Tip! Alternate Tab Removal Method

[brian]

I believe he used the cutter shown in the OP:

Thanks. I saw that and called it a router bit so wasn't sure if "cut" meant the same thing. I used the same one with the same result.

 

[Franky23]

I used the Dremel to start and remove 98% of the channel block. Then I go to the "Micro-Sander." After than... rubber points.

Here's video of how I do it. Skip up to 6:36.

View: https://rumble.com/vs3e16-using-a-micro-sander-for-p80-frame-and-channel-finishing.html?mref=wdrri&mc=9kvnk

Hi Racer88 I commented on another post where you showed this oscillating tool
Do you have a link where do you get this exact one?

Scratch that I never was alerted that you replied to my other comment
Appreciate you sending me that link

 

[One Ping Only]

Nice video on that, and nice work! That micro sander is indispensable regarding these projects.

While making prior comments about the "FTQ" phrase, I was raised with the mindset and ethic that you do it right the first time, and your work is a reflection of who you are. No, I don't drive around with my hood up for all too see, but having said that, I don't want something that looks like Billy-Bob's backwoods hack job, or like the set of a haunted house, lol. Aspire to have it look "factory issue", if not better. It can look like a beauty queen on the outside, but is it a freak show inside when you remove the slide? Work ethic, ability, and the right tools for the right job all work together. Small details can make huge differences, too. Nice demo, Racer88. I need to get some of those rubber green tips for a little finesse.

 

[One Ping Only]

FWIW, I'm about to do a few sets of frame rail removals and I think I want to try something different for the removal. Maybe an x-acto saw?

 

[Racer88]

FWIW, I'm about to do a few sets of frame rail removals and I think I want to try something different for take removal. Maybe an x-acto saw?

Try it!

 

[One Ping Only]

Try it!

I just got one coming from Cram-a-thon. Thanks! I'll obviously have to cut those off, with the frame out of the jig so I'll have no guide. I'll figure out something to keep from any undue carnage...that other saw set looks real nifty but it seems the blades are pretty/too flexible. Hmmm.

 

[One Ping Only]

Ok... X-acto Razor saw set is a WIN. I made a mistake on one of the tabs I cut, and have to fix it (superglue?) but overall, this is my new preferred method of tab removal thus far for the P80 frames. I learned that no matter the tab cut, keeping the saw parallel to the frame side (and not 90 degrees) is always the best policy, and you can easily trim the last bit of inside ear of the tab that's dangling, as you want to miss the integral supports and towers cast into the polymer, etc. My goof was making one rear tab cut at a 90-degree angle to the frame. (doh! live and learn....and glue & fix.)

Yup, I have to glue that dog-ear back down & fix it. Aside from that blunder, I really like the X-Acto razor saw approach for this....quite a bit faster and creates a clean cut with far less to clean-up after the cut, vs grinding, etc. YMMV, but it worked for me.

 

[One Ping Only]

BTW, as I was making that 90 cut on that back tab, I knew better than that and stopped but the owie already had been made. human condition and all that....

 

[One Ping Only]

"Right now, Admiral Tupolev is removing the safeties on all his torpedoes. He won't make that same mistake again."

 

[Michele]

Use epoxy sir, superglue doesn’t stick well to polymer unless you add baking soda to the mix

 

[One Ping Only]

Use epoxy sir, superglue doesn’t stick well to polymer unless you add baking soda to the mix

Thanks, Michele! You answered my unspoken next question.

 

[One Ping Only]

Michele- do you have a favorite brand of epoxy? I'm thinking black-colored would be the first logical point, but...

Ok so I de-tabbed a few frames last night in succession and I think I have a system using the X-Acto razor saw...hardly any cleanup is required where the tabs were, just a tad of finishing finesse. I first cut the tabs, sawing parallel to the frame sides, using the frame rail as a fence/guide, and I saw about 3/4 the way through the tab, then I take a razor blade for a box cutter (without the handle, just the blade) and cut-through the rest of the tab by hand.

And resist to cut those rear tabs 90 degrees (ie front to back) of the frame. You'll get in deep bandini quick as I did in my first round. Always saw the tabs on the sides of the frame....you won't damage the frame rails using them as a fence or guide to keep your cut true with these saw blades.

You also have to be careful not to cut into the cast polymer supports that remain, thus not cutting more than 3/4 the way into them. Cut through the remaining material with the razor blade using the frame rails as a guide to keep you true. I was tempted to use a regular x-acto knife for these separating cuts of tab material, but again, just using the blade itself by had gives you more control, and less room for error. Blade handles = leverage, and you can have the job go sideways real quick if you're not careful.

Anyways, use a bare box cutter blade. Just edge along the side of the frame rail as a guide, and cut that tab off, then when your ready for finishing, have at it for that quality finish. I wish I had another one to do, it's borderline fun (it's so gratifying after the other more tedious methods!)...now if only we could develop a similar approach to clearing the RSA channel. And I don't think anything but a Dremel will suffice there, sadly.

In this overly verbose post I do hope I communicated this clearly and hopefully will help others avoid a few errors; and it's really a very simple job. Cut through the tabs from the side 3/4 of the way deep, and then cut them off by hand using a bare box cutter blade. Done. I love it. Hope this helps someone else, as the experiment has helped me. Now i want to order another frame.....heeharrhee....

 

[Racer88]

I first cut the tabs, sawing parallel to the frame sides, using the frame rail as a fence/guide, and I saw about 3/4 the way through the tab, then I take a razor blade for a box cutter (without the handle, just the blade) and cut-through the rest of the tab by hand.

And resist to cut those rear tabs 90 degrees (ie front to back) of the frame. You'll get in deep bandini quick as I did in my first round. Always saw the tabs on the sides of the frame....you won't damage the frame rails using them as a fence or guide to keep your cut true with these saw blades.

I'm not sure I'm following your description of the technique as it relates to the angle / approach of the saw in relation to the frame. Can you post a photo?

 

[One Ping Only]

Well, just lay the frame on its side, and take your razor saw and cut straight into the tabs at their base, using the frame rail as a fence to ride the saw blade up against as you're cutting. Oh and, do one tab at a time, and resist the urge to cut both the F and R tab in the same cutting swath.
I don't have a pic now but will try and stage a demo pic later and post it.

 

[One Ping Only]

BTW, I do NOT use the jig for these cuts whatsoever. The frame is out, and held by hand on the mat on the worktable.

 

[Code_Name_Eric]

I believe this is the recommended epoxy:
Amazon product ASIN B0006O1ICE
View: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006O1ICE?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
I do not believe it dries black, but I'm not entirely sure. I have, in the past, for other applications, mixed black mica powder into clear epoxy for a black finish.

Amazon product ASIN B09CTHFSBW
View: https://www.amazon.com/Epoxy-Resin-Dye-Powder-Pigment/dp/B09CTHFSBW/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2JCYQLENZHDFX&keywords=black+mica+powder+for+epoxy+resin&qid=1662068225&sprefix=black+mica+powder+for+epoxy+resin%2Caps%2C111&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzRldVMk1DSDJHRUhJJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDU3MDcxMkE0WE9STEdHSlAzVyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwOTI2NjQxM0IzU1YwUzI4TlA4USZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

 

[Michele]

@One Ping Only
A few phots of your technique, procedure and tools would be very helpful in us "getting the Picture" of your operation.

Know u did ask but for glue, Id suggest the stuff Lone wolf recommends for their builds. Its recently been posted on the Freedom Wolf thread.

Epoxy- 2 part only. The black JB weld that Eric linked is good for black. Quick 1 and 5 min epoxy is not as strong as the slow curing…check the knife makers forums or recommend epoxy they use high quality products that can take heat and various stressors.
Plastic bonder is not really epoxy IMO

 

[One Ping Only]

Family emergency....my MIL just face-planted into her (late) brunch plate who we've been caring for. EMT's just got here and they are taking her to the local hospital, Be back when I can. Would appreciate any prayers. The EMT's just said she's responsive, as they are now leaving for the hospital. Thanks, beloved peeps. And thanks for the tips!!

 

[Racer88]

Family emergency....my MIL just face-planted into her (late) brunch plate who we've been caring for. EMT's just got here and they are taking her to the local hospital, Be back when I can. Would appreciate any prayers. The EMT's just said she's responsive, as they are now leaving for the hospital. Thanks, beloved peeps. And thanks for the tips!!

Best wishes for your MIL.

 

[One Ping Only]

Thanks Racer88. Here are a few pics while I wait..

First, you want to saw like this with the blade flush with the frame:

I’m using these two tools for the tab cutting and removal:

So I’m cutting the tabs, one by one, with the saw flush against the top of the frame as a guide as seen two photos above.
And after cutting into the tab no more than 3/4 of the way deep of the thickness of the tab, I use the box cutter blade by hand to cut through the remaining material; again using the top of the frame as a guide:

Do NOT cut the rear tabs using the saw at a 90 degree angle like this, as you will have issues. Use the lip of the top of the frame as a guide, sawing parallel with the length of the frame. Don’t do this:

I’m sorry, but I have no 80% frames that still have the tabs unremoved to use in these photo demos. Gotta go. But I hope this helps