This has actually become my preferred method. Score the side of the tab a bit with the point and then slowly push deeper into the tab. A little clean up from the rail is all that is needed and you get a couple of "chunks" of polymer to sock away in case it is ever useful for a repair.
Appreciate the positive vibes! Speaking of drilling the holes, did you use the bits provided or smaller ones like MGB did In his video? Not super nervous about drilling the holes as long as I know I have the correct bits.Yep... just take your time. Heck, you can use a utility knife to cut the tabs, and you'll be fine. You don't have to get "fancy." But sometimes "fancy" suits your fancy! But yeah.... just go slowly and don't be in a hurry.
I've built six, so far, and the part that still makes me nervous is drilling the pin holes.
Just take the plunge, so to speak!
Thanks for joining the forum and participating by posting! When you get a chance, please write up a quick “introduction” (or RE-introduction if you were a former MGB forum member) of yourself over in the Introduce Yourself! section. Tell us about yourself, your building experience, and how you found the forum.
Jump into other threads, too! Come on in... the water's fine!
will definitely be going slow
Kit bits worked fine for me.Appreciate the positive vibes! Speaking of drilling the holes, did you use the bits provided or smaller ones like MGB did In his video? Not super nervous about drilling the holes as long as I know I have the correct bits.
I'm mechanically inclined but I def lack sanding and polishing skill so I guess this will be a good warm up.
I used the smaller bits recommended by MGB. But then you have to hand ream the 3-mm holes just a bit. I like a tight pin.
Spit on the end of it! It'll fit.
At least you don't usually bleed much when an abrasive wheel gets you.
That's exactly what I plan on doing as well. In the process of ordering a Brad point as we speak. I like it tight as well and it just makes sense.. I'll be cleaning the internals this weekend, cutting the tabs with fret cutters and sanding as well..
A little spit to make it fit
www.freedomcrewuniversity.com
If you have the flex shaft attachment for your Dremel, a sanding drum is great for taking it down real close to finished. The flex shaft allows you to bring the tool in horizontally in the channel instead of at an angle as with the Dremel itself.Got the tabs off and sanded, will probably go over em a little more tomorrow to get them more FTQ. Used fret cutters and zip hand sander...
Got a big chunk of the channel out, used a dremel and some hand files. The dremel did slip a few times and created very minimal marks. Should I be concerned about that??? Any recommendations on what to use to sand the rest of the channel down would be greatly appreciated
As mentioned in my previous post, taking the partition down as close to the surrounding plastic as you feel comforable. Then swith to the gray cratex polishing point. Use water as a sanding medium. When you're done it should look factory with no evidence the partition was even there.
Thanks for the insight, good to know and appreciate it. Definitely eases the mind
Will do thanks. Been using mineral oil as I'm sanding down.. being a little ocd, those scratches bug me and tend to get easier to happen as that channel is close to being flush
Polishing tip and water will make them disappear.
You guys really need a challenge!!!
