Tip! Alternate Tab Removal Method

I’ll clean up that post tomorrow when it will let me to edit it. Grr…
 
Racer88 said:
Best wishes for your MIL.
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Thanks ..it seems she’s being released home in a little bit and it may be her meds causing an imbalance. She’s 82 and into the 6th phase of Alzheimer’s & dementia….we’re caring for her and my wife has been here for over 3 years…first attending to her dying dad and then finding out her mom was afflicted as such. Onwards and upwards!
 
Thanks for the banner. The month is still young!! I'm not doing things much differently than some others have, as I know some score the tabs with a box cutter and then cut them off; but I've found, at least for me, cutting plastics & polymers can be a bit dicey when any degree of leverage is involved....maybe it's just me and likely is, but I really like using the top of the frame as a guide to run the saw against and keep it true as the saw is moving back & forth riding against the frae edge and no, it doesn't gall the rest of the polymer with THESE blades. The teeth do not extend outward to the sides of the blade, so it's safe to use the frame itself as a guide. Then when you get @ 3/4 thr.ough the tab, you want to avoid risking cutting into the support towers for the FLBR, and that rear fence at the back of the slide. So you take that razor blade, press it into the cut groove at a 45 degree angle and let the flat of the blade ride on the frame to keep the cut true and square as we want it. The results, at least IME, are such that I'm done looking for another way to do these. It really leaves minimal cleanup and polishing/finishing work. Now I have to cut those RSA channels and clean up the pin holes and finish the frames nice and minty-fresh like. Again I'm not saying it's right for you, but it's a home run for me and, if it helps anyone else, Praise God. I've learned so much from y'all over the last 16 mos or so. Cheers!!
 
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One Ping Only said:
Thanks for the banner. The month is still young!! I'm not doing things much differently than some others have, as I know some score the tabs with a box cutter and then then cut them off; but I've found, at least for me, cutting plastics & polymers can be a bit dicey when any degree of leverage is involved....maybe it's just me and likely is, but I really like using the top of the frame as a guide to run the saw against and keep it true as the saw is moving back & forth riding against the frae edge and no, it doesn't gall the rest of the polymer with THESE blades. The teeth do not extend outward to the sides of the blade, so it's safe to use the frame itself as a guide. Then when you get @ 3/4 thr.ough the tab, you want to avoid risking cutting into the support towers for the FLBFR, and that rear fence at the back of the slide. So you take that razor blade, press it into the cut groove at a 45 degree angle and let the flat of the blade ride on the frame to keep the cut true and square as we want it. The results, at least IME, are such that I'm done looking for another way to do these. It really leaves minimal cleanup and polishing/finishing work. Now I have to cut those RSA channels and clean up the pin holes and finish the frames nice and minty-fresh like. Again I'm not saying it's right for you, but it's a home run for me and, if it helps anyone else, Praise God. I've learned so much from y'all over the last 16 mos or so. Cheers!!
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Innovate and share! Good on ya!
 
One Ping Only said:
Thanks for the banner. The month is still young!! I'm not doing things much differently than some others have, as I know some score the tabs with a box cutter and then cut them off; but I've found, at least for me, cutting plastics & polymers can be a bit dicey when any degree of leverage is involved....maybe it's just me and likely is, but I really like using the top of the frame as a guide to run the saw against and keep it true as the saw is moving back & forth riding against the frae edge and no, it doesn't gall the rest of the polymer with THESE blades. The teeth do not extend outward to the sides of the blade, so it's safe to use the frame itself as a guide. Then when you get @ 3/4 thr.ough the tab, you want to avoid risking cutting into the support towers for the FLBR, and that rear fence at the back of the slide. So you take that razor blade, press it into the cut groove at a 45 degree angle and let the flat of the blade ride on the frame to keep the cut true and square as we want it. The results, at least IME, are such that I'm done looking for another way to do these. It really leaves minimal cleanup and polishing/finishing work. Now I have to cut those RSA channels and clean up the pin holes and finish the frames nice and minty-fresh like. Again I'm not saying it's right for you, but it's a home run for me and, if it helps anyone else, Praise God. I've learned so much from y'all over the last 16 mos or so. Cheers!!
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I've looked at a lot of methods. I think yours makes a lot of sense. Thank you for sharing it. I think I'm going to give it a shot!
 
The last one I did I tried a utility knife with a new blade in it. Kept the frame in the jig and scored the tabs a few times and they came off neat and clean. Needed a little more scraping with the blade. Comparing snips, dremel bits & file methods which I have used as well this was the quickest and cleanest way I've removed the tabs. Maybe even the most precise for me. A lot of ways to skin these "blanks". Good to still see some alternate suggestions as different tools will resonate with different folks.

Still used the dremel on the RSA channel though ;)
 
I've built somewhere around 13 p80s now and have tried all these methods and it comes down to what feels the most comfortable for you and your skills.

I like the razor blade method, its clean and you have tabs that can be melted down for repairs or for doing mod to frames of the same color.

That said I still go to my fret cutter, but I don't cut flush, I leave a little to sand off with my Micro sander and then polish. It is faster for me, and I still have the tabs for melting.

Having a Micro sander has really changed how I did thing in the beginning to now. Again, it is about how comfortable you are with the skills you have and the tools at hand.

I don't post a lot, but I do read a lot of post and it looks like there is more and more people here with very good skills and do some really good tabs and channel work.

(y) to all !!
 
Truly, it's what works best for YOU. all great ideas here...and they all work. Some just require more "work" than others to get the desired result. Now then about that dreaded RSA channel.... lol. Dremel for me, too. With a Micro sander follow-up. Or I'd go nuts. hehe
 
Racer88 said:
Oh, yeah! Admittedly, it's a "scary" way to do it. Fortunately, I've got good / steady hands. But, I should probably preface that one with, "Do not try this at home!" Ha! Though I did put "proceed at your own risk!" in the title. :outta here:
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Definitely don't drink any highly caffeinated beverages b4 hand
 
HypnoticCharm said:
Definitely don't drink any highly caffeinated beverages b4 hand
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I'm "naturally caffeinated!" Never drank a drop of coffee in my life.

Thanks for joining the forum and participating by posting! When you get a chance, please write up a quick “introduction” (or RE-introduction if you were a former MGB forum member) of yourself over in the Introduce Yourself! section. Tell us about yourself, your building experience, and how you found the forum.
Jump into other threads, too! Come on in... the water's fine! 😊
 
I found these little jewelry making cutters at Walmart. They are sharp, perfect size, easy to sharpen and remove tabs and the channel material cleanly. They are made for cutting necklace and earring wire, they cut polymer like soft cheddar cheese. Already had them, couldn't justify expense of fret cutters for two builds.
(Had to edit post, was half asleep first post, yep 3:00am working on projects instead of sleeping again. Least didn't do any Drunk Dialing to friends. lol)
 

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Nanotec-USA said:
I found these little jewelry making cutters at Walmart. They are sharp, perfect size, easy to sharpen and remove tabs and the channel material cleanly. They are made for cutting necklace and earring wire, they cut polymer like soft cheddar cheese. Already had them, couldn't justify expense of fret cutters for two builds.
(Had to edit post, was half asleep first post, yep 3:00am working on projects instead of sleeping again. Least didn't do any Drunk Dialing to friends. lol)
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Nice! Sounds like they are much sharper than the harbor freight jobbies that are of the same size and design. Good find!
 
Nanotec-USA said:
I found these little jewelry making cutters at Walmart. They are sharp, perfect size, easy to sharpen and remove tabs and the channel material cleanly. They are made for cutting necklace and earring wire, they cut polymer like soft cheddar cheese. Already had them, couldn't justify expense of fret cutters for two builds.
(Had to edit post, was half asleep first post, yep 3:00am working on projects instead of sleeping again. Least didn't do any Drunk Dialing to friends. lol)
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I think you are smart to skip the fret cutters. I got a pair and while they work, I found a sharp razor blade to do a better job on the tabs and allows for some channel removal too. Those jewerly cutters look an awful lot like the snips that came with my 3D printer. Maybe I'll need to give them a try on the next channel.
 
Nanotec-USA said:
I found these little jewelry making cutters at Walmart. They are sharp, perfect size, easy to sharpen and remove tabs and the channel material cleanly. They are made for cutting necklace and earring wire, they cut polymer like soft cheddar cheese. Already had them, couldn't justify expense of fret cutters for two builds.
(Had to edit post, was half asleep first post, yep 3:00am working on projects instead of sleeping again. Least didn't do any Drunk Dialing to friends. lol)
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I have a pair of these I use for cutting off lead that is left on a jig after molding them. They hold up good under heavy pressure and are very sharp. I never thought to try them out cutting tabs. I still use the fret cutter, I just dont cut flush with rail. This way I have a whole tab I can use for melting onto the frame if needed for frame mods or fixes.
 
Hawkeye, your comment regarding frame repair material. I used to provide plastic welding with an airless plastic welder and chemical plastic repair services to car dealerships. I used a repair system made by Polyvance (formerly Urethane Supply Company) named PlastiFix. You can fabricate missing pieces, repair mis-drilled holes, etc solid as a rock. Structural repairs, I grind up fiberglas mat then mix with the plastic repair powder. Much stronger and sets up quicker than most epoxys. Professional kit after 25 years I still have workable materials (chemicals): the blue blob is a moulding bar.
 

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Nanotec-USA said:
Hawkeye, your comment regarding frame repair material. I used to order plastic welding and chemical repair services to car dealerships. I used a repair system made by Polyvance (formerly Urethane Supply Company) named PlastiFix. You can fabricate missing pieces, repair mis-drilled holes, etc solid as a rock. Structural repairs, I grind up fiberglas mat then mix with the plastic repair powder. Much stronger and sets up quicker than most epoxys. Professional kit after 25 years I still have workable materials (chemicals): the blue blob is a moulding bar.
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WOW, This is interesting stuff !!!
Here’s Amazon products…which is the one you recommended ? Link please 😊
 
It saved a lot of rigid plastic for clients as well, I just used it to repair drill holes in one of my frames. Even fixed a broken handle on my toaster using the moulding bar ;-)
Amazon product ASIN B0007LTXVO
View: https://www.amazon.com/Polyvance-PlastiFix-Kit-Black/dp/B0007LTXVO/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?gclid=CjwKCAiAheacBhB8EiwAItVO22YA3vYDd9IAlriCurXa29fYoKxk42aMvxKdknk_cJTTSE-rKfWdKRoC0_MQAvD_BwE&hvadid=583893115832&hvdev=t&hvlocphy=9061229&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=14713672706616516883&hvtargid=kwd-94210949&hydadcr=17081_13427862&keywords=plastifix&qid=1671049856&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&smid=A3DMYIN9K0RYXC&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFOQ0MxRVM1SFZJVDUmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA4Mjc4MTUxUFdPTUJGVzVZMkxTJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAyNjg5MDYzT1RDNkw3M1ozWVdDJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
 

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