New printer, new filament, new build started

Wow, those look fantastic! Makes me want to buy a printer. Which one are you using?
 
What printing parameters are you using? My prints rarely show layer lines. My initial frame 18 months ago was REALLY bad, I used regular PLA and standard printer parameters. Printed in about 8 hours. It failed after 3 rounds, but I used extreme safety precautions and everything was fine. Since then, I've done a lot of trial and error, and my go-to filament for frames (Glock and AR) is Polymaker Fiberon PA6-CF20. The strength is excellent, but I highly recommend annealing at 180F for 6-8 hours (per Polymaker recommendations). There is a lot of discussion about this on Reddit in the fosscad thread, and on Odysee. I've done G26, G43, G19, G20. Some need some tweaking and troubleshooting, but overall they work VERY well, and function nicely on the range. I've attached a few pictures. The brown frames are PLA-CF, which prints nicely but isn't as durable as PLA-Pro (PLA-Plus). I use that occassionally now for accessories like braces. I like the PA6-CF20 for 10/22 receivers, very durable. I don't like the glass fiber filament, I tried several prints with different parameters and it still warps.
Super quality, looks like the same settings Sean uses. Any chance you or @Benchies Go Boom can do a write up on how to print a quality frame including the annealing process ? Not sure if benchie anneals.

Nice to see both of you posting. I sure miss communicating with you.
 
Wow, those look fantastic! Makes me want to buy a printer. Which one are you using?
Bambu X1C. Easy setup, printing 15 minutes after unboxing. I had a problem with the MicroLidar after a few months, Bambu sent a new one which was fairly easy to replace. Then a print head basically disintegrated :oops:, probably because I was printing so much Nylon CF. I had a spare and slapped it on, back in business! Support is by email, but they are pretty prompt with response.
 
What printing parameters are you using? My prints rarely show layer lines. My initial frame 18 months ago was REALLY bad, I used regular PLA and standard printer parameters. Printed in about 8 hours. It failed after 3 rounds, but I used extreme safety precautions and everything was fine. Since then, I've done a lot of trial and error, and my go-to filament for frames (Glock and AR) is Polymaker Fiberon PA6-CF20. The strength is excellent, but I highly recommend annealing at 180F for 6-8 hours (per Polymaker recommendations). There is a lot of discussion about this on Reddit in the fosscad thread, and on Odysee. I've done G26, G43, G19, G20. Some need some tweaking and troubleshooting, but overall they work VERY well, and function nicely on the range. I've attached a few pictures. The brown frames are PLA-CF, which prints nicely but isn't as durable as PLA-Pro (PLA-Plus). I use that occassionally now for accessories like braces. I like the PA6-CF20 for 10/22 receivers, very durable. I don't like the glass fiber filament, I tried several prints with different parameters and it still warps.
I'm using CHEP'S extra fast Cura profile. It's not meant to be pretty, but to cut print times in half.
 
Here are the screenshots of the settings that I used to develop my basic print (I downloaded these back in March 2024). They are more helpful than an exported Bambu Printer file, since a lot of folks don't have Bambu Labs printers. If using the PA6-CF, make sure that you put it in your dryer for at least 10-12 hours before starting. I've tried using it straight out of the package and it just doesn't print as well. Moisture is your enemy! This will extend the time to print, but it improved the finish and the strength for me.
 

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Thought I'd post an update. Got it all assembled last week. Glock OEM LPK from Granger Tactical. Rails from 5D tactical, locking block from ebay. The upper is cobbled together from parts leftover from other builds. It's a Patmos slide and barrel with Polymer80 internals, with the exception of a Ghost 6lb striker and a Ghost reduced power plunger spring. Pics:
 

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Thought I'd post an update. Got it all assembled last week. Glock OEM LPK from Granger Tactical. Rails from 5D tactical, locking block from ebay. The upper is cobbled together from parts leftover from other builds. It's a Patmos slide and barrel with Polymer80 internals, with the exception of a Ghost 6lb striker and a Ghost reduced power plunger
For your 3d printed frames, riptide rails sells a full set of all locking blocks and rails for $69. I'm using them on all of my current "experimenal" 3d frames. No complaints at all.
 
For your 3d printed frames, riptide rails sells a full set of all locking blocks and rails for $69. I'm using them on all of my current "experimenal" 3d frames. No complaints at all.
I saw that, but buying the locking block separately and the rails from 5D still came out cheaper
 
I saw that, but buying the locking block separately and the rails from 5D still came out cheaper
I needed 4 sets. I'm doing 4 complete comparisons, and I'm using the exact same components in each one with the only variable being the filament. I was having trouble finding anything in stock anywhere.
 
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