Help! Patriot80Builder's troubleshooting thread.

Patriotp80builder said:
I sanded down the crossbar more and started racking my slide w/ rooks installed, was difficult but manageable, then I took off the slide and saw a chunk missing from my trigger housing.... swapped out the rooks with p80 rails and racked it a lot, no more chunks missing and was easier to rack. Still have more material on the crossbar to remove it seems. This build is killing me smh. How did my slide even take that big chunk of polymer out?1?
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Is this the same one with the misdrilled rear pin holes? Housing is consequently too high and interfering with slide?
 
Racer88 said:
Is this the same one with the misdrilled rear pin holes? Housing is consequently too high and interfering with slide?
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Yep same one... interestingly enough the issue disappeared when I swapped back to my stock p80 rails. Although my rooks sat lower than them.
 
Wtf… just swapped back to my p80 rears and it’s racking fine?!!??? With my rook rails it was NOT racking.
Will oil and rack probably around 3-400 times tomorrow to break in the rails, then attach my armorers backplate to safety check. Will be running my p80 rails instead of Rook Tactical from now on.
 
Patriotp80builder said:
Wtf… just swapped back to my p80 rears and it’s racking fine?!!??? With my rook rails it was NOT racking.
Will oil and rack probably around 3-400 times tomorrow to break in the rails, then attach my armorers backplate to safety check. Will be running my p80 rails instead of Rook Tactical from now on.
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This is going against common p80 build thinking (dudes that didn't do it right), but a properly done p80 requires no break in.
 
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Break-in depends on many things, but I do it to all my builds regardless as it makes the gun more reliable from the start. Especially the large frame models as the manufacturing consistency is not there with large frame slides and barrels. Vertical extensions do not always work without break-in. Glock also recommends going through a 200-round break-in before sending their guns back for service.

Cerakoted guns done by some can have excessive build up in the rails and breechface which will need to be removed. I've found racking a few hundred times will break down the Cerakote in the rails. It's nuts how much gunk will come out after a break-in process. As you know, if the Cerakote is too thick on the breech face, the gun can have light strikes, no bueno.

I have found that if you buy the same slides and barrels that were meant to work together it will greatly reduce the need for break-in but not always eliminate. Mixing and matching manufacturers can cause issues. For example, many of the Alpha slides I carry do not work with all barrels. I will have to hand fit the barrel to the slide to get them to work. That same barrel will drop into every other slide without issue. I almost wonder if Alpha does that intentionally to sell their barrels.
 
Why you would futz with the trigger? Seems like this would create another problem... increase the likelihood of stacking/fitment issues. It seems unlikely the trigger housing being wrong sized - or the frame in that area. Unless it's 75% frame and you hogged it out incorrectly. Either too much or not enough.

It appears there is a fitment issue between your rails and the slide. It the slide wobbles side-to side, get better (thicker) rails or swap out the slide.
 
Is this the same gun where you hogged out the pin holes to get them to fit?

And now you're shimming the trigger housing?? With tape??? Oy! No. No shimming. No tape. No more bubble gum and paper clips. This is a GUN, not a benign toy. It's intended to contain an explosion in your hands inches from your face. It's also intended to predictably, precisely, and reliably expel a high speed projectile capable of killing when you pull the trigger.

I submit that the trigger housing is moving because the pins are moving in the modified pin holes. It isn't secure.

I further submit that the quality and reliability of a build begins and ends with the pin holes. As we have suggested before... Time to plug those holes and re-drill (with a new jig). OR... get a new frame and start over. No shame in doing that. Many have done the same before you. It's a learning process.
 
Surely, I am not the only one that is frustrated with this particular build.

Firstly, I would suggest keeping a single thread to sort out the problems with your attempt at building a firearm. One build, one thread, please.

Starting a new thread for each encountered problem, removes context that may be necessary in finding a solution that could get it running reliably. Keeping everything in one thread is always best, IMHO.

Those responding to your inquiries are experienced in building reliable firearms and have offered suggestions that are seemingly ignored. If you aren't going to follow the advice given, why bother to seek help?

Plug the holes with JB Weld and re-drill them in the correct position. Surface preparation is very important for bonding to be permanent. Fit the rear rail properly, install the pins without use of a hammer, and you will likely be successful.

Continuing along your current path will leave you with a non-working hunk of plastic and metal, that is only good for throwing at an attacker.

Over, and out!
 
There are 👻guns. And there are Reddit guns.

As they say on GT... If you want a Glock. Go buy one. :) Sometimes this is a better choice.

There's a reason why a majority of private pilots purchase an airplane vs, build their own. One reason is they can learn to pilot the aircraft but have trouble drilling a hole. Different skill set.
 
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GuitarmanNick said:
Surely, I am not the only one that is frustrated with this particular build.

Firstly, I would suggest keeping a single thread to sort out the problems with your attempt at building a firearm. One build, one thread, please.

Starting a new thread for each encountered problem, removes context that may be necessary in finding a solution that could get it running reliably. Keeping everything in one thread is always best, IMHO.

Those responding to your inquiries are experienced in building reliable firearms and have offered suggestions that are seemingly ignored. If you aren't going to follow the advice given, why bother to seek help?

Plug the holes with JB Weld and re-drill them in the correct position. Surface preparation is very important for bonding to be permanent. Fit the rear rail properly, install the pins without use of a hammer, and you will likely be successful.

Continuing along your current path will leave you with a non-working hunk of plastic and metal, that is only good for throwing at an attacker.

Over, and out!
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Hallelujah. (y)
 
Racer88 said:
Is this the same gun where you hogged out the pin holes to get them to fit?

And now you're shimming the trigger housing?? With tape??? Oy! No. No shimming. No tape. No more bubble gum and paper clips. This is a GUN, not a benign toy. It's intended to contain an explosion in your hands inches from your face. It's also intended to predictably, precisely, and reliably expel a high speed projectile capable of killing when you pull the trigger.

I submit that the trigger housing is moving because the pins are moving in the modified pin holes. It isn't secure.

I further submit that the quality and reliability of a build begins and ends with the pin holes. As we have suggested before... Time to plug those holes and re-drill (with a new jig). OR... get a new frame and start over. No shame in doing that. Many have done the same before you. It's a learning process.
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Do you have a video tutorial on how to JBweld a p80 frame correctly? Don't wanna mess it up.
also, would this work? https://www.lowes.com/pd/J-B-WELD-Plastic-Bonder-Brown-Epoxy-Adhesive/1000820860
 
Patriotp80builder said:
Unfortunately I don't have any frame shavings left! She said the best epoxy option is the clear jbweld mixed with frame shavings... don't want to do the baking soda method.
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That's all I've got here that I know of. I haven't had to fill / redrill any holes, so no personal experience.
 
Racer88 said:
That's all I've got here that I know of. I haven't had to fill / redrill any holes, so no personal experience.
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All good! Thanks for merging all my posts into this thread. Will drive to home depot now and grab a pack of clear JBweld as she recommended. Maybe I can find some stuff around the house thats similar to fde that I can shave down and mix w/ the jbweld.
 
Patriotp80builder said:
All good! Thanks for merging all my posts into this thread. Will drive to home depot now and grab a pack of clear JBweld as she recommended. Maybe I can find some stuff around the house thats similar to fde that I can shave down and mix w/ the jbweld.
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Or if you don't care about a little color mismatch, I wouldn't worry about the color-matched shavings.
 

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