Help! PF9ss Issues

I’d appreciate any ideas from yall on how to fix this (or just leave it be)
I’m just confused how this happened. I’m just gonna return my dremel press and go back to the drill and vice. But, I’ve already drilled these two frames and can’t go back.
 
I would sand the top of the housing as recommends and see if you can make it work. If not, your other option would be to fill and redrill.
 
user10 said:
Oof. Closing the hole and redrilling is a last last resort 😬
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To me.... it's the first resort if the problem is the pin holes. IMO, the quality and functionality of a P80 build begins and ends with the accuracy of the pin holes.

I've never had to re-drill, but if I was having a problem fitting the parts to the frame, that's the first place I'd look.
 
Sacrifice the trigger housing if needed or get one made for the P80 as it may sit a bit lower and won't interfere with the slide. The last thing I would do is redrill the holes but that's me. As Racer said, drilling the holes right is very important to do correctly the first time but that opportunity was missed. I think you have been given the options to correct, choose one and let us know how it goes.
 
Someone correct me if I'm wrong here, but the rear rails will determine if the slide is too low on the trigger housing or too high away from it as well as relationship to the frame. The rear rails may be the entire problem here.
 
Curmudgeon said:
Someone correct me if I'm wrong here, but the rear rails will determine if the slide is too low on the trigger housing or too high away from it as well as relationship to the frame. The rear rails may be the entire problem here.
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Only if everything is in spec. Aftermarket housings can and do vary in dimensions as can the frames which was probably made for P80 components which are slightly different than Glock components and that could cause issues. This one looks like the left side hole is drilled wrong, so it is canting the rails and housing.
 
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Couple of useless points here. First, I'm not too impressed with the Dremel press. It's not a consistent pinpoint precision machine, at least mine isn't. Half of it is plastic. There's an obvious deviation from straight in the drill bit stroke as the lever is pulled. So, I've learned to find where the deviation is at minimum during the stroke and go that route. Also, there are several brass adjusting screws, that can easily be missed, that should be adjusted to gain the straightest stroke path as possible. There are at least three of them, I think.
Moreover, I've learned to sand each side of the jog slightly to help it lay perfectly flat as possible.
Next, was to stop using the Dremel station altogether, and use a decent drill press.

OP, if I were you, I'd sand the top of the housing, as you said you would. The height of the housing *may have something to do with it being a Gen 5 housing. A trick to gain more cruciform engagement was to switch from a Gen 3 housing to a Gen 4/5, so maybe housings after Gen 3 sit a little more proud, thus giving you some issues.

I would, however, like to hear more about why slides can get hung up and not return to battery more smoothly when the trigger is held to the rear. As far as I suspect, it has something to do with the verticle extension on the safety, but those two should operate smoothly together whether the trigger is pulled or not.

Edit: Google says when the trigger is held rearward, the verticle extension is at a higher point, thus increasing friction against the safety plunger.
 
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It'sMe said:
First, I'm not too impressed with the Dremel press. It's not a consistent pinpoint precision machine, at least mine isn't. Half of it is plastic. There's an obvious deviation from straight in the drill bit stroke as the lever is pulled. So, I've learned to find where the deviation is at minimum during the stroke and go that route. Also, there are several brass adjusting screws, that can easily be missed, that should be adjusted to gain the straightest stroke path as possible. There are at least three of them, I think.
Moreover, I've learned to sand each side of the jog slightly to help it lay perfectly flat as possible.
Next, was to stop using the Dremel station altogether, and use a decent drill press.
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The key is to set up the Workstation so that plunge stroke is as short as possible. I demonstrate how to do that here:

Video: Dremel Workstation Set-up and Pin Hole Drilling for P80 Frame

I've never had to plug and re-drill pin holes.
 
It'sMe said:
Next, was to stop using the Dremel station altogether, and use a decent drill press.
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Having a decent drill press(es), I never once thought about a Dremel press. It struck me as "looking" flimsy. ;) But like the Dremel, a drill press may initially need to be set up and adjusted for square. Just like a table saw or chop saw should be before first use. IMO, it would have to be WAY off square (ie: visibly) to affect the pin holes but deflection or looseness in the setup might do the same thing.

I was lucky enough to get my frames with jigs, and before I drilled, I sealed the ends of the jig closed tightly with HD shipping tape and did not overlap onto the "flat" surface. One hole at a time with a drop of mineral oil on the jig.
 
Bobster said:
Having a decent drill press(es), I never once thought about a Dremel press. It struck me as "looking" flimsy. ;) But like the Dremel, a drill press may initially need to be set up and adjusted for square. Just like a table saw or chop saw should be before first use. IMO, it would have to be WAY off square (ie: visibly) to affect the pin holes but deflection or looseness in the setup might do the same thing.

I was lucky enough to get my frames with jigs, and before I drilled, I sealed the ends of the jig closed tightly with HD shipping tape and did not overlap onto the "flat" surface. One hole at a time with a drop of mineral oil on the jig.
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I remember reading somewhere (MGB forum?) that a traditional drill press could crack the frame due to the high torque / low speed. Whereas by contrast, the Dremel in the workstation was high-speed and wouldn't crack the frames. Can anyone out there confirm or refute this?

As I said in my resource video (linked above), I think it helps A LOT to minimize the plunge travel AND use a foot pedal / switch to avoid any lateral movement of the bit.
 
I'd imagine if you tried to force the press/bit it could break the fame but finesse helps with most projects. Let me be clear, I have little of it and almost no patience and I did not have any issues.
 
Racer88 said:
I remember reading somewhere (MGB forum?) that a traditional drill press could crack the frame due to the high torque / low speed. Whereas by contrast, the Dremel in the workstation was high-speed and wouldn't crack the frames. Can anyone out there confirm or refute this?

As I said in my resource video (linked above), I think it helps A LOT to minimize the plunge travel AND use a foot pedal / switch to avoid any lateral movement of the bit.
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It’s true MGB did say that the high speed plunge of the Workstation was better due to the possibility of cracking a frame with a drill press. The first videos I found on P80’s incorporated a hand drill, which I wouldn’t advise either.
 
I want to make a point about tool "feel". I have honestly never used a Dremel press. I think I looked at one at a yard sale and determined I would never use it. At $10 I thought about flipping it for $40-$50 but now we're getting into small drill press money.

A "real" drill press, bench or floor model, has a "solidness" to it, even the smaller guys. The pulleys and motor rotating add a sort of "inertia" when drilling. And drilling something delicate (like a frame) only requires a little finesse. So I'll have the speed low and two fingers on the handle as that is all the force that I "feel" is needed. If that makes sense... :D

I have a Dremel, an off-brand "dremel", off-brand flexible extension and a bunch of bits of all flavors, extra collets, etc. that work fine when I happen to need that sort of thing.
 
Bobster said:
I want to make a point about tool "feel". I have honestly never used a Dremel press. I think I looked at one at a yard sale and determined I would never use it
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Chances are that none of the nuts were tightened.... and your yard sale example is probably abused, as el. Not really a good example, eh? Set up PROPERLY, it's a surprisingly solid piece.
 
After the 5th Dremel rotary tool shat the bed, I switched brands and never had another failure. The Dremel stuff just doesn't take hard core use. I use a couple different brands and both have been fantastic.
 
Racer88 said:
Chances are that none of the nuts were tightened.... and your yard sale example is probably abused, as el. Not really a good example, eh? Set up PROPERLY, it's a surprisingly solid piece.
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It didn't have the Dremel tool in it or included. I can see having one as it will do a lot but I already had tools that can do what it could do. (ie: drill presses)
 

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