How hard IS it to build a 1911 from an 80% kit?

Also, the stealth arms instructions have you drill the sear pin hole and hammer pin hole first, and then cut the slide rails.

Is there any reason I could not do the slide rails before the drilling?
 
NavyVette said:
So, I'm finally looking for the 10-8 1911 armorer block - it's a pricy thing! You say it has "a spot to place, and file your Thumb safety" - I've seen a few people on other forums talking about that as well - is filing the thumb safety just a known part of building a 1911?

Or is it a "you might need to do this" step?

Thanks!
Click to expand...
It's a step you might need to do. Sometimes they just work. Wilson Combat Bulletproof ignition parts seem to just work.
 
NavyVette said:
Also, the stealth arms instructions have you drill the sear pin hole and hammer pin hole first, and then cut the slide rails.

Is there any reason I could not do the slide rails before the drilling?
Click to expand...
No. It doesn't matter. But, you'll have to clean the jig up before drilling the holes....chips and oil, which you'll have to do anyway. But, if the holes are already drilled, you'll be done and you can disassemble and clean.
 
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CECannonJr said:
No. It doesn't matter. But, you'll have to clean the jig up before drilling the holes....chips and oil, which you'll have to do anyway. But, if the holes are already drilled, you'll be done and you can disassemble and clean.
Click to expand...
Thanks!

I wasn't thinking about the cleaning, but I'd be doing that anyway.
My thinking was I could do the rails and seat this winter in my basement and then in the spring, or a day at least above freezing I could take the frames to the shop to do the holes.
 
I have built 2, and they both needed the thumb safety to be filed. I did the first one by hand, without the block, and it came out fine. Its just a matter of keeping the same angle and filing and fitting every few passes with the file. The block is a no brainer. It holds the safety and you pretty much just follow the angle of the block. I have looked at a bunch of builds for the 1911, and I have yet to see one that works out of the box, and everything I've seen states the same thing. It definitely seems like part of the build.
 
NavyVette said:
Hello,

I'm looking at a few kits from US Patriot Armory and over on 1911Forum they make it sound like you need a full machine shop and even then you probably cannot do it.

Thanks
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Just noticed no one mentioned the easy way to do steel frames. You absolutely don’t need a machine shop, you need a frame from 1911builders, a jig from matrix precision, as well as a rail cutter from matrix precision. I have built 2 this way, and it’s a breeze. Many people do the final fitment of rails using a stone jig that I also purchased, but tbh the rail cutter can be very precise when a good caliper is used (my Lyman dial caliper and very minute adjustment of the rail cutter let me cut my rails EXACTLY on the second frame, and the stone jig was unnecessary).

There are directions and a helpful worksheet on 1911builders’ site.

They expect you to be using tools from Matrix Precision.
 
RagnoROOK said:
Just noticed no one mentioned the easy way to do steel frames. You absolutely don’t need a machine shop, you need a frame from 1911builders, a jig from matrix precision, as well as a rail cutter from matrix precision. I have built 2 this way, and it’s a breeze. Many people do the final fitment of rails using a stone jig that I also purchased, but tbh the rail cutter can be very precise when a good caliper is used (my Lyman dial caliper and very minute adjustment of the rail cutter let me cut my rails EXACTLY on the second frame, and the stone jig was unnecessary).

There are directions and a helpful worksheet on 1911builders’ site.

They expect you to be using tools from Matrix Precision.
Click to expand...
Thanks!
 
clm2112 said:
With an aluminum frame, it isn't hard. The jigs that work like a woodworking plane to cut the slide rails work because the aluminum cuts easily in thin slices.

With a steel frame, well, think milling machine. That is how I made mine, on a mill using keyway cutters, custom mill bit, and common end mill bits.

It also helps to have a working 1911 that you can measure and compare to as you sneek up on the final dimensions. (it is kinda surprising to amount of hand fitting all the parts of a 1911 take.)

Some photos of my build... setting up the frame in the mill, checking parts interchange with the reference pistol (a Rock Island M1911) and the finished frame on a Mech-Tech CCU. As you can see from the date stamps in the photos, the entire process took a month to complete.
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F'n Awesome
 
Wanted to give this thread a bump as im looking to go down the 1911 80% road. Ive already done a bundle of Ar's and Glocks might as well go at 1911's.

Being a lot of this thread is old any new suppliers or go to resources. Any new jigs etc. Seems the Steel is a bit harder to build which makes sense but having rails made of aluminum kinda makes me wonder about longevity. I have a mill and most tooling so if its a must to use a mill im fine. Heck either way with aluminum or whatever im using my mill.

Jigs have me scratching my head a bit. Seems there are multiple jigs needed maybe ?? Also seems you need a functioning 1911 to use as a reference which I dont. Jigs also seem a bit pricey but maybe I dont need everything I keep reading about.

Anyways this thread was a bit long in the tooth so figured I would see if there was any additional info. Wish there were some videos going step by step.
 
The Phantom Jig should be the only jig needed - if you are doing steel you will probably need multiple cutters though.
www.stealtharms.net

1911 Phantom Jig - Stealth Arms

Stealth Arms 1911 Phantom Jig
www.stealtharms.net www.stealtharms.net

Of course, if you are using your own mill you have no need for a jig :)

I've seen the advice to compare to an existing 1911, but I think using the 1911 reference drawings, along with your kit parts should work well.

I used US Patriot Armory for my kits and frames

1911 Build Kits: Your Journey to a Custom Firearm

Step into the world of 1911 customization. Our Builders Kits are your canvas. Create a masterpiece, a 1911 that’s truly yours.
uspatriotarmory.com uspatriotarmory.com

80% 1911 Frames

uspatriotarmory.com uspatriotarmory.com
 
NavyVette said:
The Phantom Jig should be the only jig needed - if you are doing steel you will probably need multiple cutters though.
www.stealtharms.net

1911 Phantom Jig - Stealth Arms

Stealth Arms 1911 Phantom Jig
www.stealtharms.net www.stealtharms.net

Of course, if you are using your own mill you have no need for a jig :)

I've seen the advice to compare to an existing 1911, but I think using the 1911 reference drawings, along with your kit parts should work well.

I used US Patriot Armory for my kits and frames

1911 Build Kits: Your Journey to a Custom Firearm

Step into the world of 1911 customization. Our Builders Kits are your canvas. Create a masterpiece, a 1911 that’s truly yours.
uspatriotarmory.com uspatriotarmory.com

80% 1911 Frames

uspatriotarmory.com uspatriotarmory.com
Click to expand...
I have not had a chance to review the schematic but does it give enough detail to be able to drill any holes etc. Or would you still need a jig for drill placement ? I could see a jig be worth it for just that as setup to accurately place holes could be a major PITA. Now slides with a key cutter probably not so much.

OF course im saying all this without reviewing the drawing or ever done it. Or ever watching any videos where they complete one step by step. If anyone knows of any full vids out there please let me know
 
This video might show how to use the jig all the way through
gunstreamer.com

Stealth Arms 1911 80% Phantom Jig

Here is a review of a Stealth Arms 1911 Phantom Jig. Got an 80% 1911 aluminum frame? No mill? No problem. These cutters can also cut steel. Check out my other video on results of cutting a steel frame. Stealth Arms have
gunstreamer.com gunstreamer.com

I don't have access to the drawings right now, but I would not know if they are good enough :)
 
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