Tip! Getting the Most From a Battery

I think what they are talking about is to "register" (code) the battery in the PCM which requires the special tools and extra time which costs extra money...
PCM=??
 
So what's the bullshit about "registering" the battery?
LINK I've never paid much attention to it because I buy off-the-shelf, non-OEM batteries.

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LINK I've never paid much attention to it because I buy off-the-shelf, non-OEM batteries.

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Gee, I thought that was what the voltage regulator was for. Silly me.
I'll just keep doing like I've been doing for the last 35 years and still get 7-8 years out of a battery. :rolleyes:
 
So what's the bullshit about "registering" the battery?
While I've not been in the industry for quite awhile now (I left around 2000), and not at this level of modern tech, it seems there is some sort of "registration" that is done into the PCM through a programmer tool or laptop with the program to do so. It's not "hokum", but I cannot tell you how much it makes a difference or not. It's a given that the vehicle will indeed function with or without the input. But yes, it's real.
 
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While I've not been in the industry for quite awhile now (I left around 2000), and not at this level of modern tech, it seems there is some sort of "registration" that is done into the PCM through a programmer tool or laptop with the program to do so. It's not "hokum", but I cannot tell you how much it makes a difference or not. It's a given that the vehicle will indeed function with or without the input. But yes, it's real.
Is it a BMW thing? The quoted text seems to indicate that. Or is it other marques? All cars? I've never ever heard of such a thing.

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ETA: I've been researching my own '24 Subaru. No such procedure / "registration" is mentioned anywhere.
 
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I don't think every marque uses it, and I'm assuming it may be the upscale brands. but I cannot be sure. like I said, its been 24 years since I left that industry. Our 2003 530i I THINK had that in the programming, but I'd never been faced with swapping-out the battery while we had it. I did a number of maintenance projects on it- plugs, etc (and others I farmed-out), but that wasn't one of them. It does sound familiar, and perhaps my Foxwell scanner for BMW/MINI has that capability, But I never looked.
 
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So I saw this ad for a LiFePO mower battery. Claims 5 year warranty. $150.
Now that battery chemistry is the current tech for electric cars and other uses, and it is very good indeed. But I just bought a conventional lead acid mower battery from Wal-Mart for $30. Got 6 years out of the one that came in the mower. Even if this one and the next 4 only lasts 4 years, that LiFePO battery would have to make it 20 years to be worth it.
I'd like to have one, but the price is going to have to make the math work out.

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In the course of doing my periodic charging, I took note of the age of the two oldest batteries at the house.

The first one is in a G20 Chevrolet Van. Sits more than driven, so it needs the bi-weekly charging.
This battery was installed in Feb 2017. 9 years and still kicking. Not saying it won't crap out tomorrow, but right now it's not showing any signs of slow cranking that typically signals the end.


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The second is in the wife's #2 Kia.
The oil change place informed me it was showing that it's starting to get weak on the load test. Recommended replacing it. I'll keep doing the bi-weekly charge thing and see how long it lasts.
Installed in Jan 2019. 7 years.


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Not saying it won't crap out tomorrow, but right now it's not showing any signs of slow cranking that typically signals the end.
I hope you didn't say that in earshot of the battery because it will crap out just to spite you... :D

Here in FL, anything over 3 years for a standard lead-acid is borrowed time. Up north we'd get at least 5 out of them.
My cousin is lamenting his Optima blew out after 10 years. :rolleyes: It didn't fit his Caravan so he stretched the cables and in doing so, I think he tweaked the post because now it is leaking out. :eek: :rolleyes: Lead is not steel--it does not take kindly to abuse or extreme torque.
 
Did a little searching. Here's what I found.

There are only three battery manufacturers now in the US that make the automotive batteries for everyone.
Listed best to worst.

Keep in mind that all brands by the same maker are not created equal.
East Penn made Everstart is not the same as a Deka or NAPA. East Penn makes the battery to Walmart specs to hit the desired price point. But an East Penn Everstart is going to be better than a Clarios Everstart. Batteries are heavy and expensive to ship. This may be why some Walmart/NAPA/O'Reilly's get one brand over the other if distance offsets cost. Walmart, NAPA, and O’Reilly sometimes switch suppliers depending on distribution center.

East Penn Manufacturing

They make the following brands:
Deka (their own brand)
NAPA Legend Premium
NAPA AGM
O'Reilly Super Start Premium AGM
Everstart (Walmart) depending on region
Duracell Automotive (Sam's Club)
CarQuest Premium
Advance Auto (some regions)


Clarios (formerly Johnson Controls) This is the largest battery maker.

They make the following brands:
Everstart (Walmart) most models
Interstate
Diehard
Motorcraft (Ford OEM)
AC Delco (GM OEM)
Duralast
Kirkland
Champion


Exide

They make the following brands:
Exide (their own brand)
Autozone
Tractor Supply
Some rural market private labels

Bottom line.

If you want the best battery, buy one that is made by East Penn.

Look for plant codes starting with:
These will be stamped into the battery case.

  • D, DE, DP, EP
Or simply buy:

  • DEKA
  • NAPA Legend Premium
  • Duracell AGM (Sam’s Club)
These are all East Penn.

This is not to say that the Clarios batteries are bad. The 7 y.o. Everstart in the Kia is a Johnson Controls battery.
 
Chargers.
There are chargers available that have a high frequency desulfinator in them.
this breaks up the accumulate that forms between the plates.
So they top off the battery and then zap any particles.
 
I stepped up, paid the premium and got a DieHard (Sears) AGM about 8? years ago. At $150 after coupon, it was $40-$50 more than the "regular" DH. I think it had a 5yr warranty on it, pro-rated after 3yrs. At about 3-1/4yrs it started "acting up" a little, wouldn't take a full charge. To charge I was using a Schmacher charger with AGM (and gel) setting. The Shoomy also has a "desulfate" function that I have yet to be successful.

I was in the neighborhood and stopped by the Sears Auto Center outside the mall and it was now a carpet store. :eek: :rolleyes: Called to find the nearest Auto Center that was still open and it was probably an hour away including lots of traffic. Nursed the battery for another year or so and got an Exide from Home Depot for about $130. Seems to be doing OK after 2-3yrs...
 
BMW uses Exide batteries. It is quite common for them to last 10 years or even more... like this one from mid 2015 I pulled out of a customer's car today.

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I don't know if it is just a high quality battery or the cushy life riding around in the trunk or intelligent charging control that makes them last so long but finding this old of a battery in a BMW is not unusual.

This customer came in for a check engine light and did not have any complaints about starting the car. I noticed a slow crank when I brought it in and found a couple of undervoltage faults in addition to the thermostat fault that turned on the light.
 
BMW uses Exide batteries. It is quite common for them to last 10 years or even more... like this one from mid 2015 I pulled out of a customer's car today.

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I don't know if it is just a high quality battery or the cushy life riding around in the trunk or intelligent charging control that makes them last so long but finding this old of a battery in a BMW is not unusual.

This customer came in for a check engine light and did not have any complaints about starting the car. I noticed a slow crank when I brought it in and found a couple of undervoltage faults in addition to the thermostat fault that turned on the light.
They never use turn signals so the whole system is less stressed.
 
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