Oil changes! How often? Methods? Tools?

[Racer88]

This is a local place we've used for years. I am able to watch them and insure they fill it and check the dip stick.
The Kia's both have a belly pan that Kia did not see fit to put drain plug and filter access. It has to be removed to access plug and filter. Which means it has to be jacked up. I'm at the age where I don't want to fuck with it anymore.
The two vans can be changed without jacking them up and I can still do those, even though I really don't enjoy it anymore.

I was referring to the "quickie-lube" places. Stay FAR away from those. I'm not suggesting everyone should do it themselves. A privately-owned independent shop? Sure. Good to go. Just the "Jiffy" or "Quickie" lube joints... stay far, FAR away from them. You're ASKING for trouble. And to be ripped off.

 

[seniormoment]

I cant recall how many times I was dispatched to some industrial facility that was shut down or having a major production problem because maintenance on a critical piece of machinery wasn't done properly or at all. For example: A power plant that had an unplanned outage because of this and it's costing the power company $300,000 an hour when the generator isn't spinning.

The first thing that would happen when I show up is the angry plant manager, who is always an asshole, blames it on my company and calls me a c--k sucker. I let that go and tell him that I have been trying to quit - and get down to gathering some facts. An hour, maybe several hours later, the cause is known and repairs or other corrective measures are being done. 99% of the time it was poor maintenance practices. #1 cause... failed bearings on pumps because some bean counter with an MBA decided it was better to run the pump to failure vs. shut it down and do the recommended maintenance. #2 leaking or broken/inoperative valves. #3 somebody cuts or lifts the wrong wire.

This is why I buy cars new and take them to the dealer to get all the recommended maintenance done. I also sign up for the "free" oil changes knowing this is more expensive. I get that some of the recommended maintenance is fluffy and probably not necessary unless you beat the car, but the peace of mind is worth it to me. That doesn't guarantee a car wont break down, but it reduces the risk. There is nothing I hate more than an unreliable car. Except maybe an unreliable gun.

Or an unreliable woman

 

[no4mk1t]

I was referring to the "quickie-lube" places. Stay FAR away from those. I'm not suggesting everyone should do it themselves. A privately-owned independent shop? Sure. Good to go. Just the "Jiffy" or "Quickie" lube joints... stay far, FAR away from them. You're ASKING for trouble. And to be ripped off.

I agree the ones that have a lot of employee turnover and only employ teenagers who a week before working there didn't know what an oil filter wrench was for are to be avoided.

But yeah, I've heard the horror stories...
Forget to tighten the plug...
Forget to put oil in...
Put the wrong oil in...
Install wrong oil filter...

But it isn't just the "Jiffy" places that screw up.

Had a guy come into the parts store years ago.
His car was running rough, black smoke out of the tailpipe.
Said he just got it back from the dealership where they rebuilt the carburetor. (This was the 80's)
Lift the hood and the engine is idling rough. Take the wing nut off the air cleaner and try to lift the lid with the engine running. Takes way more effort than it should. Sucking sound when I finally break the seal. Black smoke stops and the engine is running smooth.
All because of a dirty air filter that the dealer missed.

 

[Racer88]

But it isn't just the "Jiffy" places that screw up.

Absolutely. I previously posted about the dealership (where I bought my car) fucking up putting the plug back... using the old crush washer instead of a new one. But I stand by my position that using the "Jiffy" places is playing with fire.

Yes... the odd dealership issue can happen. But at the "jiffy" places, it WILL happen. It's just a matter of time, and it's your turn.

I normally change my own oil, but since it was a brand-new car, I figured I would "pamper" it while under warranty and take it to the dealership that I liked because I liked my salesman.

This was my 3rd oil change with them... and my last.

So I'm back to doing it myself. Fortunately, changing the oil on the Outback is SUPER-EASY. The oil filter is on TOP of the engine.

And draining is easy and clean, especially with the Fumoto valve installed.

Filling is also clean and easy with a screw-in funnel:

 

[no4mk1t]

Had another guy that had one of our batteries in his car. The alternator failed and of course he failed to notice the red light on the dash. Car quits when the battery voltage dropped below minimum voltage to power the ignition system.
He has the car towed to the dealer. Dealer replaces the alternator, and rather than tell the guy that the battery will have to slow charge overnight, they tell him the battery is bad and charge him for a new one.

He brings the battery back and demands a refund. Sorry pal, that's not how battery warranties work, it's a pro-rated replacement warranty, not a money back guarantee.
When he's told I can't give him a refund, he's too pissed off to listen or realize he was sold a battery he didn't need by the dealer, it just needed charging. Storms off in a huff.

I put the battery on charge overnight and it tests fine in the morning.

Edit:
To give this a bit more context, this was not too long after maintenance free batteries had replaced lead acid batteries. A lot of older folks didn't know that you can't fast charge a maintenance free battery, that was a trade-off that the calcium hybrid plate construction had to allow it to be maintenance free.
Gas stations of old used to have sandwich board signs out by the pumps advertising fast charging in 30 minutes. If overdone, it would actually boil the electrolyte in the cells.

As mentioned before, Gramps was OCD before it had a name and the Depression had made him a world class penny pincher, and battery maintenance was one of his OCD bullet points. He did everything possible to get max life out of a battery.

This was back when you had to check the electrolyte level in each cell monthly and top it off as needed with water. Most peeps just used tap water. Gramps knew the minerals in tap water weren't good for battery longevity, he used distilled water. But he didn't buy it, he collected it for free.
A lot of folks don't realize that distilled water can be made two ways. One by boiling the water and condensing the vapor back into a liquid. The other is condensing water vapor (humidity) out of the air.

He would save the glass 1 gallon jugs vinegar came in back then and put a funnel in it and place it under the window unit A/C in the summer. Change the jug when full. Save the water for filling batteries.
He also knew to keep the top of the battery clean, so you didn't have the gunk that is present on most batteries create a parasitic drain.

It was not unusual for Gramps to get 10 years out of a battery back then and then grumble when he had to replace it.

I often wondered if you gave him a quarter if he couldn't squeeze a booger out of George Washington's nose.

 

[meistermash]

I change all my own.
Oil, I don't give a rat's ass which brand it is as long as it's Full Synthetic.
I buy it on sale ahead of time.
No it really isn't going to matter as long as you change it.
Buddy of mine is so buttholish he changes 10,000 mile oil at 3,000.
I do 5,000 or on the vehicles with oil life monitor when ever that pops.

Used to use Napa Gold filters.
Now there has been a change up in filters, if I am getting regular cheap ass quality in a Napa gold, there is no reason to continue to buy those.
Looking at you MahnHummle that now owns Wix who is now MH's bargain brand when they are not sourced from chyner.
So I think it is Baldwin I had to order online which I will use now.
I put Fumoto valves on everything.

For Tranny oil, I bought one of those topside suckers.
Sure does make that chore easier.
Now you might have a quart to spill instead of all of it when you pull the pan.

Racer, that filter area looks pretty clean but I would have to cover that with something.
Cooking bag or something I guess.
I may look into a subi as my fleet is all getting older and so am I but I'll need something reliable.
With a topside oil sucker you wouldn't have to get under a subi.

Back in the day I knew this old boy that retired from the Ford Garage.
The oil he used in his vehicles was what he drained out of empty bottles after doing customers oil.
This weight that weight or brand he didn't care.

I keep a couple of those sucker guns.
I will suck out rear end, power steering and brake fluid to keep that stuff fresh.

Coolant, I convert and flush those new antifreeze coolants out and use all makes and models.
That's just fucking retarded to need special coolant.
Pants on head.

 

[FrankenGlock]

I'll be doing an oil change either today or tomorrow. Mobile 1 full synthetic, 10k mile change intervals, Mann fleece filter, done via topsider.

 

[Racer88]

Racer, that filter area looks pretty clean but I would have to cover that with something.
Cooking bag or something I guess.

Why? I think it will do a lot better by screwing on a new oil filter, eh?

With a topside oil sucker you wouldn't have to get under a subi.

I've researched those.... and concluded it's NOT a good idea. Or put it this way... it's not the best way to do it for a number of reasons. And with some cars, they don't work well at all. And they're super-slow. Don't get all the oil. Lots of issues with them.

I put the car on ramps. Easy to get under and flip the Fumoto valve lever.

 

[GuitarmanNick]

At 70, I no longer do the oil changes myself, and admit to using one of those "jiffy" places.

Full synthetic oil every 5000 miles and do not touch my freakin' tires! I keep a compressor in the car and regularly check them all, even the spare.

Before pulling away, I look at the tires to insure the caps are in place and tight, look under the car for any leaks, and check the oil level before starting the car to leave. this also allows me to look at anything else they may have touched while under the hood.

My 03 Grand Marquis has about 103k on it and still runs like new. It is too old to spy on me and will likely be the last car I ever own. Parts are reasonably priced and available, and working on it is relatively easy compared to any new vehicle. I have had experience working on most of the systems in these cars since I have owned a few.

I can still do most jobs, just have issues crawling around under vehicles these days. I does not take much of a rub or bump to rip my skin open. The last time I emerged with a bloody back and had only looked at the rear suspension to diagnose an air leak. Ended up getting my son to do the rear airbag replacement for me. I am lucky to have him around.

 

[meistermash]

Thing about that is, an oil change place could save themselves quite a bit of money by just pumping conventional or blended oil instead of Full Synthetic.
Or by not replacing the oil filter.

Back in the day there was this fellow that ran a shop and my uncle used to take all his cars to him for maintenance.
He was just keeping the car and sending it back out without doing anything.
Was convicted of it later on.
He bragged and made great fun of it.