Glock & Smithson

FrankenGlock

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Decided to take this project on a week ago but have been wanting to build one for a while. Found a good deal on a complete slide and it was go time for the project.

Some S&W slides can be adapted to work on a Glock frame. Back in the day, Glock sued S&W for patent violation and won. After doing this project, I can see why. Found a complete and used S&W SD40VE slide for less than $100 including shipping but you can use an OE Glock barrel and if you use an OE Glock barrel you can use a G23 RSA. If you use the S&W barrel, you need to use their RSA as it is ever so slightly different. Here is what it looked like when receiving. Knocked off the dirt, lint, and gun powder residue as it looked pretty bad but cleaned up well with some Dawn, hot water, and a toothbrush. This project took less than two hours including disassembly, cleaning, figuring out how everything works, and taking pictures with a slide that now functions on a Glock frame. I could do this in less than an hour after doing this one and I'd rate this as way easier to do than a 76% frame and certainly much quicker.

S&W slide .JPG



Had to remove much of the metal so it will go on the slide and enable the trigger to reset. The trigger reset needs to be approximately 3.98 mm from the slide rail.

S&W trigger reset.JPG


I used a rotary tool with flex shaft and a metal cutting wheel to remove the bulk of material. I drew a line where to remove the material, so it would end up being 3.98mm from the rail wall to ensure there was a good reset and to give clearance for the trigger housing to slide past. It cut fast so it's important not to go too deep as you will enter the firing pin channel. Once the bulk of the stainless was removed via the cutting wheel, I switched to a small carbide cutting bit to round the edges and remove material from each side of the trigger reset so it was a smooth transition and so the trigger would reset when it went by the trigger reset hump. The ones on Glock slides are long, but this is enough for it to work.
where to remove.jpeg


These are the places you have to remove material. The area near the breach face will keep the slide from cycling all the way back on a Glock frame so it had to be removed for proper function and the cutting wheel made quick work of this spot of metal.


S&W finished.JPG

After using the cutting wheel and the carbide bit, I went back in and flattened out any high sports with a small file. Again, you do not want to go too deep with the cutting wheel as it will go into the FP channel. The slide will now go on the Glock frame smoothly and will have a strong trigger reset.

For the internals, you can use a Glock Gen 5 firing pin and it fits perfectly. You can also use a Glock FP spacer. I recycled the existing FP spacer and will go back in and change it to a Glock FP spacer the next time I'm in the gun. Did the pencil test and it launched it a few feet. The gun locks open with an empty mag, strong trigger rest, and seems to function perfectly. Next stop is the range for testing but I'm confident with all the tests I did that it will function as intended.

gun 1.jpg
Gun 2.jpg
Gun 3.jpg



Finished product on a Gen 6 Glock frame. The permanent home for this slide is a PSA Dagger S frame as the Gen 6 frame is running a Gen 3 17L slide now and has a GPT I adapted for the Gen 6 as there is no GPT currently available for the Gen 6 frames. Maybe I'll do that write up soon.
 
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Looks great and awesome write-up. I've seen a few Glock & Wessons in 9mm and have seriously considered building one myself as you can get complete slides cheap. I'll have to remember about the barrel swap if it will work on a 9. S & W magazines are retarded expensive for the SWV's & D's so putting it on a frame that will take Glock mags is a definite plus.
 
Looks great and awesome write-up. I've seen a few Glock & Wessons in 9mm and have seriously considered building one myself as you can get complete slides cheap. I'll have to remember about the barrel swap if it will work on a 9. S & W magazines are retarded expensive for the SWV's & D's so putting it on a frame that will take Glock mags is a definite plus.
You can also use a Glock conversion barrel to run 9mm if you want but I'm keeping it as a .40 S&W. I'm thinking of getting a threaded Glock G23 barrel for this one but all the ones available are black nitride finish and I really like the look of a matching barrel to the stainless slide. I dropped an Alpha G23 barrel in the slide and the fitment was perfect for both the barrel and the G23 RSA.
 
Here is the frame it will be on full time. Will probably drop in a GPT and a nicer trigger shoe. Maybe even send to be milled for an optic if it performs well at the range.

PSA Smith 1.jpg
PSA Smith 2.jpg
PSA Smith 3.jpg
PSA Smith 4.jpg
 
There has been a few write-ups here on this adaptation. They will show up using the search. I was thinking about it but got distracted by so many other projects. Aside from the threads, seeing complete slides/parts kits going for $50-$60 on GB got my attention. The "gunbusters" usually close their auctions on Sunday nights.
 
When I did mine I initially was afraid to mill enough off the tit on the slide where the
Connector rides.This made me do the tear down, cut and try too many times. I just didn't
want to cut it twice and have it still be too short.....

Also I did my builds using the SW VE kits because I didn't know how the slide
configuration was. I do like the forward serrations on the SD VE slides. Now that
I know the milling process is about the same I might do a few.
 
I may do some more if it works as well as I think it will. The slide feels and looks fantastic on the PSA Dagger S slide. It feels even better with a Glock compatible barrel. Good deals are hard to find on the .40 S&W Glock 23 barrels in stainless finish though there are a ton of 9mm conversion barrels available which I don't want.
 
There has been a few write-ups here on this adaptation. They will show up using the search. I was thinking about it but got distracted by so many other projects. Aside from the threads, seeing complete slides/parts kits going for $50-$60 on GB got my attention. The "gunbusters" usually close their auctions on Sunday nights.
I just came across this yesterday and was wondering if there would be much, if any, different steps to a 9mm project? I got an offer on fleabay for a 9mm slide for under $50. I like the Dagger frames and they are reasonably priced as well.
 
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I just came across this yesterday and was wondering if there would be much, if any, different steps to a 9mm project? I got an offer on fleabay for a 9mm slide for under $50. I like the Dagger frames and they are reasonably priced as well.
Don’t think any difference but I’ve only done one and I’ve already ordered another. The next one should take 30 minutes to an hour to complete. I’m going to send both off for an optic cut after some range time. I will say the slide fits better on a G19 sized P80 than the Dagger S but that’s because the P80 has a longer beaver tail and the rails have better engagement.
 
Don’t think any difference but I’ve only done one and I’ve already ordered another. The next one should take 30 minutes to an hour to complete. I’m going to send both off for an optic cut after some range time. I will say the slide fits better on a G19 sized P80 than the Dagger S but that’s because the P80 has a longer beaver tail and the rails have better engagement.
Thanks for the quick response and information. I got an offer for a 9mm slide, as I mentioned. It’s going for $46.30 tax incl. I have enough glock parts so this should be interestin

PS. I may contact you if I run into an issue, if that’s ok.
 
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Thanks for the quick response and information. I got an offer for a 9mm slide, as I mentioned. It’s going for $46.30 tax incl. I have enough glock parts so this should be interestin

PS. I may contact you if I run into an issue, if that’s ok.
Yeah, anytime, always glad to help. I'm looking forward to building the next one. I may put that one on a standard G19 sized frame. The build makes sense if I do not add an optic as I can build one for less than $150 including the frame. Adding the optic cut costs another $100. Need to find someone who can do it cheaper.
 
Ran some .40 S&W snap caps through it tonight. They loaded perfectly and had a strong ejection when hand cycling the slide. Also added a GPT, minus polished connector, polished GPT bar, and aluminum trigger shoe. Feels so good now. Can’t wait to try this little sucker out.
 
Took it to the range today. Had a blast and it was crazy accurate even with the irons. Was having some light strikes. Not sure it's the gun but I also can't rule against it. Many of the rounds that would not fire, I could continuously try to restrike the round, and the primer would not fire no matter how many times I tried. Was using some old PMC .40 S&W ammo I had. I don't shoot .40 S&W often enough to tell you if it's good or bad ammo but, for arguments sake, I will blame the modifications I did with the striker system.

What I'm going to do is modify the stock S&W firing pin to work with the GPT trigger and put back in all the S&W parts. That should eliminate if the switch to the Gen 5 FP and modified Glock internals is causing issues. I feel with a little more work I can make it perfect. Either way, it was a lot of fun and felt fantastic. I'll be building another very soon.
 
Should have noticed this earlier but I think I have it fixed. The S&W FP has the safety profile of the Gen 3 which is different than the Gen 5. Top is the MIM S&W FP, middle is a Gen 5 I modified to clear the FP safety earlier, the bottom one is the Gen 5 FP as it comes. The Gen 5 will clear but the FP safety has to be all the way depressed. It will now clear with much less engagement of the FP safety much like the S&W FP.
 

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I picked up a SD9VE kit from one of the peddlers. When it shows up I'll do
the slide milling on it and see how it runs. All my builds are gen 3 or older
so being obsolescent maybe it will be easy to make it run.
 
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I picked up a SD9VE kit from one of the peddlers. When it shows up I'll do
the slide milling on it and see how it runs. All my builds are gen 3 or older
so being obsolescent maybe it will be easy to make it run.
You can easily adapt a Gen 3 firing pin. Just have to shave a bit of the top and bottom of the striker tip. It works perfectly.
 
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