76% Guidance

ItsWAWGaming said:
Could they still be off with the regular one, only on the rear? thats what I meant
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I think so, I haven’t used a regular jig in a long time though. Someone else here will be better suited than I to answer this question.
 
Benchies Go Boom said:
I think so, I haven’t used a regular jig in a long time though. Someone else here will be better suited than I to answer this question.
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I've reached a point where a pair of 80% arms split rear rails is fitting perfectly, the only thing I'm now trying to perfect is fitting the normal p80 rail module in (I like the one piece)
 
Benchies Go Boom said:
I think so, I haven’t used a regular jig in a long time though. Someone else here will be better suited than I to answer this question.
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I'm trying to get the pieces of grid sanded flush with the magwall, any good ways to go about this besides mini files?
 
ItsWAWGaming said:
I'm trying to get the pieces of grid sanded flush with the magwall, any good ways to go about this besides mini files?
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I wonder if the micro-sander would work there?

Tutorial - Using a Micro-Sander for P80 Frame and Channel Finishing

This is a really nifty tool I discovered. I got it from MicroMark. https://www.micromark.com/MicroLux-Micro-Sander I made a video of how it can be used for frame and channel finishing: Edit to add: Woohoooo! We can now embed Rumble videos!
www.patriotgunbuilders.com www.patriotgunbuilders.com
 
Racer88 said:
I wonder if the micro-sander would work there?

Tutorial - Using a Micro-Sander for P80 Frame and Channel Finishing

This is a really nifty tool I discovered. I got it from MicroMark. https://www.micromark.com/MicroLux-Micro-Sander I made a video of how it can be used for frame and channel finishing: Edit to add: Woohoooo! We can now embed Rumble videos!
www.patriotgunbuilders.com www.patriotgunbuilders.com
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I think it was Michelle who suggested using a cordless toothbrush to make your own sander. Get some stick on sanding discs and cut your own. I tried it and it seemed to work reasonably well, and cheaper. I happened to already have a more “professional” toothbrush, just bought extra brushes. A little redneck ingenuity. Just my two cents.
 
seniormoment said:
I think it was Michelle who suggested using a cordless toothbrush to make your own sander. Get some stick on sanding discs and cut your own. I tried it and it seemed to work reasonably well, and cheaper. I happened to already have a more “professional” toothbrush, just bought extra brushes. A little redneck ingenuity. Just my two cents.
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Yeah cause there's still material blocking the main p80 rail module from fitting because it has the bottom portion, its on the magwall though which is a tricky spot where you cant apply alot of pressure.
 
seniormoment said:
I think it was Michelle who suggested using a cordless toothbrush to make your own sander. Get some stick on sanding discs and cut your own. I tried it and it seemed to work reasonably well, and cheaper. I happened to already have a more “professional” toothbrush, just bought extra brushes. A little redneck ingenuity. Just my two cents.
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If it works, it works! :cool:
 
@Michele You said you heated the rear rail to get it to seat all the way in?
Mine almost goes all the way in but stops the last stretch in, and I've sanded down everything too, is there a way to do this without the rail getting stuck in there or fusing to the frame?
Also will a small handheld torch jet lighter work for heating it up?

Update: I got the rail in, seats all the way, front metal on left side is flush with frame as it should be.
Onto the front locking block area!
 
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ItsWAWGaming said:
@Michele You said you heated the rear rail to get it to seat all the way in?
Mine almost goes all the way in but stops the last stretch in, and I've sanded down everything too, is there a way to do this without the rail getting stuck in there or fusing to the frame?
Also will a small handheld torch jet lighter work for heating it up?

Update: I got the rail in, seats all the way, front metal on left side is flush with frame as it should be.
Onto the front locking block area!
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To answer your query, yep a lighter will work. It doesn’t need to be smoking hot, just enough to push the rail down in there and melt the plastic . If there’s to much frame still there, and it might squish around the rail, push it in a little at a time, cut out the extra, reheat and redo till it’s seated, It’ll come out. Good luck with the rest, it’s much easier 👊
 
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Michele said:
To answer your query, yep a lighter will work. It doesn’t need to be smoking hot, just enough to push the rail down in there and melt the plastic . If there’s to much frame still there, and it might squish around the rail, push it in a little at a time, cut out the extra, reheat and redo till it’s seated, It’ll come out. Good luck with the rest, it’s much easier 👊
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Yeah I'm on the front locking block leg obstruction now, which is proving tricky to access without that 7144 bit, which I'm likely going to order. Any other good methods for snipping that out?

Rails are looking perfect though.

1738719395274.png
 
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ItsWAWGaming said:
Yeah I'm on the front locking block leg obstruction now, which is proving tricky to access without that 7144 bit, which I'm likely going to order. Any other good methods for snipping that out?

Rails are looking perfect though.

View attachment 28783
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I don’t recommend snipping, use that bit it fits perfectly in the space. As for the other area. Heat up a chisel exato blade with lighter and melt it out. It’ll be smooth as butter. Better than snipping then having to smooth out the bump left after snipping.

IMG_1376.jpeg


IMG_1374.jpeg


IMG_1375.jpeg
 
Michele said:
I don’t recommend snipping, use that bit it fits perfectly in the space. As for the other area. Heat up a chisel exato blade with lighter and melt it out. It’ll be smooth as butter. Better than snipping then having to smooth out the bump left after snipping.

View attachment 28786

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View attachment 28787
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Going to order that 7144 bit to clear out the front leg area, then all that's left is drilling and clearing the RSA barrier!
I notice that bit won't damage the walls either.
Quick question btw, if I bought a PF45 series rail kit (which is in stock rn on mas) would the front rail fit in the 940v2? I've heard that it will and that they both use the same exact front rail, figured I'd check here before I went ahead and ordered.
 
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ItsWAWGaming said:
Going to order that 7144 bit to clear out the front leg area, then all that's left is drilling and clearing the RSA barrier!
Quick question btw, if I bought a PF45 series rail kit (which is in stock rn on mas) would the front rail fit in the 940v2? I've heard that it will and that they both use the same exact front rail, figured I'd check here before I went ahead and ordered.
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Apparently the same, according to Rook Tactical.

1738790748065.png
 
Michele said:
I don’t recommend snipping, use that bit it fits perfectly in the space. As for the other area. Heat up a chisel exato blade with lighter and melt it out. It’ll be smooth as butter. Better than snipping then having to smooth out the bump left after snipping.

View attachment 28786

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View attachment 28787
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I really wish though we could still find those Rayley cutters, they were able to snip the front locking block right out..
Edit: Also for drilling the holes, are brad point bits necessary or if your careful will the p80 bits still work fine?
 
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ItsWAWGaming said:
I really wish though we could still find those Rayley cutters, they were able to snip the front locking block right out..
Edit: Also for drilling the holes, are brad point bits necessary or if your careful will the p80 bits still work fine?
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Don’t remember what size those bits are. You should be able to use them -with caution. If the holes happen to be too big that’s fixable. Maybe test hole size on something scrap around the house to make sure the pins go in tight. Did u watch MGB videos on drilling pin holes, if not check em out.
Here’s MGBs bit recommendations. You don’t need Brad points can use any correct size standard bits.
IMG_1377.jpeg


Model 170 cutter looks similar
 
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Michele said:
Don’t remember what size those bits are. You should be able to use them -with caution. If the holes happen to be too big that’s fixable. Maybe test hole size on something scrap around the house to make sure the pins go in tight. Did u watch MGB videos on drilling pin holes, if not check em out.
Here’s MGBs bit recommendations. You don’t need Brad points can use any correct size standard bits.
View attachment 28809

Model 170 cutter looks similar
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1738851231200.png

Found a slightly different bradpoint dremel set that just comes with 3mm and 4mm flat bits for the holes, this should work ok I imagine
 
ItsWAWGaming said:
View attachment 28840
Found a slightly different bradpoint dremel set that just comes with 3mm and 4mm flat bits for the holes, this should work ok I imagine
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If I remember MGB and possibly others warned against using these bits because they were (supposedly) easily bent. Didn’t try it myself so I can’t confirm. I used slightly small diameter bits than 3 or 4mm then reamed out the holes using a pin vice with the provided bits. I reamed the holes in the jig, with supplied bits, prior to drilling in the frame. This seamed to work for me.
 
seniormoment said:
If I remember MGB and possibly others warned against using these bits because they were (supposedly) easily bent. Didn’t try it myself so I can’t confirm. I used slightly small diameter bits than 3 or 4mm then reamed out the holes using a pin vice with the provided bits. I reamed the holes in the jig, with supplied bits, prior to drilling in the frame. This seamed to work for me.
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So only use the one thats slightly too small for the trigger and locking block holes?
I imagine you can use the p80 bits too, as long as you get it dead on
 
Michele said:
Don’t remember what size those bits are. You should be able to use them -with caution. If the holes happen to be too big that’s fixable. Maybe test hole size on something scrap around the house to make sure the pins go in tight. Did u watch MGB videos on drilling pin holes, if not check em out.
Here’s MGBs bit recommendations. You don’t need Brad points can use any correct size standard bits.
View attachment 28809

Model 170 cutter looks similar
Click to expand...

Is this basically the same as the MGB rayley ones? if so I'll go ahead and grab some so I have them for future builds.
 

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