Slicer Settings

[ZMan3k]

Hey everyone, been lurking for while here, and haven't really seen many talk about slicer settings to get the best frame prints. I know there's the whole rails up vs rails down battle raging, but after you decide what gang you want to get jumped into, what are some good printer settings to use. I have an Ultimaker S5 but I'm just looking for some starter settings that I can tweak a bit to get working on my printer without having to print 2-3 frames and hope until I find out something that works for me. Is this taboo? lol I'm surprised more people aren't bouncing ideas off one and other or sharing their Cura settings. Or am I just not finding them?

-Z

 

[Racer88]

Thanks for joining and posting! I think 3D printing guns is still in its relative infancy. So, not a ton of people here doing it. But there are some! @Michele is pretty knowledgeable.

I haven't gone down that rabbit hole.... YET!

 

[Michele]

Nothing taboo about printing or discussion on anything printing that I’m aware of

Like Racer stated there’s not many here printing. Think most of the 3d peeps are on other types of platforms.

So for setting up your machine to get a good print I suggest run a few calibrations to tune your printer. There are some all in ones out there. Use the filament you plan to print with. Also follow the “read me files“ directions that come with which ever frame or wreapon u plan to print. Learn your printer, print a lot of stuff, play around with your slicer…learn what it does.

Cura slicer generally prints pretty good without messing around with the default settings.
Use good quality filament, keep it dry.
Printing a frame isn’t all that different than printing anything else. Aside from wanting frame 98-100% infill.

If you find the supports are too difficult to remove, adjust the support z settings to be larger than.2 until they come off easily. Again, print other stuff to learn what to set your slicer at based on the files . Not all filament print the same there maybe differences from one color to another.

level bed and correct nozzle distance can make all the difference in a good print or a mess of noodles.

Heres a good place to get your Pinter tuned

https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html

There’s a load of settings in Cura that are adjustable, if you have a question on a specific setting I’ll be happy to assist if I have the answer.

Thursdays at 6pm PST there’s a small group that talk 3d printing on you tube live. Your welcome to join us tomorrow night and ask the guys anything. They will share the settings they use If you ask.

https://m.youtube.com/channel/UCL6yv7WXa4zfYXWP1fdlrGg

 

[clm2112]

<snip> Is this taboo? lol I'm surprised more people aren't bouncing ideas off one and other or sharing their Cura settings. Or am I just not finding them?

Not taboo at all. Just kinda the new frontier. So far I've done about five print attempts yielding two usable frames. So, yeah you start out with the setting recommendations from the maker and start twiddling based on the actual quirks of the filament and print you are using. Feel free to dive in, post your attempts and show your problems. That's how I approached this, getting advice from Michele and others after the fails. Also come hang out on the Thursday night 2 A All Day get togethers.

 

[ZMan3k]

Thursdays at 6pm PST there’s a small group that talk 3d printing on you tube live. Your welcome to join us tomorrow night and ask the guys anything. They will share the settings they use If you ask.

https://m.youtube.com/channel/UCL6yv7WXa4zfYXWP1fdlrGg

I have added them, but I usually have softball on Thursdays so I always end up catching the show a day late, I'll make it for one of those giveaways one of these days! haha

 

[ZMan3k]

Not taboo at all. Just kinda the new frontier. So far I've done about five print attempts yielding two usable frames. So, yeah you start out with the setting recommendations from the maker and start twiddling based on the actual quirks of the filament and print you are using. Feel free to dive in, post your attempts and show your problems. That's how I approached this, getting advice from Michele and others after the fails. Also come hang out on the Thursday night 2 A All Day get togethers.

Thanks, once I get my new nozzles for my S5 (had a mishap that took out both of my nozzles, but that's a story for another day smh) and I start printing frames I will definitely post successes and failures, as well as my journey diving into different plastics. Really curious to try printing Polymide CoPa with dissolvable support interfaces so I can print at 0mm gaps and hopefully come out with near perfect print quality. We shall see. And I will try to make a thursday show for sure! My YT handle is the same as here, so if ya see me say hi!

 

[James Moore]

If you do Facebook, here's a couple groups you might want to check out.

2A Printing | Facebook

Here to discuss and share your to a 3-D prints.

www.facebook.com

Stay Free! 3D printing! | Facebook

We arent a group. We are a family, although we've had our problems we stick together and continue pursuing our passions. To me and many of us this isn't just a Hobby, its a way of life we love our...

www.facebook.com

 

[golfsferr]

Hey everyone, been lurking for while here, and haven't really seen many talk about slicer settings to get the best frame prints. I know there's the whole rails up vs rails down battle raging, but after you decide what gang you want to get jumped into, what are some good printer settings to use. I have an Ultimaker S5 but I'm just looking for some starter settings that I can tweak a bit to get working on my printer without having to print 2-3 frames and hope until I find out something that works for me. Is this taboo? lol I'm surprised more people aren't bouncing ideas off one and other or sharing their Cura settings. Or am I just not finding them?

-Z

Here is the slicer settings I used with 3D-Fuel Pro PLA filament (high impact higher heat resistance) excellent filament! I printed the model upside down and it was the cleanest model I've printed! Hope this helps you!

 

[golfsferr]

I used a Ender 3

 

[golfsferr]

Sorry I’ll retake some of the pictures too blurry

 

[golfsferr]

These are clear

 

[brian]

These are clear

Might even be better if you could export the settings and upload them as an attachment (would give you a back up in case of system crash too)

 

[Michele]

Video on slicer settings for pla+, polymaker pro

View: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=a2rtiEzfVwM

 

[trekgod3]

Hi. I used my Ender 3 v1 to print a few glock frames and a couple ar15 lowers. I use cura along with CHEP'S extra fast cura profile to cut print time in half without sacrificing much quality. I'd highly recommend his profiles. You can search youtube for his videos. A frame/lower use to take me over 24 hours to print, now I can print one in 13 hours. If you are interested in ar15 lowers, I'd also highly recommend Hoffman tactical. The guy is a genius. His stuff is available on Odysee. His lowers require a hardware kit that he sells on his website. The 2 lowers of his that I printed run flawlessly.

 

[Michele]

2nd the Hoffman recommendation. He’s on my fav list at odysee

 

[golfsferr]

Hi. I used my Ender 3 v1 to print a few glock frames and a couple ar15 lowers. I use cura along with CHEP'S extra fast cura profile to cut print time in half without sacrificing much quality. I'd highly recommend his profiles. You can search youtube for his videos. A frame/lower use to take me over 24 hours to print, now I can print one in 13 hours. If you are interested in ar15 lowers, I'd also highly recommend Hoffman tactical. The guy is a genius. His stuff is available on Odysee. His lowers require a hardware kit that he sells on his website. The 2 lowers of his that I printed run flawlessly.

Yeah that guy is great he’s helped me out in early stages of my learning process. I went to YouTube and looked at his suggestions for faster profiles but I didn’t see how to download. Please tell me where to find it! Thanks

 

[golfsferr]

Hi. I used my Ender 3 v1 to print a few glock frames and a couple ar15 lowers. I use cura along with CHEP'S extra fast cura profile to cut print time in half without sacrificing much quality. I'd highly recommend his profiles. You can search youtube for his videos. A frame/lower use to take me over 24 hours to print, now I can print one in 13 hours. If you are interested in ar15 lowers, I'd also highly recommend Hoffman tactical. The guy is a genius. His stuff is available on Odysee. His lowers require a hardware kit that he sells on his website. The 2 lowers of his that I printed run flawlessly.

Well, I guess I was able to find the downloads after all, I didn’t realize I had to click on the paragraph to get them, but I found them. However, they’re set up to print something quite small with little or no infill. I believe the stuff we are printing requires 95 to 100% infill so while I can start with his settings in the end I didn’t save as much time as I was hoping to. If I’m missing something please enlighten me!

 

[trekgod3]

Well, I guess I was able to find the downloads after all, I didn’t realize I had to click on the paragraph to get them, but I found them. However, they’re set up to print something quite small with little or no infill. I believe the stuff we are printing requires 95 to 100% infill so while I can start with his settings in the end I didn’t save as much time as I was hoping to. If I’m missing something please enlighten me!

Not sure if you are referring to the CHEP profile or hoffman tactical lower files? The chep profile is a project file that you import into cura. Once you do that, the profile will be saved and available to use. If you are referring to the hoffman ar15 files, they are scaled perfectly already. After you have the extra fast profile available, you will need to tweak your Temps, infill and print speed. I print in PLA plus at 220 degrees with a bed temp of 60 degrees and for any kind of gun frame, 100 percent infill. I print at 30 to 40 mm/s.

 

[golfsferr]

Not sure if you are referring to the CHEP profile or hoffman tactical lower files? The chep profile is a project file that you import into cura. Once you do that, the profile will be saved and available to use. If you are referring to the hoffman ar15 files, they are scaled perfectly already. After you have the extra fast profile available, you will need to tweak your Temps, infill and print speed. I print in PLA plus at 220 degrees with a bed temp of 60 degrees and for any kind of gun frame, 100 percent infill. I print at 30 to 40 mm/s.

I was referring to the CHEP files haven’t checked out the other person yet. I just printed one today with 3d Fuel PLA Pro + - 240/60 temps 100%infill 50mm/s .2 layer height raft in under 24 hours and I’m happy with it.