While in the Shower

James Moore

Well-known member
Exchange Privileges
Joined
Sep 10, 2022
Messages
391
Reaction score
555
Points
93
Location
Pueblo Colorado
The poor man's paint booth. Getting started on my next project.
 

Attachments

  • 20230626_063147.jpg
    20230626_063147.jpg
    2.1 MB · Views: 53
  • 20230626_063012.jpg
    20230626_063012.jpg
    1.9 MB · Views: 54
Hey use what ya have nothin wrong with that…wife might have a different view point however 😂. I know my hubby wouldn’t be too happy if I caught him using the shower for a paint booth.
Yea, I was going to joke with James that if he was a chick, he would be marriage material. But, he would take it the wrong way in this day and age.

**** I still have dirty dishes in the sink along with empty Mickey's Big Mouth cans, shot glasses, and McDonald's wrappers in my couch from my teens!
 
Hey use what ya have nothin wrong with that…wife might have a different view point however 😂. I know my hubby wouldn’t be too happy if I caught him using the shower for a paint booth.
I can guarantee you that after 36 years of marriage, that if I'd tried something like this a few years ago while my better half was still with us, it probably would have been the last day of our marriage. 😬
 
Yea, I was going to joke with James that if he was a chick, he would be marriage material. But, he would take it the wrong way in this day and age.
If this is somehow a reference to my comments about starting a purse collection in the sale or trade forum, I'm offended! If Indiana Jones can carry a purse, so can I.
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20230627_123310_Google.jpg
    Screenshot_20230627_123310_Google.jpg
    194.5 KB · Views: 25
If Indiana Jones can carry a purse, so can I.
I think I.J. would call it a "satchel"... ;) Sounds more masculine that way! :D

My daughter is fairly frugal so I was alarmed when she showed up with a new Kate Spade hand bag. Not the little ones (a "clutch") but a medium size. She claims she got a good deal on it and used it regularly so I guess it was worth it. Just the other day she had a new non-fashionable purse with zippers and pockets and maybe even room for the G26 I gave her to carry. The KS is open on the top and was not conducive to her "haphazard" ;) lifestyle and stuff would fall out if the bag tipped. The KS will probably be listed on debay so she'll get a good amount of her money back... :) I'm slightly embarrassed to know so much about purses... :D
 
I think I.J. would call it a "satchel"... ;) Sounds more masculine that way! :D

My daughter is fairly frugal so I was alarmed when she showed up with a new Kate Spade hand bag. Not the little ones (a "clutch") but a medium size. She claims she got a good deal on it and used it regularly so I guess it was worth it. Just the other day she had a new non-fashionable purse with zippers and pockets and maybe even room for the G26 I gave her to carry. The KS is open on the top and was not conducive to her "haphazard" ;) lifestyle and stuff would fall out if the bag tipped. The KS will probably be listed on debay so she'll get a good amount of her money back... :) I'm slightly embarrassed to know so much about purses... :D
The plus of being a dad.. I have a 12yr old son and 14yr old daughter... I know a lot more about stuff I shouldn't know about than I care to know about. 🤣
 
That looks far better than most fancy cerakote jobs.
Thanks. It's definitely better than my 1st couple of tries. Since then I've discovered the wonders of Self Etching primer. I'm under no illusions that it will last as long as Cerakote, but for a few bucks I can have a different color few months.
 
Thanks. It's definitely better than my 1st couple of tries. Since then I've discovered the wonders of Self Etching primer. I'm under no illusions that it will last as long as Cerakote, but for a few bucks I can have a different color few months.
I have a few guns that are cerakoted. They scratch and wear with abuse and use just like any other coating. I thought about rattle canning my Daniel Defense rifle because it's all black (boring).
 
Thanks. It's definitely better than my 1st couple of tries. Since then I've discovered the wonders of Self Etching primer. I'm under no illusions that it will last as long as Cerakote, but for a few bucks I can have a different color few months.
A Spray Max matte clear coat may help somewhat. It won't look shiny. If you want shiny, use gloss. Links further down.

I shot some old school 4 petal aluminum wheels in black with rattle can. Basically the spoke black and polished the aluminum rim. It held up good to heat and road use. Heavy heat actually because they were used in road racing for several years which is not friendly to wheels due to very hot brake temps and high ceramic dust. Brake temps were sustained over 12-24 hour periods as the races were endurance events. Brake temps are in the 1,200 degree plus range in the brake zones approximately 8-13 times per lap braking for each corner depending on the track. The temps are radically hot for a few seconds and cool down quick to high hundreds of degrees. Basically they can glow slightly at night if it's at the end of a long straight and the glow goes away a few seconds after exiting the turns.

Here's what I did:
1. Prepped the rim with hand sanding
2. Primed with etching primer
3. Applied several smooth coats of flat black base coat
4. Color sanded the black base coat lightly for clear coat
5. Applied several coats of clear allowing each to flash off.
6. Set it out in the very hot sun to dry and flow out smooth.

If you have an electric smoker grill that is large enough you can bake your wheels at a couple of hundred degrees for flow.

You must use compatible paints. Enamels with enamel primers or Lacquers with lacquer primers. Don't mix paint types or your asking for heartache and work.

If you have a shop (it looks like you don't due to the shower) you can use a cheap harbor freight regular gun, or a detail gun for all the steps. For primer out of a full-size gun, you will want to ream the tip to a 1.8 - 2mm orifice size if you are shooting it without reducers and just a catalyst. This is for a high build primer. Something that is not needed for gun parts, so you would reduce it down and could probably spray the primer okay with a standard gun which typically has a tip size around 1.4mm. I don't know if this will work because I have dedicated primer guns with larger tips and use them solely for thicker primers and use the other guns for topcoats.

Here is a cheap professional automotive clear coat that will lay down and shoot over enamel and acrylic urethane (automotive paints). So, this means you can top coat Rust Oleum with this stuff. Check the TDS sheet for how to reduce it because you can mix it up three ways from thick to thinner depending on the topcoat scenario.

1. High Build Primer/Filler
2. Primer Surfacer
3. Sealer.

It is worth using 2K automotive clears with rattle can topcoats. They are substantially more durable and heat resistant for battle scars. And you can color sand out scratches to the clear and re-coat if necessary, or just color sand and buff out the scratch if it's not too deep into the base coat.

Amazon product ASIN B00397NQ0C
View: https://www.amazon.com/U-Pol-2882-KIT-STD-URETHANE-CLEARCOAT-UNIVERSAL/dp/B00397NQ0C/
Here is a conventional size spray gun with a 1.4mm tip:

Here is a small detail gun with a 0.8 mm tip. I have never shot Cerakote yet, but I understand that this is the required tip size needed for the viscosity of Cerakote. If you shoot automotive topcoats with this like I've described above, you will need to mess with the gun settings with fan, paint flow and air pressure. Search Youtube for tutorials on how to do this and analyze the spray patterns before you topcoat your guns.

This small gun will allow you to do fine detail work for battleworn or camouflage free-hand style painting.


And here is a rattle can version of 2K clear coat. Once activated with the catalyst the pot life of the can is 24-48 hours. Michele has brought up this clear coat in other threads. This clear can also be used to fix spot areas of clear coat that are failing on a car, but it can be a little difficult to blend in with the old paint and clear coat unless you know what you're doing. Don't just sand and shoot. You need to blend an feather it in which requires appropriate sanding grits and prep to be used for each blend panel. But, it can work good for small gun parts.

Available online in a lot of automotive paint repair suppliers or Amazon:

 
Last edited:
I will add one more thing to my post above. If you use a spray gun to topcoat things with Rust-Oleum you can add a hardener to the paint which will make it substantially more resistant to scratches. Add the hardener to the base coat paint. You thin Rust-Oleum base coat paints with either mineral spirits or Acetone. I prefer mineral spirits because Acetone tends to atomize the paint too quickly when it hits air and this can present overspray dust or orange peel in the paint. The downside to mineral spirits is the drying time for the paint is longer and thus longer before you can clear coat or color sand the base coat.

I used this type of hardener (not this brand) over a decade ago shooting a tool box that bangs around in a truck and it has held up well. It still has some scars, but nothing like it would if I had not shot it with hardener.


EDIT: I can't tell you exactly how much to thin your paint with mineral spirits exactly. It's something you visually look at with the drip of the paint after you mix it iup. I would start around 15-20% thinning and see how that works. They also make a viscosity measuring tool that is quite useful for painting in general.

Zahn Cup #2 size

Amazon product ASIN B09FXLZ4QT
View: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09FXLZ4QT/?coliid=I23RI0UNSXVEQV&colid=2UZTUUBMWER1G&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it
 
Last edited:
A Spray Max matte clear coat may help somewhat. It won't look shiny. If you want shiny, use gloss. Links further down.
I used a dead flat clear coat.

I didn't want anything shiny. I can't remember what I'd used in the past, it was supposed to be a flat coating, but ended reflecting too much. This seems to be much better. I didn't do any sanding. Just cleaned everything up with brake cleaner and let it dry for awhile before I started spraying.

I've thought about getting a spray gun. I already have a compressor, so it wouldn't be much of an investment and if/when I do I'll definitely hit you up for some advice. I appreciate the links, but Right now though I'm just going to stick with rattle cans.
 
Thanks I'll try a can of that stuff on something sometime.
I've thought about getting a spray gun. I already have a compressor, so it wouldn't be much of an investment and if/when I do I'll definitely hit you up for some advice. I appreciate the links, but Right now though I'm just going to stick with rattle cans.
Yes, I was just posting this up for info for the masses, not necessarily for your project here.

I have some painting projects coming up myself. Had planned on doing it in the Spring while it was cool, but will now shift to the fall. I've been doing bodywork late at night here while it's cooler in preparation for spraying in a few months.

fender.jpg


Have multiple car projects to spray along with 12 large shop shelves and equipment to spray gray. I found this a moment ago too. It will help with some smaller fenders and air dams I need to spray. Cheap and pops up quick and has some great reviews. I will probably try it out.

$51.00

 
Last edited:
Back
Top