OK can't do pics at the moment as lifes going in 300 different directions.... and doubt pics will help anyway just needa know how many people have succesfully gotten the CNC rails sold by 5d top actually work... have 3 76% completed and they all work perfectly with stamped p80 rails but trigger will not reset with the cnc rails and in fact the doner p80 940v2 thats ran 200% reliable for my friend and in fact is his EDC gun will not reset the trigger if we swap in the cnc rails so...... this tells me the problem has nothing to do with any of the 3 76% frames (all of which work perfectly with the stamped rails) or the 1 80% frame and everything to do with the cnc rails being out of spec so wondering how anyone has managed to get them to actually work or is 5d just dumpin outa spec rails on the community to get rid of them with a free frame for $75??
76% p80 no trigger reset with milled rails works beautifully with stamped P80 rails
- Thread starter arizona2a
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thats what I'm thinking cause even bending it out has zero effect... wondering if anyone else has delt with these rails cause they are the only variable that makes each p80 stop functioning tried all 3 rear rail sets with the same result and every gun works normally with stamped p80 rear rails installed
I purchased 6 sets of rails for the compact P80 from them and all work great but that's been a few years ago. Sounds like they may be out of spec and riding too low. Have you measured the distance from the trigger pin hole to the top of the rails on each and see if there is a difference or the top of the frame to the top of the rail? You can most likely make them work but you may have to run a P80 trigger bar or bend your cruciform. If the rails are riding too low, it can cause too much engagement so the cruciform can't drop away from the firing pin lug. Have you looked at it with an armorer's plate?
Typically, when a rail is making the slide ride too low you also have other issues like the slide not functioning smoothly or the VE rubbing hard against the underneath of the slide. There's also the issue with 76% builds if you remove too much material and the trigger bar is not making good enough contact with the connector.
Are you running OE trigger bar and housing or aftermarket?
Typically, when a rail is making the slide ride too low you also have other issues like the slide not functioning smoothly or the VE rubbing hard against the underneath of the slide. There's also the issue with 76% builds if you remove too much material and the trigger bar is not making good enough contact with the connector.
Are you running OE trigger bar and housing or aftermarket?
when cocked OR if ya pull and hold the trigger gently it works and resets normally if ya hold the trigger back anything less than lightly wile racking the slide ya get a dead trigger ya can push the trigger forward and it will reset
I've never ran into this before myself.... but most of my builds for glocks are all lonewolf freedom wolf and never had a single issue with them.. they are also the only 80% that will run my advantage arms conversion reliably anything else I gotta bend the connector to get reset etc....
all 3 function perfectly with stamped p80 rails....and every measurment between the 76% frames and the original 80% my 76% are identical... triggure housing pockets are perfectly smooth and measure out identical.... it actually was super easy clearing out the 76% trigger housing pocket... simple used a 1/4" end mill to plunge down to 1.430 3 times right ontop of the + junction of the blocking material then the remaining sliced out super easy and very clean with a #4 exacto chisle point blade followed up with a 1/4" flat file and a 3/8" flat/curved file no exotic hot knives or ultra sonic cutters etc.. needed...... tommorow I'll get some pics done today dealing with 3 critical crisis one being brand new dishwasher flooding my mothers kitchen floor and water logging the chip board sub floor.................
I've never ran into this before myself.... but most of my builds for glocks are all lonewolf freedom wolf and never had a single issue with them.. they are also the only 80% that will run my advantage arms conversion reliably anything else I gotta bend the connector to get reset etc....
all 3 function perfectly with stamped p80 rails....and every measurment between the 76% frames and the original 80% my 76% are identical... triggure housing pockets are perfectly smooth and measure out identical.... it actually was super easy clearing out the 76% trigger housing pocket... simple used a 1/4" end mill to plunge down to 1.430 3 times right ontop of the + junction of the blocking material then the remaining sliced out super easy and very clean with a #4 exacto chisle point blade followed up with a 1/4" flat file and a 3/8" flat/curved file no exotic hot knives or ultra sonic cutters etc.. needed...... tommorow I'll get some pics done today dealing with 3 critical crisis one being brand new dishwasher flooding my mothers kitchen floor and water logging the chip board sub floor.................
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I was thinking bout bending the cruciform up a lil bit but these rails do sit lower than the factory p80 ones do... my buddy took his p80 home with him as its his edc so its no longer available and the only p80 I have is an SC everything else is lonewolf and geisler or factory 100% frames (sct and grit grips and 100% timberwolf) so don't have it available now to measure factory stamped rails... but they sit higher than the 5d rails do for sure
If you don’t have an armorer’s plate, cut a plastic slide cover plate in half below the metal ears. Look at how the cruciform is interacting with the firing pin lug before you bend anything.
Do this too. Place some paper or a shim between the wall of the frame and the outside of the rails on the right side so the rail sits tighter to the trigger housing and holds the connector in a bit tighter. You may have removed too much material. If so, not a huge deal as it can be fixed with a shim, melting plastic, or using some epoxy.
Do this too. Place some paper or a shim between the wall of the frame and the outside of the rails on the right side so the rail sits tighter to the trigger housing and holds the connector in a bit tighter. You may have removed too much material. If so, not a huge deal as it can be fixed with a shim, melting plastic, or using some epoxy.
I have an armorers plate as stated I've done alot of glock 80% and have been a gunsmith for 40 years these are the first p80 76% ones I've done and the only 80% I've not had work 100% right off the start..... the rails are very tight to the trigger housing there is no room to shim them... and the trigger housing has zero movement, pins slide in perfectly to anchor rails and trigger housings just like my factory G19.4... they all function absolutely perfect with stamped rails just stop functioning with the milled rails including the factory p80 80% gun my buddy brought over to see if I could fix his failure to reset (he bought ones the $75 kits just for the rails and gave me the 76% frame to play with as he wanted the "upgraded rails for his EDC p80 etc.. but it stopped working with the new rails....
ETA: It wasn't the rails! Keep reading the thread!
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thats kinda where I'm at... just write it off as getting screwed over by 5d tactical dumping out of spec rails as "on sale" to get rid of junk they machined outa spec... just sucks cause I got my buddy to buy his kit for the rails specifically as he doesn't like how high his slide rides with the p80 stamped rails........ told him If I can't figure out how to get them to work I'd buy the rails off of him as 5d tactical has an "all sales are final" no refunds posting...... if it turns out they are outa spec tell ya what I'll be done ever buying from them again I've bought AR lowers from them several times a couple that had issues but I'm a machinist so fixing them is no big deal but with these I don't even know where to start as have never ran into anything like this with any 80% everything pointing to junk outa spec rails they wanted to dump on the 80% community rather than eat the loss................... unless someone can come up with a better answer I'll have to go with that one and like I said I'll be done with them as I don't deal with dishonest companies.............Welp.... It sounds like it's time to shit-can those rails, eh?
eta I sent them a message outlining the same thing... all guns function 100% with stamped rails don't function with their rails we'll see if they get back to me...
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Time to brand the cruciform. You can also trim the firing pin lug but make sure not to use it on another frame.
ETA: Rails are bueno! It was the trigger housing. Keep reading the thread!
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Probably the best advice would be to let them know they are out of spec and get a refund or replacement but odds are if one is out of spec they all may be.
Mine were compact rails from them, yours?
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Their P80 rails. Split front rails, locking block, milled rear rails solution.
Well figured it out... it was not the 5D rails but rather.... the "known good" oem trigger housings!
Most of my 80% builds are all on lone wolf frames whiich use gen 4 trigger housings, the only others are 4 geislers and a bunch of 3d printed variations most using the Strike 80 versions from the "final strike" pack etc.. so all of my gen 3 oem housings have seen use in alot of 3d printed frames.. the sheet metal rear rails usually don't line up 100% with the printed pin holes OR the more common issue is the housing pin goes in with just the rails or just the trigger housing but if installed together the trigger housing pushes the pin slightly off center and requires tapping to install etc...
Well all of the trigger housing pin holes as a result are slightly egged.. they work perfectly when used in stamped rail guns.. but when installed with 5D rails that have a very snug hole machined into them... the trigger housing is able to shift it seems just enough to keep it from resetting if the trigger is pulled firmly back ........
the only non glock oem trigger housing I have right now is some "universal" thing thats modded to work in gen 3 or 4 it came with a lower parts kit and as it was non oem I just tossed it into the parts bin... well last night I decided to try it and instant cure... it fits nice and tight etc... I ordered a half dozen brand new oem housings to have in inventory as apparently the 4 I normally use are now out of spec enough to cause issues.... I pulled the TH outa onea the geislers and installed it into each of the 76% frames and it works perfectly so when the new oem ones arrive will set them up.. need to wait for the other g17 slides to get here as well as only have 2 g17 slides everything I have for "glocks" are all g19 or 26 or 43x pattern and now need to order another 76% as I always build "twins" and will be 1 short 1 gun gets green dot and its twin gets Ameriglo irons with tritium front black rear sights.... I just use oem standard sights on the RDS guns as I don't need to co witness or have backups etc.. (have been using the Gowurtar or holosun Vulcan accs sights since 2021 and have not had one fail yet and batteries consistently last 2 years but get swapped yearly) so needa do 1 more then back to getting AR10 lowers milled and 4 vz58s assembled... made the vz 58 milled receivers 15 years ago when still had my shop they are WAY over do for getting built! 27 non glocks is enough well probably keep playing with 3d printed ones but these will be the last 80% errrr 76% versions unless Strike 80 comes back or lonewolf starts a version of the freedom wolf again, not terribly impressed with the geislers or the p80 76% versions
I'll attach a few pics here of the 76% after using end mill to create the "floor" of the TH then some pics probably out of order along the way.. the final finish is actually ALOT smoother than it appears in pics.. hi res has disadvantages, these are the trigger housing pockets fresh off the mill ya can do exact same with a drill press if there is any runout use a 3/16" end mill rather than 1/4" as theres no room for error with the 1/4" bit , then pics of finished and shooting.. not sure which one that its they all look pretty much identical..... I'll try to add the rest to onea the 76% threads, the only tools needed one ya have the floor set is a #4 chisle exacto blade and a 1/4" flat file and a bent flat file as in the pic to finish the cleanup it takes about 1.5 hours not difficult at all.... I cut the remnants of the "ribbs" into small blocks with the #4 by cutting straight down to the curve every 1/8" or so then sliced em off from rear of frame going around the curve by pre segmenting the ribs it prevents the blade from following and trying to cut too deep...
BTW this is a "universal" trigger housing for those who aren't aware and what is working in these pending oem glock gen 3s getting here
Most of my 80% builds are all on lone wolf frames whiich use gen 4 trigger housings, the only others are 4 geislers and a bunch of 3d printed variations most using the Strike 80 versions from the "final strike" pack etc.. so all of my gen 3 oem housings have seen use in alot of 3d printed frames.. the sheet metal rear rails usually don't line up 100% with the printed pin holes OR the more common issue is the housing pin goes in with just the rails or just the trigger housing but if installed together the trigger housing pushes the pin slightly off center and requires tapping to install etc...
Well all of the trigger housing pin holes as a result are slightly egged.. they work perfectly when used in stamped rail guns.. but when installed with 5D rails that have a very snug hole machined into them... the trigger housing is able to shift it seems just enough to keep it from resetting if the trigger is pulled firmly back ........
the only non glock oem trigger housing I have right now is some "universal" thing thats modded to work in gen 3 or 4 it came with a lower parts kit and as it was non oem I just tossed it into the parts bin... well last night I decided to try it and instant cure... it fits nice and tight etc... I ordered a half dozen brand new oem housings to have in inventory as apparently the 4 I normally use are now out of spec enough to cause issues.... I pulled the TH outa onea the geislers and installed it into each of the 76% frames and it works perfectly so when the new oem ones arrive will set them up.. need to wait for the other g17 slides to get here as well as only have 2 g17 slides everything I have for "glocks" are all g19 or 26 or 43x pattern and now need to order another 76% as I always build "twins" and will be 1 short 1 gun gets green dot and its twin gets Ameriglo irons with tritium front black rear sights.... I just use oem standard sights on the RDS guns as I don't need to co witness or have backups etc.. (have been using the Gowurtar or holosun Vulcan accs sights since 2021 and have not had one fail yet and batteries consistently last 2 years but get swapped yearly) so needa do 1 more then back to getting AR10 lowers milled and 4 vz58s assembled... made the vz 58 milled receivers 15 years ago when still had my shop they are WAY over do for getting built! 27 non glocks is enough well probably keep playing with 3d printed ones but these will be the last 80% errrr 76% versions unless Strike 80 comes back or lonewolf starts a version of the freedom wolf again, not terribly impressed with the geislers or the p80 76% versions
I'll attach a few pics here of the 76% after using end mill to create the "floor" of the TH then some pics probably out of order along the way.. the final finish is actually ALOT smoother than it appears in pics.. hi res has disadvantages, these are the trigger housing pockets fresh off the mill ya can do exact same with a drill press if there is any runout use a 3/16" end mill rather than 1/4" as theres no room for error with the 1/4" bit , then pics of finished and shooting.. not sure which one that its they all look pretty much identical..... I'll try to add the rest to onea the 76% threads, the only tools needed one ya have the floor set is a #4 chisle exacto blade and a 1/4" flat file and a bent flat file as in the pic to finish the cleanup it takes about 1.5 hours not difficult at all.... I cut the remnants of the "ribbs" into small blocks with the #4 by cutting straight down to the curve every 1/8" or so then sliced em off from rear of frame going around the curve by pre segmenting the ribs it prevents the blade from following and trying to cut too deep...
BTW this is a "universal" trigger housing for those who aren't aware and what is working in these pending oem glock gen 3s getting here
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The "wall of text" is throwing me. So, I understand it was the trigger housing (and NOT the rails!). Great that you figured it out! Which trigger housing (brand) is causing the problem?
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