Wow, those look fantastic! Makes me want to buy a printer. Which one are you using?
Super quality, looks like the same settings Sean uses. Any chance you or @Benchies Go Boom can do a write up on how to print a quality frame including the annealing process ? Not sure if benchie anneals.What printing parameters are you using? My prints rarely show layer lines. My initial frame 18 months ago was REALLY bad, I used regular PLA and standard printer parameters. Printed in about 8 hours. It failed after 3 rounds, but I used extreme safety precautions and everything was fine. Since then, I've done a lot of trial and error, and my go-to filament for frames (Glock and AR) is Polymaker Fiberon PA6-CF20. The strength is excellent, but I highly recommend annealing at 180F for 6-8 hours (per Polymaker recommendations). There is a lot of discussion about this on Reddit in the fosscad thread, and on Odysee. I've done G26, G43, G19, G20. Some need some tweaking and troubleshooting, but overall they work VERY well, and function nicely on the range. I've attached a few pictures. The brown frames are PLA-CF, which prints nicely but isn't as durable as PLA-Pro (PLA-Plus). I use that occassionally now for accessories like braces. I like the PA6-CF20 for 10/22 receivers, very durable. I don't like the glass fiber filament, I tried several prints with different parameters and it still warps.
Bambu X1C. Easy setup, printing 15 minutes after unboxing. I had a problem with the MicroLidar after a few months, Bambu sent a new one which was fairly easy to replace. Then a print head basically disintegratedWow, those look fantastic! Makes me want to buy a printer. Which one are you using?
I'm using CHEP'S extra fast Cura profile. It's not meant to be pretty, but to cut print times in half.What printing parameters are you using? My prints rarely show layer lines. My initial frame 18 months ago was REALLY bad, I used regular PLA and standard printer parameters. Printed in about 8 hours. It failed after 3 rounds, but I used extreme safety precautions and everything was fine. Since then, I've done a lot of trial and error, and my go-to filament for frames (Glock and AR) is Polymaker Fiberon PA6-CF20. The strength is excellent, but I highly recommend annealing at 180F for 6-8 hours (per Polymaker recommendations). There is a lot of discussion about this on Reddit in the fosscad thread, and on Odysee. I've done G26, G43, G19, G20. Some need some tweaking and troubleshooting, but overall they work VERY well, and function nicely on the range. I've attached a few pictures. The brown frames are PLA-CF, which prints nicely but isn't as durable as PLA-Pro (PLA-Plus). I use that occassionally now for accessories like braces. I like the PA6-CF20 for 10/22 receivers, very durable. I don't like the glass fiber filament, I tried several prints with different parameters and it still warps.
Thanks! Probably the Monday after nextLooks good! When ya gonna shoot it?
For your 3d printed frames, riptide rails sells a full set of all locking blocks and rails for $69. I'm using them on all of my current "experimenal" 3d frames. No complaints at all.Thought I'd post an update. Got it all assembled last week. Glock OEM LPK from Granger Tactical. Rails from 5D tactical, locking block from ebay. The upper is cobbled together from parts leftover from other builds. It's a Patmos slide and barrel with Polymer80 internals, with the exception of a Ghost 6lb striker and a Ghost reduced power plunger
I saw that, but buying the locking block separately and the rails from 5D still came out cheaperFor your 3d printed frames, riptide rails sells a full set of all locking blocks and rails for $69. I'm using them on all of my current "experimenal" 3d frames. No complaints at all.
I needed 4 sets. I'm doing 4 complete comparisons, and I'm using the exact same components in each one with the only variable being the filament. I was having trouble finding anything in stock anywhere.I saw that, but buying the locking block separately and the rails from 5D still came out cheaper