PGB Award PF940C "Cobalt Celtic" Build Diary

USApat said:
So, how do you figure out how much is too much of a ramp. It would seem like you need decent experience on a lot of levels with a lot of different rounds and cartridge loads to make some assumptions about how much is too much. Getting the port work wrong on an engine just screws up the engine and not your face. 🧨 ️‍🔥

Thx for drawing that up!
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You are welcome, of course! Mmmm, yeah. Experience I guess. Myself, I go by Glock engineering as a MINIMUM no-go gauge. Less support than they offer is no bueno. Removing sharp edges is actually helpful of course, because you remove the stress-riser from the equation, thus reducing the likelihood of case-rupture and subsequent kaboom. And it feeds better.
Glocks are so bad though, that I have yet to re-work a chamber transition or feed-ramp on an aftermarket barrel that didn't still leave more material encasing the bottom rear of the cartridge than a same-caliber Glock barrel has. So I figure I am within the safety threshold established by Glock. And, I don't reload. I figure once I start down that rabbit-hole, the next step will be owning my own mineral and metal mines, a chemical-plant and a cartridge-manufacturing facility -that just won't fit in my garage...:ROFLMAO: So I buy supposed 'safe' factory ammo. At the end of the day, everything has an element of risk though, so I attempt to balance functionality with safety. Safety First means never getting out of bed, so for me (and Mike Rowe), it is more like Safety Third...
 
GSW10 said:
I do think the transition itself looks a bit sharp though. I would suggest a decent polishing (and you know what I mean by that -leave the carbide cutting-mills and 30-grit abrasive bits out of it!:p) of the chamber, and perhaps knock the edge down a little ("green" polishers should do well enough if you have them) -just enough to round it out and soften it,
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Yep. What I was thinking. Just soften the edges / transitions.

GSW10 said:
But a really good question I thought too late to ask on the earlier post is, did you try swapping-out the barrel for a known-good part? You have two right there...;) Or try this barrel in another pistol?
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Nope. Hadn't gotten that far in the "investigation." Actually haven't investigated at all, yet. All I've done so far is what you see in my range report. I fired the gun and then went home. I haven't really looked at the gun since... yet. But I will!
 
New trigger arrived a day early! Will install after I have dinner.
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Installed! Safety checks done. Trigger FEELS good, too. I really like it. Maybe found my new "perfect" trigger. I went with "chrome / chrome" (shoe / trigger) for the full silver look to the trigger.

Shiny objects are hard to capture photographically. But I think I got it!

P80 Cobalt Celtic Silver Trigger (1).jpg
P80 Cobalt Celtic Silver Trigger (2).jpg
P80 Cobalt Celtic Silver Trigger (3).jpg


Whattaya think? :cool:
 
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I've polished the barrel feed ramp. Lightly sanded (800 grit) the breach face and the lower corner of the extractor. I might go to the range tomorrow to test again.

@GSW10
 
Time to go to the range! (I need to order more ammo!)

Stand by for report!
 
Zero malfunctions! Nice.

I love it when a plan comes together! (insert George Peppard meme here)
 
FlyingFinn said:
Zero malfunctions! Nice.

I love it when a plan comes together! (insert George Peppard meme here)
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First range trip had a few failures to feed. But I sorted it out. Ironically, my very first build has never had a malfunction from the first shot to #1,952 (so far).
 
A bit of "cross-posting" photos. I changed the RSA to one from L2D Combat with a stainless guide rod. I polished the guide rod with special attention to the part that protrudes through the front of the slide to try to match the polished finish on the slide.
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A few more photos of the "guts" that I hadn't posted before. I took these after the gun has 280 rounds through it, so it's a bit dirty.
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Racer88 said:
I figure I'd get this thread started. I've decided to "get going" on this build. This was one of the awards provided by @Michele. The slide was etched by @Michele. Gorgeous!
View attachment 9546View attachment 9547View attachment 9548View attachment 9549View attachment 9550View attachment 9552

I think I've got all the parts I need... or at least most of them. It may take me a while to get it to the "final" version. But I'm ready to get going. This slide back-plate just arrived! Love it! Like a jewel! And the Celtic Knot matches @Michele's etching on the slide pretty closely.

I got it from Etched Ordnance. It arrived nestled in this cotton-lined jewel case!
View attachment 9551

I will post progress in this thread.
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Holy WOW! Whoever said Glocks (I know...) Are ugly pieces of Tupperware haven't seen what Michelle can do! I am curious if cerakote or someone has a durable coating that mimics polished metal?
 
Ragwing said:
Holy WOW! Whoever said Glocks (I know...) Are ugly pieces of Tupperware haven't seen what Michelle can do! I am curious if cerakote or someone has a durable coating that mimics polished metal?
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@Michele is amazing!

It's just straight polished metal. No coat or paint.
 
Maybe bright nickel with high gloss clear on top ?

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-I suggest just stripping or sand blast then polishing the slide.
-Buy a slide that’s not coated.
All ya need is a drill that locks on while running to put on a buffing wheel, buffing sticks, sand paper, flitz to hand polish (optional) Harbor freight has it all cheap, less than Cerakote job.

Can also DIY your own etching. Check out the customize section here on the forum.

Tutorial - Electro Etching #1 The Basics

Etching Basics In this article I'm covering the very basics of tools and supplies Electro etching is a procedure that employs the use of a solution (electrolyte) water, vinegar & salt or water/salt. DC electric connection: Positive side + (anode) & negative side - (cathode) attached to the...
www.patriotgunbuilders.com www.patriotgunbuilders.com

Thanks Racer 🙂
 
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