76% Guidance

ItsWAWGaming said:
So only use the one thats slightly too small for the trigger and locking block holes?
I imagine you can use the p80 bits too, as long as you get it dead on
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Of course you can use the bits that came with the frame but you need to be dead on. The first couple of frames I worked on I used the supplied bits and I was a hair, or two, off and I had a fair amount of trouble during assembly. That’s my experience, yours might be different. Also, I found out that aftermarket pins aren't always uniform. Some are tighter than others, which is ok, and the holes can gradually loosen up. I’ve picked up a lot of tips on here
 
seniormoment said:
Of course you can use the bits that came with the frame but you need to be dead on. The first couple of frames I worked on I used the supplied bits and I was a hair, or two, off and I had a fair amount of trouble during assembly. That’s my experience, yours might be different. Also, I found out that aftermarket pins aren't always uniform. Some are tighter than others, which is ok, and the holes can gradually loosen up. I’ve picked up a lot of tips on here
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In that case I'll give the regular bits a try and see how it comes out, I imagine the benefit of the bradpoint bits is that they are more forgiving.
 
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Racer88 said:
FWIW, I created this video resource on pin hole drilling. MGB also made a great video. Both are linked here:
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Pinholes came out nicely on the first three, the one pictured in the first photo has a little space in certain places for wiggle but once its secured into the frame its a tight fit with pressure, so I don't imagine that will be enough to cause walking issues.
 
 
Michele said:
Seems so they have model 170 stamped on them
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Also the one pinhole that gets a little bit big on the inner part, that shouldn't be an issue I'd imagine as long as when its fully seated the thing is tightly secured and has surface to grab onto still I imagine

Edit:
Cleared the front locking block area, doesn't look the absolute prettiest but it's decent given how difficult of a space that is to access while being factory clean.
That trigger pin hole is likely no cause for concern as once the pin is fully seated its pressed against the wall of the pinhole still so it still is a tight fit once in and requires a good push to get it out, so walking likely won't be a problem.
 
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When you drill the front hole, you should feel the dremel pass through atleast two walls correct?
Pass through the first two walls on each side at a time I imagine.
 
Drill half way through, flip, drill other side.

Bits wander and go off track. Especially if a void is there. No guarantee it will exit the other side where you think it should.

Is that what you are asking?
 
bkbrno said:
Drill half way through, flip, drill other side.

Bits wander and go off track. Especially if a void is there. No guarantee it will exit the other side where you think it should.

Is that what you are asking?
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When you drill the front hole, there's the first wall on each side (the outer) then the inner wall right after that in between that pocket you have to clear out that you would pass through.
 
Ah , yes. There are 2 walls. Use light pressure so the bit doesn’t drift. Best if you use the Dremel drill press set up or at worse a bubble level. If the hole isn’t straight the pin won’t fit. If ya mess it up…that’s fixable
 
bkbrno said:
Drill half way through, flip, drill other side.

Bits wander and go off track. Especially if a void is there. No guarantee it will exit the other side where you think it should.

Is that what you are asking?
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He’s drilling the front pin hole that’s normally already done on a standard 80% p80. On the bridge frame no holes are pre drilled.
 
ItsWAWGaming said:
When you drill the front hole, there's the first wall on each side (the outer) then the inner wall right after that in between that pocket you have to clear out that you would pass through.
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Michele said:
Ah , yes. There are 2 walls.
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Yeah... there are actually 3 layers: The two outer layers and the center thicker section. The photos below are an unfinished 80% frame.

Front-pin-hole.jpg


So that presents a situation that is different than the other pin holes that we usually drill on an 80% frame.

With an 80% frame, on the other pin holes, we drill through a single layer on each side. But this situation with a 76% frame presents an additional challenge on this front pin hole. So, how do we approach it?

My first thought is to go through one side (#1) AND through the middle (#3) in one clean pass (hopefully). Then flip the frame and do the other outside layer (#2).

The other thought is to go through one side (#1) and part-way through the middle (#3). Then flip the frame and "meet in the middle" by going through the outside layer (#2) and into the middle (#3) until it punches through the other side of the "chunnel." ;)

Thoughts? What have others done?
 
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Racer88 said:
Yeah... there are actually 3 layers: The two outer layers and the center thicker section. The photos below are an unfinished 80% frame.

View attachment 28916

So that presents a situation that is different than the other pin holes that we usually drill on an 80% frame.

With an 80% frame, on the other pin holes, we drill through a single layer on each side. But this situation with a 76% frame presents an additional challenge on this front pin hole. So, how do we approach it?

My first thought is to go through one side (#1) AND through the middle (#3) in one clean pass (hopefully). Then flip the frame and do the other outside layer (#2).

The other thought is to go through one side (#1) and part-way through the middle (#3). Then flip the frame and "meet in the middle" by going through the outside layer (#2) and into the middle (#3) until it punches through the other side of the "chunnel." ;)

Thoughts? What have others done?
Click to expand...
Finally good to see this get some attention because I haven't seen it talked about much, and yeah that second idea would likely produce the most accurate results, meeting it in the middle is likely how I'll approach it when I receive the DLD jig any day now.
 
Michele said:
He’s drilling the front pin hole that’s normally already done on a standard 80% p80. On the bridge frame no holes are pre drilled.
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Quick question on the one pinhole, the dremel stopped part way through and had to turn it up to clear it without taking it out and risking messing the hole up, although it left some wiggle room at certain angles but when the pin is fully seated its nice tight and has pressure and still has engagement with the wall of the hole, that should be fine right?
 
ItsWAWGaming said:
Quick question on the one pinhole, the dremel stopped part way through and had to turn it up to clear it without taking it out and risking messing the hole up, although it left some wiggle room at certain angles but when the pin is fully seated its nice tight and has pressure and still has engagement with the wall of the hole, that should be fine right?
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I'm not sure what this means. The bit seized up in the hole? You got it out by cranking up the Dremel? I'm surprised that worked. I would have unchucked the bit and manually "unscrewed" it with some pliers, I think.

Make sure the drill bit is chucked up tight. Then confirm it's running concentric or true (no wobble). Then, when you're ready to drill-baby-drill, crank it up to "ramming speed" (about 15k - 20k rpms, if I recall). Then make your plunge. I made a video and posted a link back in comment #43. :cool:
 
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Racer88 said:
I'm not sure what this means. The bit seized up in the hole? You got it out by cranking up the Dremel? I'm surprised that worked. I would have unchucked the bit and manually "unscrewed" it with some pliers, I think.

Make sure the drill bit is chucked up tight. Then confirm it's running concentric or true (no wobble). Then, when you're ready to drill-baby-drill, crank it up to "ramming speed" (about 15k - 20k rpms, if I recall). Then make your plunge. I made a video and posted a link back in comment #43. :cool:
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In Short, on some angles it has a little bit of wobble when the pin goes in but one axis is still solid and it seems to be under decent pressure once fully seated, requires a good push from either side to get it out, in other words theres still friction and surface engagement with the wall of the hole when the pins seated.
 
ItsWAWGaming said:
In Short, on some angles it has a little bit of wobble when the pin goes in but one axis is still solid and it seems to be under decent pressure once fully seated, requires a good push from either side to get it out, in other words theres still friction and surface engagement with the wall of the hole when the pins seated.
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If it works, it works, eh?
 
Racer88 said:
If it works, it works, eh?
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True, as long as its not like crazy loose when its fully seated I don't think you have too much to worry about typically, its not even visually noticeable too as you can see in the photos i posted. Ontop of that the slide stop lever has it under pressure on top of that when assembled too so it should be fine ultimately.
 
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Racer88 said:
Yeah... there are actually 3 layers: The two outer layers and the center thicker section. The photos below are an unfinished 80% frame.

View attachment 28916

So that presents a situation that is different than the other pin holes that we usually drill on an 80% frame.

With an 80% frame, on the other pin holes, we drill through a single layer on each side. But this situation with a 76% frame presents an additional challenge on this front pin hole. So, how do we approach it?

My first thought is to go through one side (#1) AND through the middle (#3) in one clean pass (hopefully). Then flip the frame and do the other outside layer (#2).

The other thought is to go through one side (#1) and part-way through the middle (#3). Then flip the frame and "meet in the middle" by going through the outside layer (#2) and into the middle (#3) until it punches through the other side of the "chunnel." ;)

Thoughts? What have others done?
Click to expand...
I drilled one side to about 1/2 of the solid center, flipped it over did the other side. It helps if the jig has metal inserts like the one @Benchies Go Boom offers. I made my own jig from a p80 jig inserting metal bushings so I can use it multiple times.
 
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