Gen 4 Poly80 Build

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MetalGoat

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Hello everyone, I am new to the world of building Poly80 Glocks. To make it interesting I decided on building a PF940V2 with a Gen 4 Glock 17 slide. However, I noticed a real lack of any type of information to modifying the Poly80, safely with a Gen 4 slide. So, my goal is to attempt and create one that others can follow. Is there anyone else who has done this and can provide proof of a successful mod? What steps did you take?

So far,
- I have hand filed and fitted the slide to the frame.
- Prepped cleaned the tactical rail slot. Filling it in with JB weld Plastic Bonder.

I want to remove the JB weld and use something that's compatible with Zytel/ Nylon 6. I found Plexus MA300 and another company called TBBonding that offers a product that looks promising. Does anybody know of a better alternative to JB Weld?
 
Welcome and thanks for joining! Sounds like an ambitious project for a first-timer... Out of my "wheelhouse," for sure. But, there are some folks here who DO know about this stuff.
 
The easiest way is to use Lone Freedom Wolff frame with gen 4 or 5 slide.
the P80 frames you need to widen the channel for the new recoil spring be able to move inside
and doing that there is not much material left on the side , so might need to reinfore from outside with some jb weld, otherwise it wont hold and will crack.
check his channel on odysee
he was moding the strike 80 frames too, but they are all gone now.
odysee.com

P80 Ralph

NOT AFFILIATED WITH POLYMER80 OR STRIKE INDUSTRIES! MODIFYING YOUR FRAME WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY!!! MODIFY AT YOUR OWN RISK! IM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR DAMAGED FRAME! These are my opinions based o...
odysee.com odysee.com
 
ROOK Tactical Edition Polymer 80 | Rook Tactical
This is the ROOK Tactical Edition Polymer80 specifically in the CL frame format. These are the LAST CL frames in existence direct from the factory that we know of! We have upgraded all of these frames with OUR own machined front and rear rails and dimpled pin sets. The only colors available are FDE aka Coyote/Tan and ODG!!
$225.00Price

The kit includes:
  • 80% Polymer Pistol Frame
  • Polymer Jig
  • Drill Bits
  • ROOK Tacticals Locking Block Rail System and Rear Rail Module
  • ROOK Tactical Polymer80 Dimpled Pin Kit in Stainless Steel
  • ROOK Tactical Gen 5 Slide Lock Spring
  • ROOK Tactical NEW morale patch
  • FREE Priority Shipping!
That is the easiest way to go is to use CL frame
 
I use a lot of JB Weld in frame mods. One thing I don't like about JB Weld is you cannot stipple it. If there is something else, I can use that will stipple I would like to know.

I have used JB Weld on several builds filling in the rail for a slick smooth look. For a gen 4 on a p-80 like you said you have to fill in the rail for a safe build. What JB weld did you use?

There are different mix of JB Weld this is the only one I use because it will bold to polymer not just stick.
IMG_1299.JPG

It sands easy and takes paint well. It is hard and will not crack.
If there is something better, I would like to know.
I have tried five other types of two-part epoxy but they didn't bond, they just stuck and would pull off, not bond.
 
V2 and Strike frame need to sand a ton of RSA channel to fit Gen4/5 slide. Freedom frame is designed for Gen4/5 slide.

CL frame would be easier, only need to sand the front lip of RSA channel.
20220713_112633.jpg

This is CL with Gen5 Slide & Gen5 Trigger Assembly.
Edit: Gen 5 barrel doesn't work 🤦‍♂️ ... use Gen 1-4 G17 barrel (y)
20220713_114114.jpg20220713_114221.jpg

updated: Tip! Rook's CL frame Gen options
 
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Wow thanks for the responses and very cool builds! I really like the slide and optic with the od green!

I will take some photos of what I have done so far. I want to sculp the front to look like a first gen. I like pottery and sculpting so I want to make sure I the strongest bond possible. I used JB Weld Plastic Bonder to fill in the rail.
Michele said:
Have you tried baking soda and superglue ? There’s a chemical reaction that heats up for a second and binds the two materials together.
Click to expand...
Interesting. Dose this form a covalent bond?
 
I tried the plastic bond on a build late last year. It does not bond it sticks. After three days of cure time, it would pull off like sticky tape. I all so noticed that in the center of thick plastic bond it never set up.
It was easy to pull off so after taking it off I redid with JB Weld (above post) I have tried a lot of different epoxies, and this is the best I have found. It bonds to the polymer; you can't pull it off it has to be sanded off.

I too wanted to have the look of a gen 1-2 on a couple of builds.
IMG_1343.JPG

IMG_1411.JPG

IMG_1412.JPG

All did with JB Weld (above post) I molded in the magwell too for a clean solid frame look.

I am all ways looking for something better that can be stippled but so far for me this is the best, but I can't stipple it.
 
First a big thanks to all with the likes ;)

MetaGoat- If you are interested in doing frame mods, I can show you some how-to pictures on all kinds of frame mods that I have done along with tips on using JB Weld. It is NOT hard it just takes time to do all the sanding and shaping. I can help in re-shaping frames without using any JB Weld. Just ask what you need help with.
 
That would be awesome! I just came down with covid so I got the time.
 
I started doing mods to frame because I hate the looks of P-80s, I think they look cheap with all those squared off edges and I defiantly hate that square trigger guard, so I have changed the looks of them.

MetalGoat, what do you have I mind for you build?
Trigger guard mods?
Changes to the rails area?
Rounding off all squared off edges?
I can show you how to put logos in the grip area
help with stippling and painting Whatever you need help with as far as mods to a frame.

It would probably be good to start another thread on the mods you want to do.

Sorry to hear you got the crud :censored: I have had it once that I know of, and my wife has had it two maybe three times now.
So much for being vaccinated.
 
You are in excellent hands here with @Michele and @Hawkeye, and you already know that the front accessory rail area ends up too thin without some help, so you are definitely in the game ahead of the curve. I used straight JB Weld epoxy (rigid, I know not ideal) with stainless-steel 'angle' strips cut and ground to fit to bolster the dust-cover area on a Compact model. No issues, and that one even runs 357 Sig -so if recoil/vibration was going to be a problem on one of these, it would be on that Compact. This one was done before P80 Ralph showed off his excellent work and set the bar on these, so for me it was definitely fresh territory at the time.

One thing already mentioned is the FRLB (Front Rail Locking Block) on a P80 is too narrow to fit a Gen 4 or Gen 5 Dual-rate RSA (Recoil Spring Assembly), but a safe and easy fix is to use an aftermarket slide adapter ring for a Gen 3-type RSA. Stainless steel RSAs can usually be taken apart to 'permanently' install one of these rings so you still have a fully captured RSA. Most of the adapters do NOT work with stock OEM Glock RSA's anyway. NDZ Performance is a great source for the adapters and the RSAs, and they even offer different recoil spring-rates in case you plan on using specialty ammo, ported or compensated barrels, or even suppressors. Different spring-rates are even useful if you Build with a severely lightened or 'window cut' slide...

Looking forward to seeing how yours comes out.
 

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