Could I fix this?

[DanielL12367477]

I need help is there any chance i could fix this?

 

[Racer88]

That said…The raised posts are a duplicate of Glock - on a Glock they act as an interior guide on the inside of the slide to align it to the Glock rails. On a P80 they aren’t as necessary because P80 combines the locking block with a set of front rails that are 3 times the size of Glock rails. You’ll be fine my friend - I’ve seen it many time without issues

From what I could see looking at my unfinished SC frame, it looks like that area supports the front of the FLBR. If I was to add material back (with JB Weld), it seems to make sense that I'd have the FLBR in place to act as part of the "mold" for the added material... So we don't block that slot. Yes?

 

[Racer88]

Or move out of CA... or try to change the laws there. Good luck!

 

[Racer88]

Hey folks... This is a forum where we're going to have differing opinions and approaches to problem-solving.... ranging from doing nothing to simple approaches to complicated approaches.

My advice to the OP is simply to SLOW DOWN. Hit the pause button. And just soak in some knowledge. Then decided which solution he wants to pursue and stick to it.

Speaking for me... I'm interested in how this can be rectified, as my initial instinct was a "do-over" with a new frame. But, I'm a bit of a noob, myself! So, I hope to see some different ideas, AND I hope to see the final result!

 

[Miltonboro]

Aesthetics aside, do the missing top halves of the two front towers really matter that much structurally?
I mean all four feet of the block are still seated deep in their pockets, and held in place with two pins.
Seems like the two half towers would be a pretty minor percent of the structure??
I'm of course speaking entirely from my gut and little G26 experience. I've never had a frame break so I'm not sure how break-resistant they are??

 

[Michele]

Aesthetics aside, do the missing top halves of the two front towers really matter that much structurally?
I mean all four feet of the block are still seated deep in their pockets, and held in place with two pins.
Seems like the two half towers would be a pretty minor percent of the structure??
I'm of course speaking entirely from my gut and little G26 experience. I've never had a frame break so I'm not sure how break-resistant they are??

No those post don’t do much at all. Several posts on this at MGB forum that were not repaired, all worked fine. Aside from that MGB has stated it doesn’t matter. He has a hella more experience in this than anyone here offering advice and or guessing with no experience.

 

[Racer88]

Aesthetics aside, do the missing top halves of the two front towers really matter that much structurally?

It appears to me that he eliminated the wall below the towers, exposing the front surface of the FLBR (eliminating most of the front "pocket"). He didn't just take out the towers.

 

[Michele]

It appears to me that he eliminated the wall below the towers, exposing the front surface of the FLBR (eliminating most of the front "pocket"). He didn't just take out the towers.

View attachment 4427

Yes, I’m aware. Beating a dead horse here…Those posts don’t really have a high priority for structure integrity. They don’t hold the front block in. I give up on this one.

 

[Racer88]

Yes, I’m aware. Beating a dead horse here…Those posts don’t really have a high priority for structure integrity. They don’t hold the front block in. I give up on this one.

I'm just trying to learn. I think of the "posts" as the part that sticks up above the frame "rail." But in this case, the front wall of the "pocket" was eliminated, too.

Pardon my crude photoshopping. I think of the "towers" as the yellow part of my drawing. But, I'm worried - perhaps unnecessarily - about the part below the towers (red arrows).

Maybe there's enough of a "pocket" below the red arrows to retain the FLBR? Just smooth out the raised / ridges in the channel and run it?

 

[Miltonboro]

Maybe there's enough of a "pocket" below the red arrows to retain the FLBR? Just smooth out the raised / ridges in the channel and run it?

That's my instinct, and what I'd do. But again, just instinct, not expertise.