all cars, some yr/ model are complete shit. Others are rock solid.
 
Itll allsort itself out 1day lmao
 
6-11-23#17.JPG
I have a "little" experience with my 5.4 two valve.

The 3v's which are some (non heritage models and up) are known for breaking plugs. The earlier year 97-02ish have 3-4 threads for the spark plugs and are known to plug plugs out. Ford only recommends Time Cert for spark plug thread repair. Only use Time Sert.

As for COPs, only use oem or Denso part number 673-6000 (this is a rebranded OEM).

Spark plugs are easy. Get some extensions and swivels out then have at it.
 
Here is some important information about selecting kits for the 2 valve and 3 valve engines. The spark plug orientation is different.

I have indexed the video near the end where this is addressed:

View: https://youtu.be/UFVWBxCTDNs?t=1097
 
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