Time to "Mup"... my Sig P320C clone build.

Twiddling my thumbs again, waiting on the post office and UPS. (Yeah, I bought one of those new take-off M17 slide assemblies. Somebody put one up for sale for $342 with night sights, so I went for it.) I'm thinking more than one dealer loaded up on M17 Caliber X-Change kits and is parting them out.

Meanwhile, I finished up the 3D printed grip module and am now ready to test fire it tomorrow morning. Kinda has a Reeses Peanut Butter Cup vibe going... dark chocolate, milk chocolate, and peanut butter colored parts all mixed together.... or maybe a Kit-Kat bar.

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Ok, it functions. I'm not really thrilled. The grip module file is by JP (Gatalog site) and it is a copy of the Aluminum Sig AGX grip module. It is kinda clunky. The module is wide with hard edges that mirror the contours of the AGX with it's removable grip panels. Feels to me like a Beretta M9. Glad I didn't plunk down $400 for a example of Sig's best product, that would have been a major disappointment. The grip module from the base model Compact feels a whole lot better in the hand. The Wilson Combat module is by far the best feeling one in my opinion.

I'll find out tomorrow if a 3D printed grip module is a viable tool. I think it will do pretty well. All the moving parts are within the steel FCU so the grip module wrapped around the FCU is just a handle for it. A 3D printed Glock has to handle much higher forces being passed through the plastic.
What material did you use to print with?
What material did you use to print with?

That was done using eSun PLA Plus. While I didn't like the feel of the grip module, it was an effective print.
For some reason I seem to go thru phases. I'll go from everything I print is perfect, to I can't even print the "test cube" correctly. So instead of blowing up Benchy's email, I got this book off of Amazon which is about 330 pages and deals with literally everything. A lot of pictures and a lot settings for all the filaments, slicers, you name it. Well worth the $24


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In depth how to level the bed...

Hmmm... not to be a heretic here, but 3D printing has its limitations. The material will always have a problem with bias in the material strength. It will always be weaker in the axis that subjects the filament layer joints to tension. It just de-laminates way too easily.

That said, it is suitable for low stress parts, like the grip module for the Sig. The FCU (or MUP) takes the majority of the stresses, so the grip module doesn't have to.

From this point, I see it as a great prototyping tool. In fact, I'm looking forward to casting metal parts using 3D printed cores.... a derivation of the lost-wax casting process.

Here, from an old History Channel series "How It's Made" on making cast steel golf club heads using the Lost Wax casting process.

How It's Made - Golf Clubs

Now... imagine if you substitute a 3D printed part, complete with the sprues and runners for casting, in place of the wax part. So, you 3D print your frame, coat it in ceramic silt, cure the resulting ceramic mold in a kiln to bake out the 3d print, and pour hot metal into the mold to create the finished part. You get a finished product without the thousands of dollar invested in dies.
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US Patriot Armory currently shows both jigs and inserts in stock.
Wow! They have really updated their site. Look at all that information for all the different platforms. Comprehensive overview section. Very nice. They used to be pretty vague regarding builds, even their own jigs I found better info from different sites. They really stepped up their game.
I'm hedging my bets... going to drill the extra holes for the P250 into the MUP's. If the issue with P320 does get demonstrated to be a flaw in the design, I can fall back to converting the FCU into the hammer fired P250, which is basically immune to potential problem.
Real Guns have Hammers.