Ill be completeling my lower ar15 this weekend I have a dremel with flex shaft. Watching the MGB vids I fig it be a good idea to apply that mentality to this build What do you experienced builders recommend for polisher sanders and buffing attachments. Any tips and hints out there. The lower is aluminum with fde cerakot Thanks in advance if any1 does reply
AR 15 FTQ
- Thread starter elw71
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Welcome to the party. 
He Big Kahuna Admin a.k.a. Racer88 will along in a little bit with some suggestions.
He Big Kahuna Admin a.k.a. Racer88 will along in a little bit with some suggestions.
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5D tactical jig is the best option for AR15 lower. Don't even try Dremel, that would take forever and be dangerous. You can order from the site 1 week lead time, not sure how accurate that is these days. Also, try facebook and other online marketplace for used one for a lot less.
www.5dtactical.com
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Router Jig PRO Multiplatform 80% Lower Jig - AR-15/AR-9/AR-45/.308/AR-10
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www.5dtactical.com
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Haha.... I don't know much about building ARs. Not much meaning pretty much nothing.Welcome to the party.
He Big Kahuna Admin a.k.a. Racer88 will along in a little bit with some suggestions.
But there are plenty of experts in da house.
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of course, I think I need to cut off reddit for a while. In my head I thought you were going to use dremel for cutting.
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I meant forum introduction "suggestions," LOL!Haha.... I don't know much about building ARs. Not much meaning pretty much nothing.
But there are plenty of experts in da house.
There's not a lot you want to grind or sand on the lower. I usually use a deburring tool on the holes and polish up the edges so they aren't so sharp. If you get grinding and sanding on them they're going to end up loose.
The trigger is where you can make the most difference. Mil spec triggers are perfectly functional out of the box, but you can smooth them out a great deal by polishing all the contact points.
You can also sand and grind a little bit, but I would suggest that you have some spare parts before you do that, because it doesn't take much to ruin something. It also doesn't take much to get a mil spec trigger to feel like a high dollar drop in either. Just know that you will shake your head and say, "Damn, I should've stopped there" lol. That's what the spare parts are for.
The trigger is where you can make the most difference. Mil spec triggers are perfectly functional out of the box, but you can smooth them out a great deal by polishing all the contact points.
You can also sand and grind a little bit, but I would suggest that you have some spare parts before you do that, because it doesn't take much to ruin something. It also doesn't take much to get a mil spec trigger to feel like a high dollar drop in either. Just know that you will shake your head and say, "Damn, I should've stopped there" lol. That's what the spare parts are for.
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Only thing I would suggest for the moment is to put the dremel aside and don't worry about polishing anything. When you are done with the easy jig, the only finish work will be to break the sharp edges left by the router, and deburr the holes left by the drill bits. Nothing in the lower to polish.
I would also hold off on any attempt to polish, grind, stone, or otherwise alter any component in the fire control group. Most of these parts are just surface hardened. When you attempt to smooth the surfaces, you run the very real risk of going though that hard surface and exposing the underlying softer steel to wear. This sort of work is best left for well after you have a functional lower receiver.
The other advice... take your time. The router can do the work, but can also ruin the work if you try to cut too fast. Trying to rush the work will lead to damage. I use a milling machine to do my lowers, but I am just as susceptible to trying to rush the work... and a mill can do exponentially more damage than a router
I would also hold off on any attempt to polish, grind, stone, or otherwise alter any component in the fire control group. Most of these parts are just surface hardened. When you attempt to smooth the surfaces, you run the very real risk of going though that hard surface and exposing the underlying softer steel to wear. This sort of work is best left for well after you have a functional lower receiver.
The other advice... take your time. The router can do the work, but can also ruin the work if you try to cut too fast. Trying to rush the work will lead to damage. I use a milling machine to do my lowers, but I am just as susceptible to trying to rush the work... and a mill can do exponentially more damage than a router
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Thank you thats a great tip
Thank you I also read your post on the #23 and #24 drill bit for trigger pinOnly thing I would suggest for the moment is to put the dremel aside and don't worry about polishing anything. When you are done with the easy jig, the only finish work will be to break the sharp edges left by the router, and deburr the holes left by the drill bits. Nothing in the lower to polish.
I would also hold off on any attempt to polish, grind, stone, or otherwise alter any component in the fire control group. Most of these parts are just surface hardened. When you attempt to smooth the surfaces, you run the very real risk of going though that hard surface and exposing the underlying softer steel to wear. This sort of work is best left for well after you have a functional lower receiver.
The other advice... take your time. The router can do the work, but can also ruin the work in you try to cut too fast. Trying to rush the work will lead to damage. I use a milling machine to do my lowers, but I am just as susceptible to trying to rush the work... and a mill can do exponentially more damage than a router
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If you decide to do any polishing to the trigger components, a Dremel should be avoided.
My suggestion is to use a fine stone which reduces the risk of removing too much material and possibly ruining the parts.
Great care must be taken to insure you do not change any of the angles.
The "trigger work" done on my ARs has resulted in about a 4.5 pound average pull.
If you want to be completely safe, place a small amount of a fine polishing compound on the trigger contact surfaces, insert a pad of some type in the lower in front of the hammer to act as a cushion(I use a thick piece of leather), and work the trigger until you feel the grittiness go away. It should not take long.
Remove the components and thoroughly clean off any remaining compound, and reinstall. This should give you a very nice trigger feel without damaging the critical surfaces.
My suggestion is to use a fine stone which reduces the risk of removing too much material and possibly ruining the parts.
Great care must be taken to insure you do not change any of the angles.
The "trigger work" done on my ARs has resulted in about a 4.5 pound average pull.
If you want to be completely safe, place a small amount of a fine polishing compound on the trigger contact surfaces, insert a pad of some type in the lower in front of the hammer to act as a cushion(I use a thick piece of leather), and work the trigger until you feel the grittiness go away. It should not take long.
Remove the components and thoroughly clean off any remaining compound, and reinstall. This should give you a very nice trigger feel without damaging the critical surfaces.
The easiest thing to do is install a better trigger than the standard issue trigger, unless you just like to tinker. These run the gamut from very affordable single stage, to $100+ single and two stage.
As far as the issue type trigger is concerned, I had a bud that had the issue trigger that was NB coated and it was quite good if single stage is what you want. This is the most cost effective way to get a better trigger without tinkering. Oh, and lube it with moly grease. The moly grease is also good for using on the aluminum upper receiver threads to prevent galling from the steel barrel nut.
As far as the issue type trigger is concerned, I had a bud that had the issue trigger that was NB coated and it was quite good if single stage is what you want. This is the most cost effective way to get a better trigger without tinkering. Oh, and lube it with moly grease. The moly grease is also good for using on the aluminum upper receiver threads to prevent galling from the steel barrel nut.
Aeroshell 64 Anti-Seize Thread Grease - 1/2 oz
Aeroshell 64 Anti-Seize Thread Grease - 1/2 oz
www.joeboboutfitters.com
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I can say firsthand that the polished NB 2-stage trigger upgrade from PSA (which is under 100 and even lesser if you get it on sale) is an incredible trigger and I’d put it up against any $300 trigger. Seriously. It’s that good, and consistent. I purchased two for two builds, and they are identically excellent. I got mine on sale for $69.99 each and even at regular price are worthwhile components.
FWIW..
FWIW..