How hard IS it to build a 1911 from an 80% kit?

OldKarl said:
Hello,

I'm looking at a few kits from US Patriot Armory and over on 1911Forum they make it sound like you need a full machine shop and even then you probably cannot do it.

Thanks
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Not true. It's more work than a P80 by far, but not bad.... actually much more rewarding. Check out stealtharms.net.
 
With an aluminum frame, it isn't hard. The jigs that work like a woodworking plane to cut the slide rails work because the aluminum cuts easily in thin slices.

With a steel frame, well, think milling machine. That is how I made mine, on a mill using keyway cutters, custom mill bit, and common end mill bits.

It also helps to have a working 1911 that you can measure and compare to as you sneek up on the final dimensions. (it is kinda surprising to amount of hand fitting all the parts of a 1911 take.)

Some photos of my build... setting up the frame in the mill, checking parts interchange with the reference pistol (a Rock Island M1911) and the finished frame on a Mech-Tech CCU. As you can see from the date stamps in the photos, the entire process took a month to complete.
 

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clm2112 said:
With an aluminum frame, it isn't hard. The jigs that work like a woodworking plane to cut the slide rails work because the aluminum cuts easily in thin slices.
Click to expand...
Thanks, I'm doing aluminum.
clm2112 said:
Some photos of my build... setting up the frame in the mill, checking parts interchange with the reference pistol (a Rock Island M1911) and the finished frame on a Mech-Tech CCU. As you can see from the date stamps in the photos, the entire process took a month to complete.
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Looks very nice!
 
OldKarl said:
Thanks. I'm buying the lowers from them :)
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They are very well made. May I also suggest that you exclusively use Wilson Combat Bulletproof parts for the best possible outcome...except for the grip safety. I would recommend using the grip safety from Stealtharms. It fits perfectly with the frame. The Wilson grip safety has a larger radius and requires a bit of work to make it fit.

The grip safety from Stealtharms is aluminum and only comes in black. If you want silver, you can bead blast the black coating off of it.

When you finish your frame, there will be scuff marks. Lightly sand them with fine 320 grit or finer sandpaper, then glass bead blast the entire frame. Use glass bead from Harbor Freight. It comes in a 5 lb. blue plastic bottle. It's the only glass bead I've found that won't damage your frame and creates a beautiful appearance. No finish is required on the frame...it's beautiful and durable without a coating-type finish.....and as a bonus, if you somehow scratch the frame in the future, you can lightly sand it off and glass bead blast it again.

If I can help in any way, just ask. I will try to be helpful.
 
Thanks @CECannonJr I plan to have the frames ceracoated after I finish them.
I'm buying the build kits from US Patriot Armory who *used* to resell stealth arms until they ran out of stock, so I'm hoping everything fits :)

I might reach out to you for some advice in the future :)
 

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I highly recommend them. Their flatwire recoil guide rod kit is top notch. Ive put them in all my officer models, several 4" and 5" models.
 
Stephen G said:

1911 Parts | 1911 Accessories & Upgrades | Made in USA - EGW

Upgrade your pistol with premium, American-made 1911 parts and accessories from EGW. From precision ignition kits to magwells, find the best 1911 components here.
www.egwguns.com www.egwguns.com

I highly recommend them. Their flatwire recoil guide rod kit is top notch. Ive put them in all my officer models, several 4" and 5" models.
Click to expand...
Thanks! I will keep an eye on them when I start upgrading :)
 
NavyVette said:
Hello,

I'm looking at a few kits from US Patriot Armory and over on 1911Forum they make it sound like you need a full machine shop and even then you probably cannot do it.

Thanks
Click to expand...
I have personally done 2 from them. I had absolutely no issues with the parts. Everything individually packaged and labeled. They fit well. If you don't already have a 10-8 1911 armorer block, get it! It has a spot to place, and file your Thumb safety, to the correct angle. I used the Juggernaught Tactical jig to do the Rails. It works very well. I put a spring between the depth adjustment screw and the jig on the 2nd build. It helps a lot on making sure that screw doesn't bounce around, causing you to lose your mark.

have fun. 2 of my favorite builds.
 
Viking2721 said:
I have personally done 2 from them. I had absolutely no issues with the parts. Everything individually packaged and labeled. They fit well. If you don't already have a 10-8 1911 armorer block, get it! It has a spot to place, and file your Thumb safety, to the correct angle. I used the Juggernaught Tactical jig to do the Rails. It works very well. I put a spring between the depth adjustment screw and the jig on the 2nd build. It helps a lot on making sure that screw doesn't bounce around, causing you to lose your mark.

have fun. 2 of my favorite builds.
Click to expand...
What kind of spring?
I will look for the 1911 armorer block :) Thanks!
 
NavyVette said:
What kind of spring?
I will look for the 1911 armorer block :) Thanks!
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Just a small spring from an assortment from Harbor freight. Just something to keep tension on the depth adjustment screw, so You dont lose your place. Only applies if you are using the Juggernaught Tacticle rail cutter
 
Viking2721 said:
Just a small spring from an assortment from Harbor freight. Just something to keep tension on the depth adjustment screw, so You dont lose your place. Only applies if you are using the Juggernaught Tacticle rail cutter
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Oh, thanks. - I was drinking (Dr pepper) when I read your post the first time - I'm using the phantom jig for my ghosts.
 
Lol....actually that is the jig I use. I was looking at the AR-15 Forum and had the jig for that build stuck in my head. Phantom jig is what I used.
 
Viking2721 said:
If you don't already have a 10-8 1911 armorer block, get it! It has a spot to place, and file your Thumb safety, to the correct angle.
Click to expand...
So, I'm finally looking for the 10-8 1911 armorer block - it's a pricy thing! You say it has "a spot to place, and file your Thumb safety" - I've seen a few people on other forums talking about that as well - is filing the thumb safety just a known part of building a 1911?

Or is it a "you might need to do this" step?

Thanks!
 
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