Rook rails sure make things easier. @Michele would say "cheating!" Ha!I gladly buy Rook rear rails to avoid the hassle. The front rails are nice but not necessary for me. If they were cheaper I'd buy them too but I'm ok with just polishing my stock front rails.
If your p80 rails are working well, why would you fix something that's not broken?After watching the vid and reading this and checking their site out, I'm sold on Rook Rails. Depending on availability I may have to retrofit them.
Rook rails aren't a fix, they're an upgrade.If your p80 rails are working well, why would you fix something that's not broken?
I didn't know p80 rails are MIM. I thought they're stamped stainless steel?Any time I can replace a MIM part with one that is machined, I do. I have done that numerous times with 1911's. There is no debate about whether machined parts are better than MIM.
The Rook rails certainly look to be a better quality. If the rear rails were connected to each other I'd be a bigger fan. The one piece rear rail just seems to be a stronger design.Rook rails aren't a fix, they're an upgrade.
Sure the P80 rails work just fine, but just by looking at the 2 different rear rail systems side by side, it's obvious which is better. The fact that it's more difficult for you to check the 2 piece rail system for level, isn't really a factor, because the Rook rails, providing that you drilled the holes correctly will be level. No need to check them, like the P80 rails.
As far as the front lbrs, the P80 work fine also, but it's a fact that machined parts are better quality than mim. Just look at the surface of the mim part with a magnifying glass to see the inconsistencies.
Sure, you can polish or hone the P80 lbrs and then you would probably need a microscope to see the inconsistencies, but they'd still be there. Plus, if the mim part was surface hardened which many are, you're opening up a whole new can of worms with that.
The rear are stamped stainless. The front are mim.I didn't know p80 rails are MIM. I thought they're stamped stainless steel?
We definitely look at things differently.The one piece rear rail just seems to be a stronger design.
Yeah man, we do, and there's nothing wrong with that.We definitely look at things differently.
The fact that it's more difficult for you to check the 2 piece rail system for level, isn't really a factor, because the Rook rails, providing that you drilled the holes correctly will be level. No need to check them, like the P80 rails.
If the rear rails were connected to each other I'd be a bigger fan. The one piece rear rail just seems to be a stronger design.
That's a good point, I hadn't considered.Another advantage of the Rook split rear rails is that they support the trigger housing better with full-length contact / support. By contrast, the P80 stamped one-piece supports the trigger housing on the right side at only one small point - with that little bent ear thingy.
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Hadn't noticed/considered that either. Good observation, especially given that the housing is plastic!Another advantage of the Rook split rear rails is that they support the trigger housing better with full-length contact / support. By contrast, the P80 stamped one-piece supports the trigger housing on the right side at only one small point - with that little bent ear thingy.
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So, the trigger housing can have some potential to be torqued or move slightly. Does it matter? I don't know for sure. But the Rook rear rails have full support there.
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Lastly... I've used Rook rails for all my builds. I've never once even had to check or adjust the levels. I just put the slide on and it glides like it's on ice.
Hadn't noticed/considered that either. Good observation, especially given that the housing is plastic!