Tempted by the Frame of Another - Geisler Transparent Frame!

One of the last pieces I needed is the Rook SS locking block. It's a snug fit in the frame, but hopefully it will align correctly to let the gun function smoothly.

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Compared to the EOM black locking block, the stainless looks almost invisible ion the clear frame.

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I also ordered the black Cerakoted magwell from Superior Triggers, since they are unsure if they'll have enough demand to make a second production run. My plan is to have the Cerakote media blasted off to achieve a matte silver finish. I'm helping my folks with their move this weekend, so I hope to start building after that.
 
If you lightly sanded and polished the black one, it would look really slick in your frame and almost disappear or just polish the one from Rook. That’s the easiest route.
 
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Great/terrible thread guys. I signed up for the Crystal Cuate Club, mine should be here this week. 💸 I wish it was a 19 or 17 frame rather than the 19x but it is the only see-thru option in town. KM Tactical's cutaway slide pushed me over the edge:


It will likely be a display piece although I might try putting a functional slide on it just to see if it really works. Looking at all the pics it might also be worth trying to polish off the side grip texture to make the grip more see through.

@Warhammer I really dig that thoroughly spirally fluted barrel! It reminds me of the Spy vs Spy comics I read as a kid. Those dudes carried guns with barrels like that. Did you get a gen 5 barrel? I scoured the Ninex19 website for a gen 5 G34 barrel but could not find it?!?
 
Just need an armorers slide to complete the look.

It will likely be a display piece although I might try putting a functional slide on it just to see if it really works. Looking at all the pics it might also be worth trying to polish off the side grip texture to make the grip more see through.

@Warhammer I really dig that thoroughly spirally fluted barrel! It reminds me of the Spy vs Spy comics I read as a kid. Those dudes carried guns with barrels like that. Did you get a gen 5 barrel? I scoured the Ninex19 website for a gen 5 G34 barrel but could not find it?!?

Great idea!
 
Great/terrible thread guys. I signed up for the Crystal Cuate Club, mine should be here this week. 💸 I wish it was a 19 or 17 frame rather than the 19x but it is the only see-thru option in town. KM Tactical's cutaway slide pushed me over the edge:


It will likely be a display piece although I might try putting a functional slide on it just to see if it really works. Looking at all the pics it might also be worth trying to polish off the side grip texture to make the grip more see through.

@Warhammer I really dig that thoroughly spirally fluted barrel! It reminds me of the Spy vs Spy comics I read as a kid. Those dudes carried guns with barrels like that. Did you get a gen 5 barrel? I scoured the Ninex19 website for a gen 5 G34 barrel but could not find it?!?

Yes, it is a Gen 5 barrel. I got it from Tacdom.com. Strangely, NineX19 doesn't offer it on their own website.

 
I got the Notaguntuber magwell from Superior Triggers, so now I have all of the parts and my build can commence. I'll just need to find a local who can media blast the black Cerakote off, leaving it satin silver.

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I just compared a P80 front rail to the Geisler. This was done by pushing the pins out a little and setting it on top.

They are close but the trigger pin is a about 1mm off. I wouldn't get too attached to the Rook rail.
 
I had good luck with ETS G21 mags. They work and no mag related malfunctions.

I put a clear Geisler on order because they said they were in stock. I also put a note in there that if they were not in stock, ship a grey or FDE. Be careful what you wish for. They shipped me a grey frame. Coincidentally, the grey frame went on sale for $50 less than the clear. I got what I asked for so I have no right to bitch.
same here. the 30 rd sticks.
 
Small project while I kill time waiting for the wife tonight. I got that clear holster, but the black hardware kinda ruined the effect, IMO.

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So I got some stainless steel binding posts and cut new spacers from some clear tubing. Voila! Invisible holster! (I'll probably buy some clear Kydex to make my own belt clips and complete the look.)

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Well, It turns out that the ready-made holster is not going to work with my G34 slide.

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I just ordered a couple of 12x12 sheets of clear Kydex so I can make my own holster with clear belt clips.

As for the handgun, I have all the parts that I need to Cerakote and my new airbrush, so I'll shoot them later today when my garage is a bit warmer.

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I just compared a P80 front rail to the Geisler. This was done by pushing the pins out a little and setting it on top.

They are close but the trigger pin is a about 1mm off. I wouldn't get too attached to the Rook rail.

I may have to retract this. The holes are a lot closer than I originally thought. It is really difficult to judge without cramming it in the frame. The Geisler was the first frame that was one and done for me. I didn't have to strip it done a few times to correct something. I'm not motivated to screw with it for a look-see.

When I built it, I remember trying a P80 rail and it was way too fat to fit easily. The Geisler rail is less robust than the P80 rail so I thought it might be an upgrade option. I couldn't press it in the slot so I moved on.

I am more than pleased how the pistol functions with the supplied rail. Polish the areas visible through the frame and call it good.

The rear rails are a completely different shape than both the GST and P80. I don't see any aftermarket options working there.
 
I may have to retract this. The holes are a lot closer than I originally thought. It is really difficult to judge without cramming it in the frame. The Geisler was the first frame that was one and done for me. I didn't have to strip it done a few times to correct something. I'm not motivated to screw with it for a look-see.

When I built it, I remember trying a P80 rail and it was way too fat to fit easily. The Geisler rail is less robust than the P80 rail so I thought it might be an upgrade option. I couldn't press it in the slot so I moved on.

I am more than pleased how the pistol functions with the supplied rail. Polish the areas visible through the frame and call it good.

The rear rails are a completely different shape than both the GST and P80. I don't see any aftermarket options working there.
The Rook locking block fits nicely into the Geisler frame. The only question is hole alignment, which I would think should be pretty close across any platform built as a Glock clone. Just in case, I'm going to go ahead and Cerakote the Geisler locking block along with the other parts I'm spraying. That way it's already done if I need it.
 
This one is definitely slated for display only. I got a little impatient fitting a P80 locking block to it to get more silver and less black. The P80 block sits just a smidge high so I started taking some off the bottom. Fun as you can see where it is touching through the clear frame. 😎 I tried hammering the pins in a little prematurely and chipped off a chunk from the inside of the frame and cracked the area around the locking block pin. 🙁 Bummer as I have been this rough with normal frame colors without leaving wreckage behind. The clear seems to be more brittle. Anyways, it is together with the cutaway slide. Bare stainless sure looks good with the clear frame! I had also picked up a G34 slide, adapter and one of those spiral fluted barrels to use as a shooter. I don't trust this frame so I am just going to have to get another frame for the long slide. I am thinking either a white frame or gray. Anybody have pics with a silver slide on either of those colors?

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Yep, the brittleness of the plastic was my concern. See that was well founded but so sorry it happened to you. I'd imagine the frame will craze as people start putting a bunch or rounds through these. I'm not a plastics engineer but I did stay in a Holiday Inn.
 
This one is definitely slated for display only. I got a little impatient fitting a P80 locking block to it to get more silver and less black. The P80 block sits just a smidge high so I started taking some off the bottom. Fun as you can see where it is touching through the clear frame. 😎 I tried hammering the pins in a little prematurely and chipped off a chunk from the inside of the frame and cracked the area around the locking block pin. 🙁 Bummer as I have been this rough with normal frame colors without leaving wreckage behind. The clear seems to be more brittle. Anyways, it is together with the cutaway slide. Bare stainless sure looks good with the clear frame! I had also picked up a G34 slide, adapter and one of those spiral fluted barrels to use as a shooter. I don't trust this frame so I am just going to have to get another frame for the long slide. I am thinking either a white frame or gray. Anybody have pics with a silver slide on either of those colors?

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I fiddled around with trying to fit a stainless locking block to my clear Geisler frame and had the same problem as you. I've decided I will spray the included locking block with silver Cerakote, rather than try to force it.
 
I fiddled around with trying to fit a stainless locking block to my clear Geisler frame and had the same problem as you. I've decided I will spray the included locking block with silver Cerakote, rather than try to force it.
Thanks for all of your input in this thread. You're doing a fine job with the build and plenty of thought behind it. (y) Looking forward to see how it comes out. You're gonna have a "Ducati" Clear 9mm when done! The bike will need a clear holster somewhere! :D
 
Now that you mentioned it, got me thinking why a clear frame is brittle. To get a clear frame polymer doesn't have any filler in it. Filler in plastic adds strength. Some plastics add ground fiberglass or graphite. JB Weld adds ground up aluminum or steel dust.
This is just my guess why clear is so brittle.
 
Now that you mentioned it, got me thinking why a clear frame is brittle. To get a clear frame polymer doesn't have any filler in it. Filler in plastic adds strength. Some plastics add ground fiberglass or graphite. JB Weld adds ground up aluminum or steel dust.
This is just my guess why clear is so brittle.
Dunno!??? I am not plastics guru, but it could be made out of materials similar to Lexan or Acrylic too in order to get the clear part going. Acrylic is seriously brittle. Lexan not so much! I've used a lot of acrylic for business stuff and had a Lexan windshield on a very fast rail dune buggy to keep bug out of the teefus.

Temporary hijack :

As a side note about acrylic, if anyone needs a cool looking clear panel that looks like a glass window with black trimmed area to frame the clear glass center area, just mask off the inside of an acrylic sheet in the middle area and spray the edges in black spray paint. Remove the masking tape and view from the opposite side and those black areas you painted around the edges will be gloss smooth and perfectly finished. A modern looking panel for all sorts of uses. We used this system for our console panels, switches and monitor covers manufacturing large display equipment with all sorts of computer monitor systems. The panels can curve gradually too for multi-monitor systems. It will also work for race car switch panels or any other type of switching panel system you need that looks bad ass and appears factory built.

If you curve your masking tape in the corners in a smooth arc or other shapes the black painted area comes out looking like a modern machine fabricated the acrylic sheets and you could do it in your garage. It looks fucking spectacular and the paint is as perfect as you can get due to how smooth the plastic is. No orange peel or nothing. Just a glass black finish. You can also do colors and logos if you are an artsy type person or need the corporate look.

Regal Plastics (if one is near you) is a much better supplier for this stuff at retail/commercial level rather than a big box store.
 
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