Question OK... who's RE-building one of their P80s now?

Racer88

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Since there doesn't seem to be much in terms of current NEW builds... who is going BACK to a previous build and modifying / updating / upgrading it?

I've always said a build is never really finished! :geek:

Share in the comments!
 
I need to get back to "The Tank" and figure out the barrel / accuracy issue.

Untitled-3a.jpg


I think the discount / blem barrel I got is a turd.

So, I'm thinking of getting a Bar-sto barrel for it.
 
I confess to swapping-out ROOK SS pins for ROOK DLC-coated pins in my SC last night. I was bored with the bling contrast and wanted all black.
Now I have a TiN bbl and Gold trigger shoe to tone-down likewise.

Next may well be an attempt to serialize said item so I can CC it without any crap from idiots. I need to study up on that. The crew here has a magnificent process.
 
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I'm rebuilding a Lone Wolf Freedom wolf I did 2 years ago as a 22lr gun. I'm going to customize the frame to some extent, and use one of those $89.99 p80 brand 9mm slides.
 
I still have goodies in boxes I haven’t even opened yet…rebuild ? Naw, I need to get through the new stuff 1st 😊
With the very obvious scarcity of new build threads, I thought this might spark some discussion. :)

Post photos, folks! :cool:
 
I wouldn't call it rebuilding but taking advantage of the lull to tidy up some builds. I did swap in some Rook pins in the PF45. They are noticeably longer than OEM pins. Cleaning up some RSA channels. I rounded the front edge of the PF45 grip so it fits my hand better. I noticed that I was only getting hand contact at the corners. Not very secure for a hard kicking round. It feels better and I have more hand contact but it might just be because the stippling is gone. Which leads me down another rabbit hole of stippling. I didn't take of much material at all to get to where I wanted. Just to the bottom of the stippling. I may do the same to the PF940C. It seems a lot jumpier than my Dagger which has a lot more hand contact area.

I bought some titanium rod for pins and made one pin for the trigger housing to the exact length needed. Long term goal is to make a stepped pin out of titanium. It is tricky to turn titanium and not sure my lathe can hold the parts firmly enough to machine the step.
 
Just finishing up on two winter builds but come summertime I do go back and redo some older build when my skills where not as tuned in.
I can't decide which one to redo.
IMG_1448.JPG

I have a lot of time in the dragon grip and would like to save it but the paint really sucks. I have several runs that bugs me every time i take this one out. A good sand blasting is in order but the problem to solve is how to save the dragon. I made it out of JB Weld that doesn't do well when blasted. I'm thinking about just replacing the frame.

My other option is Spartan.
IMG_1371.JPG

Light needs to go!
This was one of my best paint jobs. Three color battle worn.
I don't know just something about this build that bug me.
Both need trigger work, but I am in the process of doing trigger work on my Freedom Wolf builds now.
That might be a good post, triggers in LW builds. I have a lot to say about getting them to work hell I have lots to say about parts in LW builds and how there hard to fit.
 
Just finishing up on two winter builds but come summertime I do go back and redo some older build when my skills where not as tuned in.
I can't decide which one to redo.
View attachment 17673
I have a lot of time in the dragon grip and would like to save it but the paint really sucks. I have several runs that bugs me every time i take this one out. A good sand blasting is in order but the problem to solve is how to save the dragon. I made it out of JB Weld that doesn't do well when blasted. I'm thinking about just replacing the frame.

My other option is Spartan.
View attachment 17674
Light needs to go!
This was one of my best paint jobs. Three color battle worn.
I don't know just something about this build that bug me.
Both need trigger work, but I am in the process of doing trigger work on my Freedom Wolf builds now.
That might be a good post, triggers in LW builds. I have a lot to say about getting them to work hell I have lots to say about parts in LW builds and how there hard to fit.
The dragon is cool.
 
Just finishing up on two winter builds but come summertime I do go back and redo some older build when my skills where not as tuned in.
I can't decide which one to redo.
View attachment 17673
I have a lot of time in the dragon grip and would like to save it but the paint really sucks. I have several runs that bugs me every time i take this one out. A good sand blasting is in order but the problem to solve is how to save the dragon. I made it out of JB Weld that doesn't do well when blasted. I'm thinking about just replacing the frame.

My other option is Spartan.
View attachment 17674
Light needs to go!
This was one of my best paint jobs. Three color battle worn.
I don't know just something about this build that bug me.
Both need trigger work, but I am in the process of doing trigger work on my Freedom Wolf builds now.
That might be a good post, triggers in LW builds. I have a lot to say about getting them to work hell I have lots to say about parts in LW builds and how there hard to fit.
I'm really liking the top one-the dragon serpent one. What are you planning to change about it?
 
The dragon is cool.
I built this one before I could make stencils. I ordered a metal stamp from china that took months to get here. Then stamped out the dragon 0n vinyl. I need to think about it, but this one has to be on the top list for a makeover.
 
Post photos, folks! :cool:
It's pretty rough at this stage. but these are for you, mangly man. It's a LW Freedom Wolf frame, and p80 brand slide.
Edit; I have no idea how turn the pictures. They are saved as right side up, the site's picture hosting turns them 90* to the left.
 
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It's pretty rough at this stage. but these are for you, mangly man. It's a LW Freedom Wolf frame, and p80 brand slide.
Edit; I have no idea how turn the pictures. They are saved as right side up, the site's picture hosting turns them 90* to the left.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xp9P8gnpQKE

I need to re-sand and polish again, but this is the slide for the above LW Freedomwolf "assembly".
 
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I'm still looking for a couple SW40VE kits so I can do upper swaps with the guns that have SW9VE uppers on them. And I still need conversion barrels for some Glock OEM 22 and 23 slide and barrel assemblies.

FWIW, the Polymer80 serialized and populated lowers run great with both Glock OEM slide assemblies and the SW9VE's I've modified.(You do enough Smith slides and you'll finally get the bugs out)
 
I've done a little tinkering with my Taurus PT111. It is my "toolbox" gun and is reliable and "accurate" at self-defense distances. Shown next to a Lorcin 380. The Lork EMPTY weighs 4oz MORE than the PT111 with 12+1 rounds in it. :eek:

lorc3.jpg

I bought a PT140 (.40) parts kit from GB and a .40 mag from debay. I posted on it at the Taurus forum HERE. I haven't had a chance to update my post there but about all I've done is fire ONE .40 round (dropped into the chamber) at the range and that was it. I didn't have the .40 mag yet and will see how it works the next range outing. I'll also try the 9mm slide on the .40 frame to see if it still works but the 9mm mag has to be shimmed to stay retained by the release as the mag well is larger with the .40 frame.

I'm probably going to return the PT111 to its 9mm configuration as I'm not liking the slight amount (1/16") of fore/aft movement of the .40 slide on the PT111 "chassis" when not in battery. The chassis is in the PT140 frame. I couldn't figure out what the issue was without a .40 chassis to compare to. Everything else looks OK...

Interestingly, you can buy a gun "parts kit" on debay and that is probably where this one and the mag will go. The .40 mag is a 10-rounder so it is "ok" to sell there.
 
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