Question New p80 frame tool ideas?

Michele

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While we all wait for the new frames to ship….

Been thinking about tools and methods to use on the new p80 frames. There was a hot wire cutter method mentioned on another post. Looking for other ideas from the community. What do you think ?

I’m thinking a micro oscillating tool may be a good choice to try. I’m wonderful if anyone has seen or is aware of such a tool. Small enough to fit into the small areas that need removal and hold in the hand comfortably to get precision.


BTW- already checked micro mark for oscillating tool

Edit- what do you peeps think about these:
A) Micro sander -video
B) Toothbrush sander - video

3d printed drill guides 1675790793979.jpeg
 
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The phrase that literally just came to mind was MGB with the fret cutters "Give it the old Sniparoony" 🤣. To be honest the next thing that came to mind was a blade / chisel set. New ideas hmm 🤔. I'll get back to ya I'm stumped.
 
As I mentioned before, not trying to be a 'scratched' record (broken records really don't repeat -they may make a blip of sound once before tearing-up your needle, what a dumb-ass analogy -think about it 🤪😅),
1675154270145.png


but I think the gridwork in the Trigger Housing area may be thin and brittle enough to take out with needle-nose pliers... A little twist and a yank 'c-r-a-c-k'. Out in pieces.


Clean-up with a scraping-action from either an X-Acto-knife:

Or an actual scraping tool:


The #4 X-Acto 'Chisel' blade would probably make clean, quick work of the small tabs molded in to block the legs of the FRLB too.

Turn the blade around in the handle, super-glue some 400-grit around it, and wet-sand until the OCD is satisfied...


Looks like an old PF940C jig modified for the now-undrilled foremost FRLB Pin-Hole will be needed here, or Rook's jig once updated, but that is part of another thread...
(Hint:);)
1675155209256.png
 
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While we all wait for the new frames to ship….

Been thinking about tools and methods to use on the new p80 frames. There was a hot wire cutter method mentioned on another post. Looking for other ideas from the community. What do you think ?

I’m thinking a micro oscillating tool may be a good choice to try. I’m wonderful if anyone has seen or is aware of such a tool. Small enough to fit into the small areas that need removal and hold in the hand comfortably to get precision.


BTW- already checked micro mark for oscillating tool

Edit- what do you peeps think about these:
A) Micro sander -video
B) Toothbrush sander - video
By yours truly...


View: https://odysee.com/@PatriotGunBuilders:6/Using-the-Micro-Sander-to-Finish-P80-Channel-and-Tabs:9
 
We’ve seen some really foul looking work on these new frames. Anyone wanna brain storm here ? Just toss your ideas out there. All thoughts welcome. As a collective I know this group will come up with tools to get the materials out of the frame with 100% top quality results.

Let me toss this out there :
Found a cheap knock off of micro mark sander$43 Amazon 👈🏼 link The rounded barrel shaped sanding attachment should clean up the rear rail area after removing the fins. The tool attachments are plastic they can be modified/ snipped to fit into small areas.

75414C4B-01CB-4DD3-8733-CC7BE365FA2F.jpeg

I’m looking at dental tools and micro surgery implements get ideas to aide in removing the fins at the real rail area and blocks in the other areas.

Modify the plastic tool attachment by adding a micro bone saw or exato blade to make a micro oscillating tool. I’d think this could cut through plastic like butter. I’m going to try the exato blade out soon as I get the sanding tool.
8843EB86-748B-4A20-9168-E5E4212A9A58.jpeg141391AA-4AAB-4CC8-B577-AEDFDFFBCC07.jpeg96FDEC6D-23DB-4F20-A72C-50D1134C008D.jpeg

A couple weeks ago someone brought up using a hot knife. That maybe a way to go at it. I’d like to hear /see some of your thoughts
 
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@Michele and I were talking about this by PM. I've been invoking my Google-fu to a great extent today trying to find SOMEthing that would work like the micro-sander, but with tiny little saw blades.

I just found this gizmo. But it's PRICEY. And the narrow extension may not be long enough. And it appears it has only one kind / shape of blade.

 
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...At first glance, I thought, "Going into plastic, you probably need oil (mineral) as a lubricant..." Looking at your link, if I read this right, this is a kickstarter 'pre-order' sort of deal, and at $409, DEFINITELY get your lube!!:ROFLMAO:

Sorry man, hard pass here, even with skepticism aside.
 
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...At first glance, I thought, "Going into plastic, you probably need oil (mineral) as a lubricant..." Looking at your link, if I read this right, this is a kickstarter 'pre-order' sort of deal, and at $409, DEFINITELY get your lube!!:ROFLMAO:

Sorry man, hard pass here, even with skepticism aside.
Yeah.. pricey. Looks like it's the sequel to that other one. But a neat concept. I bet it would work a charm.
 
...At first glance, I thought, "Going into plastic, you probably need oil (mineral) as a lubricant..." Looking at your link, if I read this right, this is a kickstarter 'pre-order' sort of deal, and at $409, DEFINITELY get your lube!!:ROFLMAO:

Sorry man, hard pass here, even with skepticism aside.
I don't even think the Snap-On man will make you bend over that far!
 

The video says it has specialized blades.
What they really meant by the wording is that replacement blades are ordered exclusively from them at probably $10-20 a whack. I can pretty much guarantee it will be at least $ 4.95 per blade just to pay for that guy's pompous :cool: sounding voice over fee on that video. LOL. All he needs is a British accent to sound more arrogant.

Harbor Freight will have a $9.95 replica model out in a year. ;)
 
The video says it has specialized blades.
What they really meant by the wording is that replacement blades are ordered exclusively from them at probably $10-20 a whack. I can pretty much guarantee it will be at least $ 4.95 per blade just to pay for that guy's pompous :cool: sounding voice over fee on that video. LOL. All he needs is a British accent to sound more arrogant.

Harbor Freight will have a $9.95 replica model out in a year. ;)
The current blades available now for the 1st gen cutter: Less than a quarter a piece.
1677234017380.png
 

This looked like an awesome tool until I saw the price.
I have the Mico Sander and would not ever do without it for all the sanding I do on frame mods, just wondering if I could rig up an exacto knife blades #11 to fit. :unsure:

I did a quick look at Micro-Mark and they have this.
Looks like it would do the job and the cost is only $129.95
Amazon was out of stock, but they sold the Micro sander for the same price as Micro-Mark's site, so the only difference may be shipping cost.

The more I look at these new 76% new frames I think the way to go is a power chisel and then clean up with a micro sander. That trigger housing tab is so tight it is hard to get a tool in the small area. It might be too tight for a Micro sander, if so, you may want to use a profiler with little Jewlers files for cleanup.

Redesigning your old jigs that you saved the last time everyone wanted to save the jigs pin holes, is easy for drilling that front locking block hole. Pretty much the same way you used drilled guides to save pin holes. Take an old frame and put in half the jig. Use a hole trancfer punch to locate the front locking block hole to jig. remove frame and drill hole. Do the other side the same way. Put your jig together and place an old dill bit through both holes you just drilled and place a drill guide over drill bit and use just a drop of super glue to hold the drill guide in place but don't glue your drill bit. Remove drill bit and use JB Weld to secure drill guides by putting JB Weld all around the outside of the drill guides. Now you have an old frame jig that has all the drill holes with drill guides to be used over and over.

I am so glad I stocked up on the old P80 frames.
 
I did a quick look at Micro-Mark and they have this.
Looks like it would do the job and the cost is only $129.95

OK... You try it! Haha! Take one for the team!

I don't have any compliant (new) frames, and I'm not planning to buy one any time soon, since I've got a fair number of 80% frames still unbuilt. I just don't need another frame. Though I may eventually be tempted to get one of the "bridge" / compliant frames just for the challenge.
 
@Hawkeye , yep that’s what I did. Put a frame in the jig drilled the front hole. Also used as a template to make the 3D jigs.

@JrJeeping has modified the 3D jig to add the hole for those that don’t have a frame. He did a super job of remaking it. It’s really very nice. I’m printing it and will put it up on odysee in a day or 2. Will also put up the full 3D jig soon as I get feedback from Patriots in the community doing tests.

The micro M chisel tool looks nice. Great suggestion
 
Here's a "progress" pic I grabbed from Reddit. I enhanced it so we could see down in the pocket.

1677344519096.png
 
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Dude !!! Stop scaring builders with these Reddit pix 😂🤣😂 There’s a pretty good one over there too. 😊
Yeah... saw that, too. Looks pretty good. Hopefully, the housing will sit in there properly... and all the pin holes line up.
1677351401466.png
 
Yeah... saw that, too. Looks pretty good. Hopefully, the housing will sit in there properly... and all the pin holes line up.
View attachment 9611
Okay. I can't keep quiet on this anymore.;) Who here runs the modified Gen 4 Trigger Housings in their Gen 3 frame? I've got *a few* I started testing, even before the OEM Gen 3 THs became unavailable for months on end a few years ago. The first one I did was done before it was a known thing to do -I mentioned it back on MGB's Forum (and got my ass chewed by another member for mentioning it, but MGB supported me on the innovation), and a couple of months later Brian P. made the mod a public thing. I have not experienced ANY problems (yet), and I know that there are MANY MANY Builders who went this direction too.

I have long criticized this mod however, because the bottom rear arch of the Trigger Housing is completely unsupported inside the frame -zero contact! The ONLY thing keeping a Gen 4 Trigger Housing aligned is contact across the front wall of the pocket (which is also the rear wall of the magwell) and the Trigger Housing Pin. That tiny 3mm Pin. I have long asserted that eventually the TH could deform and start rocking in the pocket, and then Sear Engagement could become compromised, the pocket/magwell wall could start receiving undo stress and break (YES, this has been documented as happening once that I know of -this is anecdotal evidence and who knows if other issues in that frame or Build contributed to the failure, but that frame is broken now -possibly all over an $8 Trigger Housing). For me, I did it as an experiment, a test. I KNOW what the potential failures are, I KNOW to keep a look-out for them.

Okay, so what does that matter here? If the grid isn't removed completely, the Trigger Housing won't sit in properly -pretty easy to tell that, and not hard to correct. Get in there with a small scraper to flush-down those ribs, take a few extra minutes to do it right. Something like these might work well:

BUT OH NO! 😱You slightly over-scraped the bottom arch of the pocket??!? So what. If a Gen 4 Trigger Housing can function reliably in a Gen 3 frame with ZERO arch contact, a rough, gouged, or scratched-up arch isn't going to be any worse. If you absolutely must, apply a THIN coating of epoxy, and before it fully sets up, drop the Trigger Housing in to 'mold' the epoxy -now you have even better contact than a 'regular' frame.

This isn't that hard. [Shrug]
 
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