PY2A printed on a Bambu.

I would try bending before filing. You can always bend it back to readjust, but you can't unfile something.
 
The original engagement between the sear and firing pin is 110% or more. It sure looks like the sear on the Trigger Bar needs to be bent down just a bit. It is an Alpha Shooting Sports upper.
So the upper, including the internal parts is aftermarket? Yeah... sear engagement should not be 110+%. Sounds like the firing pin lug is too long (out of spec).

Photos would help... like this:

The-Tank-Sear-Engagement.jpg


When it comes to the firing mechanism, I use ALL Glock OEM parts.... upper and lower.

Bending the sear down is an obvious solution, but it is making me uncomfortable. Is it less than intelligent to bend the sear tab down so you get 50-75% engagement with the firing pin?
Glock armorer's manual recommends at least 2/3rds engagement.

1737290702569.jpeg
 
Might be helpful to see some photos. Are you using OEM or after market parts for trigger bar, etc?
 
If you set out to bend the sear, you end up snapping it. Clamp it solidly and FLEX it the direction you want. It may take several rounds of FLEXING and reassembly but it will get there.
 
I thought there was a reason the "Blinking Red Light" went on when I considered bending the connector. If this is the solution, adjusting the firing pin seems easier, but the same blinking red light comes on.

After reviewing everything, there is a Lone Wolf connector on the trigger mechanism, which will get replaced with correct Glock unit. I can see the trigger bar and connector interact correctly. The bar drops off the shelf in the housing, but not far enough. I can press it down and release the firing pin, but this is not something I would like to do with a live round inside. Can I post videos?
a9d285c4-bf46-4be5-a9d6-ca88749fb073~1.SMALL.jpeg06cad12d-81a9-43e4-b0a0-cd38f5cd3643~1.SMALL.jpegbe730a7d-ea4f-4f73-b5dc-b9c302f01473~1.SMALL.jpeg

I do have the same frame and upper (Alpha Shooting Sports) functioning as well as an OEM Glock frame or a Poly 80 frame.
Mike
 
I thought there was a reason the "Blinking Red Light" went on when I considered bending the connector. If this is the solution, adjusting the firing pin seems easier, but the same blinking red light comes on.

After reviewing everything, there is a Lone Wolf connector on the trigger mechanism, which will get replaced with correct Glock unit. I can see the trigger bar and connector interact correctly. The bar drops off the shelf in the housing, but not far enough. I can press it down and release the firing pin, but this is not something I would like to do with a live round inside. Can I post videos?
View attachment 28219View attachment 28220View attachment 28221

I do have the same frame and upper (Alpha Shooting Sports) functioning as well as an OEM Glock frame or a Poly 80 frame.
Mike
At the risk of asking the obvious, the trigger bar and housing aren't Gen3. Are you sure you have the right Gen components for the PY2A model you picked? I know they have Gen3/4/5, so asking to be sure.

** Just saw your reply on another thread that these are .45? Same question though I saw the numbers and was assuming you were working with 9mm.
 
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So yes on the other thread; I'm consolidating to this one. I'm going to have to verify the Generation & check with PY2A; they do answer. I am working on verifying the Generation's; we are shooting for Gen 3. If I have simply messed up the generations then this is a learning experience. I do appreciate the input!

Here is the sear/firing pin with the trigger pulled all the way back

6ce705e0-b280-4630-8caa-e9424e48240e~1.SMALL.jpeg

And again a bit closer

9711cc95-e511-4cfc-b33a-7cb594a7a604~1.SMALL.jpeg


It is so close, I can almost hear it go BANG.

Mike
 
And this is the complete unit.

6b28e5ff-bac9-43ea-817b-f21cc1851e05~1.SMALL.jpeg


Mike
 
Usually when it's this close I stone the trigger bar. In the past I've also heated it with a torch, tweaked it then retempered and stoned if necessary. Don't think you should do this but I have.
 
So...... should that trigger housing have 5357 stamped on it? I have the sinking feeling that a Rookie Mistake has been made. This is the trigger bar and housing that was used in the build. Gen 3 was the target. 37482 trigger bar and 477970 trigger housing.

7ea4120c-588a-45d0-8c9d-35a450bfb4b6~1.SMALL.jpeg

Mike
 
I try to avoid the Tweaking of trigger mechanisms, but once I verify that all the parts are correct (generation) I am about ready to stone down the firing pin. I really hope I have the wrong generation of parts inside. It is a great excuse to build 2 or 3 more G21's.
Mike
 
If I'm understanding your description, it seems odd to me that the trigger bar doesnt drop enough to release the striker. Sure you have the right connector? Is it OEM or 3rd party? Same goes for the striker.

Just a guess.

I'd watch some of Johnny Glock's videos before screwing with the cruciform. I have been told screwing with the sear (cruciform) is always a bad idea.
 
A trigger bar is $10. A firing pin is $60-70. Choose wisely. Rule #1 is modify the cheapest part. Glock 20/21 firing pins are not easy to find. Make sure you can get another before you grind on that one.

If you have a working big frame, swap the slide into it and see if the problem follows.

You have a printed frame. Dimensions are not a sure thing. Work from there out.
 
Midwest gun works lists the 8196 trigger housing as the one for the Glock 30.

At Glock Talk there's a discussion of the 4256-3 trigger bar in a 30
 
Hold on for a second. The trigger housing in the picture is a Gen 3 not an SF. Please verify which trigger housing you should be using.

The hump on the back of the trigger housing should be sitting on the frame. It looks like it is too high. That would happen if you used a Gen 3 trigger housing where an SF housing should be.

I'm sorry, I am not up on the parts specs for the PY2A frame. I am vaguely familiar and I know there are several variations with a different readme for each. I couldn't sort out what went with what so I lost interest and moved on
 
No matter what, that trigger housing is not seated correctly. The cause of all your issues.
 
I don't know anything about a P2YA frame. Which Glock is it cloning?

The trigger housing looks quite rough / beat up. And it looks like it isn't seated on the frame. And based on the color, I'm assuming the firing pin is not Glock OEM.

1737326939175.png
 
I don't know anything about a P2YA frame. Which Glock is it cloning?

The trigger housing looks quite rough / beat up. And it looks like it isn't seated on the frame. And based on the color, I'm assuming the firing pin is not Glock OEM.

View attachment 28235
I was wondering if it was just the picture quality, or if someone did some "fitting" with a Dremel tool.
 
I was wondering if it was just the picture quality, or if someone did some "fitting" with a Dremel tool.
It's not the picture quality (which is actually quite good and better than most). But that trigger housing looks like it's been beaten up.... and maybe not completely seated.
 
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