Question Prusa Slicer Split Model

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bkbrno

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Has anyone tried to split a model in half then glue them together? It seems the weakest point is always a layer line below the trigger guard. Splitting the model and laying it flat eliminates this weakness. Not sure it the halves can stay glued together.

I may try this. Worst case, I have half a grip for seeing how parts fit together.
 
I'm not a 3D-er but what if you incorporated male/female alignment "pins" into the two halves? :unsure:
 
There are options for different connection types. My experience with 3D printing is that it can't print close enough to make a good connection with alignment bumps. There is an option for dowel pins that I may explore.

This whole concept goes just beyond my 3d printing knowledge and abilities. Hoping the more experienced will give it a go and provide some guidance.
 
I was able to split it and tried to print one side. I figured I would at least have a cutaway to see how things work.

I'm not familiar/comfortable with Prusa slicer. I used a lot of their defaults. The supports defaulted to a really small grid pattern for supports. The supports don't want to break away and are in their tight. Could be as troublesome as a 76%. At least the whole side is open to dig.

I used 100% infill and it wasn't flat after it came off the build surface. It would probably flatten out after heat treating it or warp more. I may get a glass build surface to see if improves things. I know my bed isn't flat, this is where that bites you in the rear.

Either something broke on my printer or the model didn't slice correctly. Somewhere around 80% complete, the whole thing shifted 3-4mm on the Y axis. I need to look at my printer and see if it is a mechanical issue. Anyone know what the tooth spacing is on those belts? I used a model I just stumbled across, Fat Boy or something like that. The grip is huge. Doesn't work for me, glad I didn't waste too much on it.

I couldn't get it to print dowel holes for alignment. Maybe there is nowhere on the model that works and the default setting won't do anything. The model has 4 pin holes already. Those came out nice and round, I used 4 walls in the slice.
 
Not familiar with purse slicer I use cura but, slicers have similar settings. Look at the z setting in the support area. Adjust it so the supports are farther away from your print and they will peel right off.

Google search AI says: In PrusaSlicer, the "Support Z distance" setting, also called "Top contact Z distance", controls the vertical distance between the object and the support material interface, essentially determining how much space is between the bottom of your print and the top of the support structure; a higher value makes supports easier to remove but can potentially impact surface quality, so most users aim for a value between 50-75% of their layer height for optimal balance

PrusaSlicer hard to remove supports

I am finding supports generated in the PrusaSlicer very difficult to remove sometimes even resulting in parts breaking while trying to remove the supp...
forum.prusa3d.com forum.prusa3d.com

Recommend learning your printer and slicer. Calibrate your printer. Get great quality prints using calibration models or small practice prints. There’s a tons of them to use, tweek your slicer settings until calibration prints have a desired outcome. Then print your frame.

Broken bullets and printypur2a files are great files. Printyour2a offers a calibration to help adjust settings for their frame.
 
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