Help! Patriot80Builder's troubleshooting thread.

Patriotp80builder said:
Anyone know how I could colormatch my JBWELD?
Just picked up some clear JBweld to fix my rear pinholes on my FDE Pf940sc, as my trigger housing was wiggling around… and realized I need shavings/something to color the clear jbweld. I saw this toy gun at my local thrift store and picked it up in the hopes of being able to sand it, and use those shavings to color the epoxy… Is there a better alternative? Don’t have any of my original P80 shavings
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This might sound crazy to some but can you find some enamel paint that you could touch up the holes with after drilling? Just a thought and seeing as how it’s such a small area it might not be too noticeable. I have a gold cerekoted frame I touched up with model paint. While smoothing out the rail area some of the finish flaked off. Wasn’t an exact match but looked better than before. Like I said just a thought.
 
seniormoment said:
This might sound crazy to some but can you find some enamel paint that you could touch up the holes with after drilling? Just a thought and seeing as how it’s such a small area it might not be too noticeable. I have a gold cerekoted frame I touched up with model paint. While smoothing out the rail area some of the finish flaked off. Wasn’t an exact match but looked better than before. Like I said just a thought.
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You can get small bottles of Cerakote that don’t require heat curing.
 
Bobster said:
I don't know if I offered yet, but I'll send you a chunk of FDE rail snipping from one of my builds. Run it against a file to create the powder/mixer you seek...
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I’ve never tried this but would it be possible to melt a couple pieces of rail snipping and fill the hole?
 
seniormoment said:
I’ve never tried this but would it be possible to melt a couple pieces of rail snipping and fill the hole?
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You can but the plastic typically changes to a dirty/darker color when it melts. If it were me, I'd plastic weld it and Cerakote the frame but it probably wouldn't bother me unless it effected function.
 
FrankenGlock said:
You can but the plastic typically changes to a dirty/darker color when it melts. If it were me, I'd plastic weld it and Cerakote the frame but it probably wouldn't bother me unless it effected function.
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The darkness might be due to the polymer burning. To high temperatures to quickly. Like I said I’ve never done it before but anxious to experiment.
 
Bobster said:
I don't know if I offered yet, but I'll send you a chunk of FDE rail snipping from one of my builds. Run it against a file to create the powder/mixer you seek...
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Thanks a lot for the offer man, but I opted for another JBweld, which I didn't bother color matching
 
Bongo Lewi said:
I'd hazard a guess that a superglue mixed with fine plastic shavings or epoxy is going to bond better than melting plastic into the hole.
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Yeah, decided to just some old classic jbweld cold-weld as seen in my post above your comment.
 
Just another guess being hazarded here, but if the frame fits into the jig properly and not loosely or forced in, then the compact jig will probably, and I emphasize probably, work for the sub-compact rear holes. Set it in and see how well the beaver tail and grip sits as well as the top edge of the frame compared to the jig. But I would also warn that if they rear rails for a compact are not the same as a sub, then it will NOT work. I have not built a sub compact only a compact, full size, and single stack p80 and they all required different jigs.
Worst case you can buy another screw jig.
 
Curmudgeon said:
Just another guess being hazarded here, but if the frame fits into the jig properly and not loosely or forced in, then the compact jig will probably, and I emphasize probably, work for the sub-compact rear holes. Set it in and see how well the beaver tail and grip sits as well as the top edge of the frame compared to the jig. But I would also warn that if they rear rails for a compact are not the same as a sub, then it will NOT work. I have not built a sub compact only a compact, full size, and single stack p80 and they all required different jigs.
Worst case you can buy another screw jig.
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I was told that the tab material (that was removed) is necessary to align the frame in the original jig. On my first sub I removed the tab material first so when I drilled my holes they were off by quite a bit. P80 was very generous and provided me a fresh frame provided I send a pic of the old frame cut in half. I’m not 100% sure any other jig will line up correctly
 
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The hole looks ugly when filled. File it smooth before redrilling. Once redrilled, it will be a very thin line and you probably won't see it unless you get out a magnifying glass.

Actually, you will see it but nobody else will.
 
Curmudgeon said:
Just another guess being hazarded here, but if the frame fits into the jig properly and not loosely or forced in, then the compact jig will probably, and I emphasize probably, work for the sub-compact rear holes. Set it in and see how well the beaver tail and grip sits as well as the top edge of the frame compared to the jig. But I would also warn that if they rear rails for a compact are not the same as a sub, then it will NOT work. I have not built a sub compact only a compact, full size, and single stack p80 and they all required different jigs.
Worst case you can buy another screw jig.
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The rear rails are the exact same in all PF models, the G17 (PF940V2) , G19 (PF940CV1) and G26 (PF940SC) poly80's all have the same rear rails despite the frames being widely different in size.
I'll test fit my pf940sc frame in the pf940c jig tomorrow and drill if it fits, gonna tape it up in clear packing tape until the jig is nice and tight, and then redrill.
Actually this is my second time redrilling. The first time I didn't sand the excess jbweld, and the drill bit and my used pf940SC jig (worn out rear rail drill holes) made the drill bit slip and fucked the holes.
I have re jbwelded around 24h ago, and sanded down the jb weld to flush w the frame.
Hopefully all works out well! If not, looks like im gonna have to head down to my LGS and pick up a stripped glock frame to migrate my parts to.
 
seniormoment said:
I was told that the tab material (that was removed) is necessary to align the frame in the original jig. On my first sub I removed the tab material first so when I drilled my holes they were off by quite a bit. P80 was very generous and provided me a fresh frame provided I send a pic of the old frame cut in half. I’m not 100% sure any other jig will line up correctly
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How long ago was this? I heard that polymer80 fixed this a couple years back, and the jig holds the frame well without tabs now.
On my second build, my pf940c around 6 months ago, I finished milling my frame and drilled LAST, and my holes are beautiful, absolutely no hiccups... on the other hand, my more recent build (PF940sc) I drilled FIRST, and did everything correctly drill wise and STILL got messed up holes... the pinholes/jig must've been warped.
Oh well, the jb weld will fix it.
 

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